So I brought the van back to Texas. Noticed a diesel leak so fixing that. Bought oring kit and took out turbo and fuel bowl. Replaced all orings and ready to reinstall and put all fuel line sleeves back on and get her running . I took it to a shop and they quoted 2000$ for rear brakes . Even though I only really needed driver side caliper and rotor and both sides pads.
They want me to get a crank shaft sensor... cam shaft? Saying that'll keep my car from ideling and dying out. Told them never had that problem.
Then about the leak . So about 800$ for breaks and sensor and 1200$ to fix drain valve leak . And passenger fuel line.
I've about got it done just need to remove fuel line and inspect it for wear near the bracket that's holds it maybe clean it off look for rust...
I'm not sure if they meant it was leaking near fitting to head near back of motor or fitting to fuel bowl or line itself.
Also new . Stp air filters . 20$ Duralast fuel filter 30$
Next time you have a fuel (or any other type of oil based product) add some of this stuff. The leak will scream out it's location under black light. No more guessing.
Next time you have a fuel (or any other type of oil based product) add some of this stuff. The leak will scream out it's location under black light. No more guessing.
I'll give it a shot.... so I have the turbo off. Put a little tape wadd inside the 2 holes on the top of the turbo pedestal. One hole had an oring . The other was just a metal hole. The turbo has holes on the bottom and they line up once turbo is installed..
if a tap wadd fell into the hole that didn't have an oring what would happen. Or if I lost that oring for the second hole how to get a new one? Online , autozone?
Petty much any autoparts store should have O rings, A bigger problem is a lost tape wad. I'd try to find it before I did anything else. I have a very small bore scope that works great for looking down holes or other places you can't see, cuz that tape could create bigger problems than what you already have.
I had to go to ford for the turbo pedestal orings I needed. 6$ a peice. Also got a passenger side fuel line for 80$. Installed all new orings on the fuel bowl. Was getting all the lines back one and connected . Broke the threads off my fuel pressure regulator into 5/16 line. Had to take off mounting brakes and belt and undo brakes that holds two lines together coming off near the bowl by the fpr. Waiting on new fuel pressure regulator . Have to snake out line to get the aluminum fpr threads out of the nut and reinstall everything to get it going....
On mine I found that if the side door is opened with the key in the ignition power still goes through a timer even after the door is closed....draining power
To fix this I disconnected the wires on both the side and rear cargo doors......took 4 hours with a 26 page wiring diagram to figure it out
Haven't removed butterfly yet, removed ebps heard it could start without it and then you would know to replace that sensor. Also thinking of cleaning that tube connected to ebps. Wondering if since vechile is from California there's also some kind of extra emissions ebp agenda taking place making these codes go off ... I'll try to find a fuse diagram ?
Linear Mode
