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Old 10-21-2022, 04:38 PM   #1
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Alaska Planning Help Needed

I am in the planning stages of putting together a trip to Alaska this summer for 5 weeks beginning early July. I am starting with planning the trip north first. Once this is dialed in, I will plan the route back home to Idaho. I have been scouring the internet, trip reports here and elsewhere, iOverlander, etc., and have a good framework but I need to start putting in the details.

I don't need to have a rigid itinerary but would like to have some awesome remote/boondock campsites in the back pocket if you are willing to share. I am hoping to get some suggestions from our experienced AK members.
Please send me a PM if you would rather not share locations to the world.

Here is a link to the planned route north. https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/ed...30&usp=sharing

Some background: I am willing/able and enjoy getting off the beaten path. I love to fish so streamside and lakeside camp spots are at the top of the list. I have an EB50, Quigly 4x4, locking diff and 33" AT tires, winch, recovery gear, etc. so I'm ok with getting off-road but nothing too crazy with this 11k lb. beast. There will be a second vehicle in our party (Toyota Tundra) that can back each other up if something goes sideways off-road.

Planning to be in AK in July? Let me know an maybe we can meet up.

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Old 10-24-2022, 01:14 PM   #2
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I have driven to Alaska more times than I can remember, most recently about a month ago. Boondocking on the way there is a lot like it is in Baja, that's to say there is pretty much an unlimited number of possibilitys. As long as your not near any big towns or citys, it's pretty much wide open. Personally, I don't do much planning, I prefer to just see how the day unfolds. When I start getting tired, I'll begin checking out any dirt road that leads into the woods, along with checking them out on a map. I also like driving up to microwave sites because they are normally on the highest peaks around and the view from there will be great. I use several different mapping programs as each one seems to have slightly different information. I use Gaia, You need a map, Scenic map Canada, I overlander, and Google earth, all displayed on my console mounted Ipad. I know this doesn't answer your question about specific locations but I find spur of the moment spots work best for me. A copy of the Milepost is a good idea and will have far more information than you can use in addition to the easiest map to use for planning.
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Old 10-24-2022, 01:42 PM   #3
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I agree with @arctictraveller, no need to overplan for boondocking sites as they are just about everywhere. While some more touristy areas like Valdez and Seward have cracked-down in town, you can still find free places nearby (like off the Valdez airport road back by the glacier). There was a pretty good thread a year or so ago with the same sort of question and lots of advice, so do some creative keyword searching and you should find it. I had good luck with iOverlander, supplemented by Allstays too (although iOverlander was better for out of the way spots). One big piece of general advice: if you see a dirt road that beckons but has a "No Trespassing" sign on it, don't. People up north put those signs up for a reason and aren't too happy when folks ignore them :-) I usually like to explore and hang out during the day and do more road-tripping miles after dinner when most of the slooooow RVs are pulled off for the night. You still have plenty of light to get the miles in!
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Old 10-24-2022, 02:03 PM   #4
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Also, looking at your proposed route, a few thoughts:
1. Take the Dawson City route north from Whitehorse. It's not that many more miles and is really cool. Top of the World Hwy is usually pretty good, except for early in the season if it hasn't been fully graded. If you have time, detour south at Carcross and pop down to Skagway for at least one night. It's a beautful drive and a cool town (although overrun by cruise ships). Great free camping outside of town at Dyea Flats.
2. Plenty of places to stay overnight in and near Dawson City. We've stayed a variety of places over the years, although last time we stayed in the parking lot of the visitor center near the ferry. (Bathrooms and Wifi!) Get up early and get in line for the ferry across the Yukon or else you might be in for a long wait. Or there's a Provincial Park campground ($) across the river.
3. I assume you are taking a ferry from Valdez to Whittier?
4. Plan at least two nights, preferably three, for McCarthy/Kennicott. You pretty much have to pay to camp at the end of the road as most of the area around there is private :-( It's a terrible campground as far as campgrounds go (possibly the worse pit toilets I've ever seen), but location-location-location. Check out McCarty for a meal, visit the small museum, and bike/hike/shuttle up to Kennicott to check out the ghost town. Spending the $$ for a Kennicott tour through St Elias Alpine Guides is well worth the money. I've been there several times and even climbed through all the vacant building back in the 80s, but still thought the tour was well done. Take a hike out to and on Kennicott Glacier. Etc. The park service has done a good job stabilizing Kennicott town, but I'm glad I got to poke around there in the 80s and early 90s while it was still a real ghost town (and back when you had to pull yourself across the river on a two-person hand cable tram).
5. There's a nice free campground just across the Copper River Bridge from Chitna heading toward McCarthy, on the right. Be prepared for LOTS of eagles there due to the fishing outfitters cleaning their catches nearby (also keep an eye out for bears for the same reason).
6. McCarthy has a legendary July 4th celebration, so be aware if you're there over that timeframe there will be a ton of people there. Not my vibe, so we skipped out July 3 and hit up Valdez, which has a great small-town parade and free lunch for anyone who happens to be in town (really!).
7. In Valdez I can't recommend the LuLu Belle boat tour enough. Hands-down the best in Valdez. A small, privately owned boat that stays out all day and gets to places the bigger commercial tours don't. Seriously, it's worth the time and $$ if the weather cooperates. https://lulubelletours.com/ As previously mentioned, nice free camping back past the Valdez Aiport on Airport Road, especially at the end near the small Valdez Glacier Lake. Campground in town are basically just parking lots. Old Town Diner in Valdez is really good; amazing breakfasts, great burgers, and halibut and chips. 100% recommended.
8. Are you taking the ferry back home?
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Old 10-24-2022, 10:17 PM   #5
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^^^^I second all of that, you’ll find the journey up there is filled with plenty of opportunities to see and experience new things daily. Grab a Milepost for some useful area info, we found a lot of our nightly spots on ioverlander.
Not to be missed is Liard hot springs near the border of BC/Yukon, easily one of the top 5 we’ve been to, there’s camping on site or there’s an overflow parking lot across the road, there’s a herd of wild bison nearby.
Top of the world highway into Dawson City is spectacular, for side journeys, check out the gold rush outpost town of Eagle, try to take the tour once you’re up there, ring up the number in the welcome building, great artifacts are pristinely preserved in the buildings. There’s pull off spots right next to the river at the road culverts, throw in a line to grab a few arctic graylings to fry up in the pan, be aware of grizzlies in the area, check out the town of Chicken for a souvenir and have a poke around.
The campground across the Yukon river from Dawson City is pretty chill, there’s an old dredge down the beach, the city campground gets packed with not much privacy but it is in town, grab a famous sourtoe cocktail. Check out and your dredge #4 out along Bonanza creek rd.
Denali Highway is great too, drive it from east to west if possible from Richardson Hwy, to take in views of the range, some pull offs for the night, be aware they crush local shale to spread out along the road, sharp as knives, sliced right through one of my tires.
Talkeetna is a cute little town with plenty going on, restaurants, bars, flight seeing tours of Denali and glacier landings.
If you can get out to Katmai, spend a few days at Brooks Falls lodge to have an experience of a lifetime.

https://katmailand.com/

So much more, see if you can find Arctictraveller’s post I added things like the Stikine museum out on Telegraph creek road in BC
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Old 10-25-2022, 05:26 AM   #6
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Alaska Planning Help Needed

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+1 on Liard Hot Springs. Very nice! It can get really crowded during the day. Do your best to get there early; IIRC the gates to the parking lot open at 7am-ish, although the springs are 24/7. If you can get a spot in the campground (it fills fast) you can access the springs at any time, which is a big plus. We boondocked a short distance down the Hwy and got there right when the gates opened and had the springs almost to ourselves (this was late June). See attached map for the small side road where we camped overnight. Tons of places.

There’s a Walmart in Dawson Creek that is actually pretty nice to park at. It’s not a 24hr store so gets quiet at night. Grass area to the left of the store and there’s actually a picnic table or two there as well! [emoji106]
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Old 10-25-2022, 03:22 PM   #7
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This is great info. Thank you for all the contributions, this is awesome. I was hoping there are lots of options for boondocking but was not sure. I will definitely book a trip soon on the LuLu Belle cruise (they are already filling up for next summer). I was planning for a boat tour but was not sure which port or company (thanks BrianW).

Definitely making the Laird Hot Springs a stop for a good soak.

Thanks for the suggestion on the top of the world road, REF. I will have to consider that and the extra time it will take.

Looking forward to hearing any other suggestions for our experienced Alaska adventurers!
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Old 10-25-2022, 04:35 PM   #8
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Whitehorse to Dawson City and then Top of the World Hwy to Tok doesn’t really add much time over going directly from Whitehorse to Tok via the Alcan, and is a lot more interesting (apart from Kluane Lake).
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Old 10-28-2022, 08:59 AM   #9
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Good advice from Brian W. - and more

I got back 3 weeks ago from 4 months in my 2001 SB, 2WD.

My biggest surprise was that the roads were much better than I had been led to believe. We even went up the Dempster Highway to Tuktoyaktuk and we did lose a tire (the tread stripped off, didn't go flat), so take the advice to have 2 spares! Most of the gravel roads were pretty smooth, with the exception of the Denali Highway, which was horrible with washboarding between the tire-swallowing potholes!

Get the Milepost book. Very useful.

iOverlander was better in Canada and Alaska than the other apps we've used in the lower 48.

Everything is more expensive. Plan accordingly.

Cell service. Verizon was better in Alaska, T-Mobile was better in Canada. (T-Mobile contracts with a company in Alaska, and they limit you to 5 gigs for the month. So much for "unlimited data" and "best coverage in America"! When I got home, I got a nasty-gram from them about how their international and Alaskan coverage isn't intended to be used heavily or for long. )

Brian W. offered great advice. I totally agree with the LuLuBelle recommendation. You'll go close to the face of the glacier, right through icebergs, even gently bumping the boat. The Skipper is a real character who keeps up an almost constant patter that is informative and entertaining, though it occasionally crosses over into social/political.

Watch the Bore tide at Turnagain Arm. There are lots of rest stops for good viewing. People will try to catch the wave and surf the up to 6 foot wave. Visitor Centers have tide schedules.

Top of the World Highway is a good addition. We boondocked on the Canada side before entering Alaska.

In Tok, there's a great little Thai takeout place, right behind the Visitor Center/Library.

Girdwood - If you like small breweries, I recommend Girdwood Brewing Co. https://girdwoodbrewing.com/ They have a good variety of brews, and a very good root beer (non-alcoholic). Nice location, friendly people. You can get a hot shower and do laundry in Girdwood at the Laundromat that shares a building with a dispensary. The "Laundromall" 158 Holmgren Pl, Girdwood, AK 99587. The owner is very nice, the place is very clean.

I agree that the drive rather than ferry from Valdez to Kenai is a good idea. You get to see so much more. It doesn't take all that much more time or miles, and if this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip, don't skimp.

Gas prices! Holy Moly! We just handed over the credit card and closed our eyes. In parts of Canada, we paid up to $7.50 US/Gal (of course in $C and liters). In much of Alaska, about $5.20 was common. Who knows what next summer will bring. At least you won't have hotel costs.

Anchorage was a disappointment. Just another American city, with all of the American City big box stores, traffic, and the rest. We preferred Fairbanks, which we had been told to skip.

Plan for RAIN and clouds and low clouds. The clouds can be beautiful, but they can also obscure the views of the mountains and glaciers that you came to see. Flexibility in itinerary is important if you have certain things you REALLY want to see.

If you go through Chicken, there are 2 areas for souvenirs and such. The authentic part is the old, short strip of Mercantile, Bar, Diner. Fresh-made pies, good food. The big new building has some fun photo-op stuff, but it's a corporate opportunism taking away from the folks who've been there for decades.

So much to see and do. Enjoy the planning, then relish in the adventure.
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Old 10-28-2022, 10:03 AM   #10
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BK8LST, thank you for the scoop. Very helpful. Did you reserve the LuluBelle way in advance and just make a point to get there in time? I'm torn between having a flexible itinerary and just showing up to see when they can squeeze us in versus reserving way in advance and making sure you are there in time.
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