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Old 01-07-2019, 10:00 AM   #11
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,307
First a good place to start for understanding RV systems can be found in these links.The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1 ) ; The 12volt Side of Life (Part 2 )

A good start would be a Battery to Battery charger instead of a separator/isolator, my current recommendation would be the:

KISAE DMT1230 Abso 30A DC-DC Battery Charger or KISAE DMT1250 Abso 50A DC-DC Battery Charger These are both battery to battery chargers with a built in solar controller. The difference between the two is $100.00 ($249.00 to $349.00) . The 50 amp version would give you more options if you're rig is capable. The goal is to match alternator and what the size of your house battery bank is. These an additional temperature sensor and match up well to the Transit CCP point.

This would take the place of an isolator/separator, it would bring a 3 stage charger, and a solar controller. As you're roof would taken up by your toys, a portable panel setup would work great. Member Twoxentrix posted this link in another thread : Lensun 100W 160W 200W 12V Portable Folding ETFE Solar Panel for Camping Van, RVs This does not provide emergency jump start option as a Blue Sea 7622 would provide, but I haven't used that option my rig in 15 years.

For plug in power would recommend

KISAE AC1240 Abso 40A, 12V Battery Charger or KISAE AC1260 Abso 60A, 12V Battery Charger Again the larger unit gives you mare capability to match the charge rate to you battery bank size. Both units support a temperature sensor, for charger accuracy, and can charge a secondary battery bank such as your starter while plugged in.

And last I would recommend a good battery monitor:

Again my current recommendation would be the:
Balmar SG200 battery monitor
This battery monitor provides the most accurate and simplest SOC monitor, while also provide current usage data. The amp counting capabilities will allow you to better understand your daily current usage.

Without knowing your AC needs it would be hard to offer up an inverter option. I generally would think that a small 12 volt footprint would mean a small AC footprint, something in the 400 to 600 watt rage might work out out.

Pair the above units with an AGM battery and you start your minimalist setup. The battery monitor will allow you to collect data, and see if you need a larger battery bank in the future.


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Old 01-13-2019, 04:09 PM   #12
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 4
Solar suitcase

Originally Posted by REF View Post
Ya, Iíd highly recommend a suitcase panel, I got one of these with the built in controller when it was on sale for another application. Turns out I donít need it, new in box, $120+shipping.
Or order it....
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Foldable Portable Solar Suitcase with Voyager Waterproof Charge Controller
Also pick up one of these sidewall ports for plugging in
Toeduk Solar Weatherproof SAE Socket sidewall Port,SAE Waterproof Quick Connect Panel Mount
And a length of extension cable
WindyNation 10 Gauge 10 AWG One Pair 20 Feet Black + 20 Feet Red Solar Panel Extension Cable Wire MC4 Connector
Pick up a good AGM deep cycle battery, mount it somewhere, even inside as AGMís do not off gas, hook it up, good to go.

I will buy the solar suitcase if it still available.

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Old 01-14-2019, 06:43 AM   #13
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: St. Petersburg, Florida
Posts: 68
We use a 140w roof solar panel w/adjustable volt regulator, a group 31 house battery, separator for house battery to alternator with manual switch. This runs a 3.6 cu.ft. Fridge, lights and water pump. The ability to charge three different ways is the key to camping anywhere! The single battery and solar panel will run the fridge during the day while charging up the battery for overnight use and then some. During our two month travels every summer we do not stop at campgrounds very often except to give the battery a good deep charge. This system work exceptionally well for us. Simple, cheap, never been without power.
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:01 PM   #14
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 9
Thanks everyone for the great advice. The heart of the system is the house battery. I'm not sure the amp hours of the stock Transit battery under the seat but an educated guess is that it is 70 or 75 and I believe it is an AGM. Does my house battery need to match the amp hours of stock battery if I use the battery to battery or a separator? If they don't have to match I think 100 amp hours or more would better. BTW if anyone knows for sure what the stock 2018 350 XLT Ford Transit battery is for the 3.5 eb I would appreciate knowing.
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Old 02-02-2019, 06:09 AM   #15
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 9,837
Group 48 760 CCA, 70ah and AGM,battery,2476

Lots and lots of info on Transits on the Transit USA forum. Also lots of jerks. Have fun.

I found the chassis battery on my Transit to be pretty robust but I added a Blue Sea 7610 isolator and 2 golf cart batteries (200ah) for my needs. It was ideal to run the full house but of course they didn't fit under the seat. I put a diesel furnace under my seat by my battery.


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