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Old 04-12-2020, 03:06 PM   #1
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CA1055 alarm installation

Finally getting around to installing an alarm system in my 2006 E350 SMB. I have researched the installation process Best I can, but still have a few questions. I donít think these questions are specific to this alarm, as any DIY installation will need to identify these wires.

1. Not sure if the E350 is a positive or negative switching parking lights and how do I test.

2. Do I need to connect both the + and - door trigger input wires?

3. There is a wire that is labeled as ďground when armed I put (-)Ē. Do I just ground this wire? What is itís polarity when the alarm is not grounded?

4. Apparently each door has itís own lock/unlock wire. It says to join them all together when connecting to the relays for a 5wire setup. Is there a location in the van where these wires all pass together? They also mention diodes are needed but the alarm did not come with diodes. Why are they needed?

I know this sounds specific, but hoping some one here has already gone through this and can shed some light and advice. Thanks!
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Old 04-13-2020, 05:28 AM   #2
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In general your system if positive so any port on the alarm labeled as positive should be used. The only ground wire you need be concerned with it the one for the alarm "brain"---in the CA1055 it would be the one sharing the connector with the red/black/lt blue wires.

Parking lights will need a positive signal to illuminate when the "brain" calls for them.

Door & Hood/Truck triggers are also positive, typically that signal can be found in the overhead or dome lights. IF you have the accessory delay you'll need to know if the CA1055 can be programmed to arm itself properly after that circuit times out.

If you have Ford factory RKE you need only to find the wires for "lock" and "unlock" and tap into them---the "switch side" and "motor side" don't come into play with that feature in place.

IF you're using the 5 wire reversal at ground DIY relay package you do need to pay attention to how its wired as shown in the schematic they provide for your alarm. FWIW since that CA1055 seems to show it already has that circuit as part of its operation so I'm guessing you can avoid making your own relay package. If that's the case that's a very slick new feature on that alarm.

Not sure this helps but its what I know about installing something similar albeit a much less sophisticated alarm "brain".

BTW looking at the installation/instruction manual on-line those should be helpful. If not I'm sure Code Alarm has a tech line or on-line support for their products.
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Old 04-15-2020, 02:25 PM   #3
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So now I am trying to determine if I need diodes to isolate the door triggers. The company I purchased the alarm from says I need to look at the gauge cluster.

“That van may have started out as the base chassis. Check that wiring at the back of the dash display cluster. The 26 pin plug at the back of the instrument cluster may only have the one "Door ajar" wire shown at pin # 22. That is light blue with black stripe. You can use a volt meter to verify if that one wire shows continuity to ground when any one of your doors is open. If that is what your van has then no diodes are needed and you only have one connection to make to cover all of the doors.”

I really don’t want to pull the instrument gauge cluster if I don’t have to. Anyone know the wiring on a 2006 e350. Are there 3 different door triggers or just the one?
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Old 04-17-2020, 05:33 AM   #4
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Did those suggestions about pulling the instrument cluster come from the actual manufacturer or the seller? If from the seller and they also do customer installations of the same alarm you bought I'd trust their instructions. If from the manufacturer's technical support team they should know too.

I'd suggest buying an EVTM for your year van---they should be easily found on eBay. Here's the best deal I could quickly find: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Ford-E...kAAOSwjqxeXxxk

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Old 04-17-2020, 08:22 AM   #5
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Thanks JWA, it comes from the seller - Crutchfield. They have actually been very helpful, but have been wavering on if I need diodes or not. So I will be jumping into the guts of the install and find out for myself with a meter. Wish me luck.
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Old 04-18-2020, 04:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belize View Post
Wish me luck.
Absolutely!

Keep in mind the door triggers would be the same devices that control the dome lights, those mounted in the door jambs. If you connect the alarm brain to trigger when the dome light comes on--this connection made at the actual dome light fixture and would be the far more simple approach to having the alarm sound, dealing with the instrument cluster wouldn't be necessary.

If you'll be using the 5 wire reversal at rest DIY relay circuit you shouldn't need diodes in any place for the alarm brain to actuate the actual door lock/unlock solenoids.

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Old 04-21-2020, 05:18 PM   #7
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So I had everything working. Then I added a motion sensor to the shock alarm. Easy, power, ground and trigger to existing alarm trigger, but diode protected on both motion sensor line and alarm line. Now the siren does not sound and the dash lights flash instead. I removed the motion sensor, put everything back the way it was when working, but the dash lights still flash instead of the siren sounding. Any idea what to try next?
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Old 04-22-2020, 05:08 AM   #8
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I can't seem to find the schematic I had viewed some time ago, the wiring & signal inputs/outputs for the brain. That might help me offer an idea what happened.

Off the top of my head there should be no reason the siren stopped working if you reversed your motion/shock sensor addition. Double check the physical wiring to make sure nothing has come loose or left unconnected.

I offer that only because I put an inline quick connect terminal in my own siren output so I could test and reprogram my alarm without it constantly sounding and annoying the neighbors. I probably sent 30+ minutes looking for a problem that was so simple to fix, just reconnect things dummy!
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Old 04-22-2020, 09:41 AM   #9
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So I have now officially entered DIY hell with this alarm. The van will not start. Turn key, dash lights light up, I can hear the glow plugs, but turn key to start. Nothing. I have full battery. Checked all fuses I could find, inside and out. All good. Not even sure where to start now. Any ideas?
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Old 04-22-2020, 04:27 PM   #10
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Found blown fuse, so all is well now except the alarm siren does not sound. The alarm sets and triggers, but only the parking lights flash, no siren. Have check all connects. Go figure...
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