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Old 06-13-2022, 06:10 PM   #11
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Leaking trans cooler makes more of a strawberry milkshake rather than banana shake. That looks like it might be engine oil in there.

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Old 06-13-2022, 06:53 PM   #12
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Yeah I think your right carringb. Man this is taking a little wind out of my sail. Thanks guys for all of your replies.
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Old 06-13-2022, 07:53 PM   #13
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You’re temps don’t suggest a plugged engine oil cooler. It’s likely a bad or unseated o-ring on said cooler. Of course… sucks to get to. I think you would have other symptoms if it were a head gasket.
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Old 06-13-2022, 08:44 PM   #14
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Yeah i agree carringb.
If I get to the oil cooler I'm going to go ahead and replace/upgrade it. Im going to start diagnosing/disassembling tomorrow afternoon. Does anyone have any experience with the Bullet Proof Diesel Air to Oil cooler system?

Bad luck is going around today.
My Buddies 2500 duramax which was the back up plan to the bus for our upcoming Tennessee trip. Went into the shop today for electrical issues.
My dad's 2021 2500 cummins (back up for the backup). Went into the shop today and was diagnosed with having a failed turbo. Only 4 turbos in the country according to Dodge.
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Old 06-13-2022, 10:18 PM   #15
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The bulletproof oil cooler doesn’t really fit in the E-series. And IMO, not necessary. The stock cooler is efficient, it’s Achilles was its propensity to plug with casting sand (which was an issue for earlier motors) or coolant tapioca (using green or mixing in green coolant which polymerizes in the EGR cooler). Failed -o-rings are not actually common. The air-to-oil cooler might have issues cooling enough at low speeds, unless you have it a dedicated fan. The normal mointing place is inside an aftermarket bumper, since there’s no space in the grill.
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Old 06-14-2022, 09:55 PM   #16
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I have a bpd oil cooler on my van. As carringb points out they donít fit. Mine is mounted below my aluminess front bumper on a custom bracket. It was in the winch box when I got the van. The radiator change out made a good bit of difference for my van. I bought the performance aluminum one. I have a tru cool tranny cooler with the big pan and my temps never get over 190 even towing loads over giant passes. Day in day out tranny is 165-175.
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Old 06-15-2022, 07:55 PM   #17
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Im tearing this thing down and doing everything at the same time. So far this is where I'm at.

Ordered a Mishimoto MMTS-F2D-03CL Low Temp Thermostat
Called Mishimoto and they said they don't make a radiator for mine so still trying to figure out a better radiator.
Most likely will just order a Ford oem newer styler cooler
Dieselsite Coolant filter
Delete the Cat

Im still trying to nail down a transmission cooler. I don't have a lot of room up front but I do under the body. I'm considering the Derale 40 Row Hyper-Cool with -8an lines. This would allow me to remove the front transmission aux (freeing up a little air for the radiator) and take the lines out out the radiator cool side. Hopefully reducing the ECT.

What do you guys think?
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Old 06-15-2022, 08:33 PM   #18
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You should reach out for member UNRENG. he recently installed a Derale 65840 Trans cooler w/fan, and from what he's relayed to me he's very happy with the results - I'm encouraged and now also considering this myself.
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Old 06-19-2022, 11:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullfrog View Post
Im tearing this thing down and doing everything at the same time. So far this is where I'm at.

Ordered a Mishimoto MMTS-F2D-03CL Low Temp Thermostat
Called Mishimoto and they said they don't make a radiator for mine so still trying to figure out a better radiator.
Most likely will just order a Ford oem newer styler cooler
Dieselsite Coolant filter
Delete the Cat

Im still trying to nail down a transmission cooler. I don't have a lot of room up front but I do under the body. I'm considering the Derale 40 Row Hyper-Cool with -8an lines. This would allow me to remove the front transmission aux (freeing up a little air for the radiator) and take the lines out out the radiator cool side. Hopefully reducing the ECT.

What do you guys think?

I would highly recommend IPR’s High-Flow Coolant filter. I just had an oil cooler go out also and the radiator fluid was all full of oil. Vince from IPR is super helpful and I will tell you that the filter is pulling all kinds of Rust, sand and debris. I was shocked because I had thought ever since I put a new Long block in that these issues would disappear, but obviously not.

I would also recommend doing the “Blue Wire Mod” on your 6.0 Fan clutch wire, which basically grounds the unit and allows you to “manually” kick on the Clutch fan. I had the 7.3 manual clutch fan and took it off to do this mod.

https://www.iprresearch.com/IPR-High...-Manifold.html

https://www.iprresearch.com/Ford-6.0...er-Screen.html
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Old 07-06-2022, 06:31 AM   #20
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Im thinking next upgrades will be:
Larger aux transmission cooler
Bullet Proof Diesel 6.0L to 7.3L fan Conversion
Coolant Filter
I only have 1 transmission filter (in the pan) so I might add a aux one

Questions:
1) Is my goal achievable (towing 10K)? Yes
2) Should I bypass the radiator portion of my transmission cooler and just run the large aux cooler? Other forums state that there appears to be no noticeable difference but very few people have actually tested this and posted results. The radiator connection does help to warm the transmission oil in colder temps...but a trans cooler with thermostat would also solve this potential issue
3) Any problems with the listed upgrades? Not sure about the BPD fan stuff
4) Do I need to add anything else to that list? Performance Radiator?

Those temps appear to be within spec for a stock cooling system.

One thing you may wish to do is flush the ford gold coolant and install ELC coolant. It's not easy, but well worth the peace of mind.

We went a different route than the masses for a transmission cooler because there was room available in the aluminess bumper and the BTU cooling capacity is really high (95k for the 11-row and 125k for the 18-row...the tru-cool is 45k BTU).

https://derale.com/product-footer/fl...-fluid-coolers

If this is an option for you, buy the cooler+fan setup (part 65840 or 65860) since derale doesn't sell the shroud+fan's separately and making a shroud isn't easy.

The derale has inlet+outlet ports (7/8 o-ring) that are more adaptable to customization than coolers with hose barbs or specialty threads.

For a 2010 engine, not sure the coolant filter is as necessary as earlier years.

The BPD air-to-oil cooler does work, but the money spent may buy more parts to help the overall vehicle more than just the oil+coolant systems.

We also modified the oiling system that has its own oil cooler to help keep temps in check.

There are a bunch of other mods we've done that have helped with cooling - search the "what did you do..." thread for more.

We run a hot tune - QTA Looney - and watch EGT's on hard acceleration and with all of the upgrades we've done, the max spread between EOT and ECT on a long incline on a warm day (90-degrees) going 70-75mph on a lifted van with 37-inch tires is about 5-degrees (I-80 east on donner summit).

When we bought the van in 2018 with a stock engine and no tuning, driving up the grapevine (I-5 north in southern california) produced delta's of 30-40 degrees because of the sub-par oem cooling system (the cooling fan would activate and reduce coolant temps much faster than oil temps).
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