Coolant Leak - may require exorcisam - Page 2

**daveb** · 09-10-2021, 03:35 AM

My bottle on my diesel cracked. I tried to use CA glue but it continued to weep. Luckily I could visible see the crack as it leaked under pressure. Later I tried epoxy with the same results and the coolant leaked from under the repair. My bottle yellowed over the years. I'm not sure what kind of plastic it was made out of. I scratched the area where the seam had split (to help the glue stick) and it made kind of a powdery residue. The new Ford bottle didn't seem so brittle and was white compared to yellowish. If the engine was running I never saw the leak probably due to the engine heat evaporating the coolant but if I let it sit after a drive the coolant made it to the ground close to the bottle location. If it was a crack under or on the side of the bottle it would have been more difficult to find. Hopefully your quick fix will work. Mine didn't.

SierraHawk · 09-10-2021, 04:33 AM

Only way I could see the cracks was to remove it and look at it in sunlight. Adhesive seems to have worked but I will see if NAPA is willing to replace it.

boywonder · 09-10-2021, 07:55 AM

The bottles are either polypropylene or polyethylene...same stuff that Elmer's glue/wood glue bottles are made out of. It's very difficult to adhere much of anything to either of those materials.

You can attempt to remelt the plastic to seal the leak with a soldering iron etc, but that usually ends in failure unless you have experience. Here are a few videos about how to repair them:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...rv+water+tanks

The Ronco tank video is a good one; they are repairing by spin welding using a router motor. These folks make loads of RV tanks.

moorefc · 09-10-2021, 03:12 PM

Seems like it makes sense to replace the bottle as you allude in post 12...how much is time stranded, and risk of overheating the block worth? The description of driving without coolant can point to new engine time or early engine life issues.....Stay cool!

SierraHawk · 11-13-2021, 09:30 PM

The glue I used to seal the coolant resivior seems to have worked but several weeks ago I found a clamp on one of the lower hoses needed to be tightned (it was letting coolant weep onto the ground). Coolant resivior seems to be holding. Problem solved - maybe. Crawling around under the front end I could see that the front leaf springs were not just level but about an inch below what would be considered level. If it ain't one thing...

JWA · 11-15-2021, 05:40 AM

The OEM degas bottle brand new even from FordPartsGiant is well less than $100 these days. Before I'd risk repairing such an inexpensive part or using some questionable aftermarket part I'd go the OEM route and have a bit of confidence it would be long-lived.

One example: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...-8a080-aa.html

SierraHawk · 11-15-2021, 10:53 AM

Interestingly, I got several quotes. Rileys a bit less than $100. NAPA was around $130 (It is also what I paid for the reservior 4 years ago at NAPA). Ford in Reno was around $150. Ford in Carson City was close to $200 (price plus tax). It is the obscene price for a piece of plastic that led me to find an alternative. The glue and compression band seem to have worked.

JWA · 11-16-2021, 03:13 AM

^^^SMB is a great source of information especially where to find OEM parts at great prices. Personally I'll seek advice from those who've BTDT before calling multiple discount or chain store auto parts sellers.

Dealers will sell at MSRP unless you have a repair business or an account with a dealer. Looking on-line or sites like SMB often result in significant cost savings.

You only have to ask.

desertsherpa · 11-16-2021, 09:03 AM

I would just buy the part while it is still in production/available. You know yours is compromised.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...eservoir,10457

SierraHawk · 11-16-2021, 01:11 PM

Geez JWA...I wish I would have thought of that several months ago.

When I look under the hood I can see some of the coolant on top of the resivor, below the resivor, where it dripps on the inner surface of the wheel well/fender and where it finally runs down my front spring pack and onto the ground.

I have used a bottle of the NAPA florescent liquid and the pen light to look for a leak or some indication that the leak can be repaired. I have replaced the coolant and resavoir, put two clamps on the hose that runs from the resivior to the radiator and put on a new radiator cap. If you have solved this problem on a 5.4 SMB rig please let me know. Thanks.