1991 Dodge B250? What Should I Look for?

[VanLifeDreams]

So I've found some information about a basic checklist for buying a used van. Obviously check

Brakes rotors
Leaks
Rust/frame
Operation of engine/vehicle temp when I arrive
Transmission operation
Fluids
Tires
Pop up seal/canvas condition
Broken or missing components

The van I am looking at is a 1991 Dodge B250. I could not find any specific posts on that van, any help there? It has 169,000 miles, mostly highway miles. Driven in no winters (except for Alaska twice). It's got everything, propane, pop top, awning, swivel seat, fold down bed, sink, lots of storage, leisure battery, etc.

My question is... Is there anything model specific that I should be checking for? Thanks for the help

[Pntyrmvr]

Battery tray and inner wheelhousing beneath it will be rotted out from battery acid.

It’s a unibody vehicle so check all the suspension mounting areas for rot and cracks.

The strut rod bushings will be shot and not look bad. Replace them with factory or Moog pieces only. Install exactly as instructed.

If rad is not plastic and aluminum replace it.

Timing chain on small block Chryslers is very long and prone to stretching. Replace it with a Hughes engines’ deburred unit and run the V6 Magnum engine chain tensioner.

Front brake pads start to rattle over time on unpaved roads. Beat the ears of the pads over HARD with a hammer.

Replace the rear end lube. No one ever does and the rear axle gets noisy.

Watch your weight. Fully converted 3/4 tons are almost always over their legal gross when loaded and ready for a trip.

If the alternator goes use a very high quality reman unit and check the output at idle. The internal parts on Mopar alts are very close in size and shape and regularly get mismatched by rebuilders. There is an adjustable voltage regulator on the market that fits and helps boost the idle voltage.

Exterior rear view mirrors have a clip in them that breaks and the damn thing folds in when you slam the door.

When the key is first turned to “run” the check engine light comes on as a test of the light’s function. The day it doesn’t replace the pcm/ computer. It’s toast.

Turning the key to run then off to run to off to run should cycle the pcm code reading feature. Handy when diagnosing gremlins.

Best wishes.

I own 7 of them... including a ‘91.




"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

[VanLifeDreams]

Sweet thanks I went and looked at it again today. It all looks great, starts right up. Small amounts of rust than can be addressed. I will check all of those spots especially where suspension mounts and where the uni body connects. I can weld but Id rather not have to...

If all is well, is 3500 a good deal? They are allowing me to do payments.

[Pntyrmvr]

Peanuts.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

[SMB OCD]

I'm in the Northeast and have a 1994 Dodge B350 RB SMB. Here in the Northeast the older Dodge vans are notorious for rotted frames on the front horns, around the steering box. Also check passenger side.

[BrianW]

$3500? The top alone is probably worth $1500-2000 if you pull it off and sell it. $3500 is cheap if it doesn’t need much.

[VanLifeDreams]

Thats what I'm saying Brian. I've payed 1000 down on it, I checked over it all, its minnnnnt. 2 owners, well serviced. 169k there is STRICTLY surface rust. The battery tray isn't even rotted out. It's got the flip over bed, and the single door in the back, I'm told its rare. I'm getting a great deal, I'd pay 3 grand easy if it didn't have a motor in it... I'm pumped. No cracks in the frame, bushing will need replacing.

[Ohiocampervan]

You will have to post photos, we also own a 91 Dodge B250 Sportsmobile. great van! our has also been to Alaska and 48 other states.

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by Pntyrmvr

Battery tray and inner wheelhousing beneath it will be rotted out from battery acid.

It’s a unibody vehicle so check all the suspension mounting areas for rot and cracks.

The strut rod bushings will be shot and not look bad. Replace them with factory or Moog pieces only. Install exactly as instructed.

If rad is not plastic and aluminum replace it.

Timing chain on small block Chryslers is very long and prone to stretching. Replace it with a Hughes engines’ deburred unit and run the V6 Magnum engine chain tensioner.

Front brake pads start to rattle over time on unpaved roads. Beat the ears of the pads over HARD with a hammer.

Replace the rear end lube. No one ever does and the rear axle gets noisy.

Watch your weight. Fully converted 3/4 tons are almost always over their legal gross when loaded and ready for a trip.

If the alternator goes use a very high quality reman unit and check the output at idle. The internal parts on Mopar alts are very close in size and shape and regularly get mismatched by rebuilders. There is an adjustable voltage regulator on the market that fits and helps boost the idle voltage.

Exterior rear view mirrors have a clip in them that breaks and the damn thing folds in when you slam the door.

When the key is first turned to “run” the check engine light comes on as a test of the light’s function. The day it doesn’t replace the pcm/ computer. It’s toast.

Turning the key to run then off to run to off to run should cycle the pcm code reading feature. Handy when diagnosing gremlins.

Best wishes.

I own 7 of them... including a ‘91.




"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

Damn dude, you need to switch over to Fords! That's 12 problems! Fords only have 11.

[N.V.]

[QUOTE=Pntyrmvr;217568]Battery tray and inner wheelhousing beneath it will be rotted out from battery acid.

I know this is an old thread but I'm hoping you'll be notified of my response. Given the number of Dodge vans you own, you might be just the person to answer my question... I sure hope so!

I own an 1991 Dodge B350 Wagon, and over years the battery tray has rotted out, just as you advised. My question is, what's the best way to address this? I called around to some junk yards, thinking I could simply locate the part and have it pulled, but two different yards I talked to said these trays are welded in and can't be unbolted... could that possibly be correct?!

My van currently has a battery in it so I can't really see how the tray is attached... only that it is clearly failing as the battery (and tray) seem to have dropped. It hasn't seemed to affect operation of the van, but the battery is no longer holding a charge and I need to have it replaced. I imagine any service provider will hesitate to install a new battery if the tray is seriously rotted.

Since it sounds like you've faced this problem before, do you have any suggestions for the best way to deal with it?

Many thanks in advance!