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Old 01-12-2017, 11:56 AM   #11
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Here's a pic of a typical steel tire carrier spindle. The larger diameter by the crown nut is where they weld the arm of the tire carrier to. The smaller diameter is what is welded through the bumper. With a large gauge, you can drill a hole and weld it top and bottom and that could do it. Typically the weld portion is only 4-5" long and wont reach the bottom of a stock bumper so some sort of provision must be made. Then you still have to have a catch mechanism for the arm. so modifying a stock bumper get's pretty involved. Aluminess using the door pin hookup is probably the least intrusive and fastest install no matter how you slice it.

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Old 01-12-2017, 12:53 PM   #12
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thank you for the info flux. very true but i would rather drill out a hole in the stock bumper and modify the stock bumper and and if i don't like it or it comes out shitty just get a new stock bumper or be forced into getting an aftermarket bumper with tire carrier as opposed to drilling out my door hinge thats panted and all nice and fudging that all up where it looks shitty afterwards and theres no real fixing that for me besides bringing it to a shop having a new pin put in and painted to match again. i don't really want to do something that permanent to the door that can't be undone and look like nothing was ever attempted.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:18 PM   #13
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You could do it but it would need to fabricated out of hitch grade/quality steel and welds. In my experience that holds up fine. Probably need a backing plate to fit inside the bumper that bolts right to the bumper mount and right to the carrier swing arm tower (like a shelf.) Don't count on metal structure of the bumper, fit shelf underneath.

From my front spare project.

https://themodness.wordpress.com/2017/01/01/spare-time/

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Old 01-12-2017, 02:21 PM   #14
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BTW if you are trying to save money, front spare project was pretty cheap. $500 vs $5000 and no welding just cutting and drilling.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:45 PM   #15
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BTW if you are trying to save money, front spare project was pretty cheap. $500 vs $5000 and no welding just cutting and drilling.
very true i have a front trailer hitch i mount my cooler/rod rack to for fishing and such. i dint generally use my back one unless i have my bike carrier in it. maybe i can make one for the back of the van. just stinks i would have to make something that maybe folds forward like my bike rack so that i could still open my van doors.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:38 PM   #16
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https://www.wilcooffroad.com/shop/hitchgate/

It's a little pricey but it should sell easily when you get a full bumper.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:58 PM   #17
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I've done a few hinges and it's not a big deal, just grind the bottom and top of the pin in the hinge and tap it out. It does take time, patience and a steady hand but we'll worth the effort.
Much easier than trying to create a new system.
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Old 01-13-2017, 10:05 PM   #18
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https://www.wilcooffroad.com/shop/hitchgate/

It's a little pricey but it should sell easily when you get a full bumper.
I'm looking at those for my 4x4 trailer.
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Old 01-14-2017, 12:15 AM   #19
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https://www.wilcooffroad.com/shop/hitchgate/

It's a little pricey but it should sell easily when you get a full bumper.
I really like these. The only advantage I see the aluminess having over these is that with the aluminess one you can open the passenger side rear door without having to move it out of the way.
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Old 01-14-2017, 01:44 AM   #20
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Or a driver side RakAttach with a hitch mounted spare carrier. See
http://rakattach.com


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