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Old 12-01-2016, 08:36 PM   #11
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Maths is hard.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:39 PM   #12
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Wait, in that case can't you use an 8mm and have an even smaller gap?
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:25 PM   #13
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Lathe? What's a lathe? Spin the bigger one on the grinder for a bit.


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Old 12-01-2016, 09:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Wait, in that case can't you use an 8mm and have an even smaller gap?
a mouse fart smaller gap than 5/16" (.3125") 8mm= .315"........still .025" under.....
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:07 PM   #15
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I'm not sure if you actually need a nut and bolt or if a hinge pin secured by an E clip will work ?

Dorman Part Number: 38391
Hinge pin - 0.340 In. x 2.83 In.
3/8 In. E-clip

comes with two bronze bushings that you wouldn't need.


Dorman Tailgate Hinge Bushing & Kit 38391- ReadReviews onDorman #38391
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:07 PM   #16
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I've come up with two solutions......
First one was to machine a stainless 18-8 3/8" (.375") shoulder screw down to .340"......that's what I've got now and it works fine, except my lathe is a POS harbor freight toy and I'm anal....the lathe work sort of sucks....
I had an issue with my Aluminess bolts being slightly too long and needed to add a washer under the head and then double nut to take up the slack and prevent the strap from quickly becoming egg shaped. Last time I was in El Cajon, I stopped by to see if they had a better fitting one and they said the bolts were all the same. He also said they were centerless ground to size. Trying to machine a stainless bolt on a lathe is difficult on even a great lathe. Grinding is the way to go if you want a tight, fit that holds the door ridgidly enough to prevent rattles.
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:11 AM   #17
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Lol
3/8 doesn't fit.

My aluminess bumper came with bolts that just physically would not fit. Come to find out, they buy 3/8 shouldered bolts and grind/machine them down. Apparently they forgot to do mine, and overnighted the right ones. Trust me, 3/8 may be "pretty close" but it isn't going to work with drilling, grinding, or pounding and destroying something.
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Old 12-02-2016, 06:49 AM   #18
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I had an issue with my Aluminess bolts being slightly too long and needed to add a washer under the head and then double nut to take up the slack and prevent the strap from quickly becoming egg shaped. Last time I was in El Cajon, I stopped by to see if they had a better fitting one and they said the bolts were all the same. He also said they were centerless ground to size. Trying to machine a stainless bolt on a lathe is difficult on even a great lathe. Grinding is the way to go if you want a tight, fit that holds the door ridgidly enough to prevent rattles.
I think a lathe will work....just that my setup is so small that I had to flip the part and do 1/2 of the shoulder at a time...so I have some concentricity and surface finish issues..I can't imagine that we need centerless grinding tolerances for this hinge pin.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:35 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackTuppVan View Post
I'm not sure if you actually need a nut and bolt or if a hinge pin secured by an E clip will work ?

Dorman Part Number: 38391
Hinge pin - 0.340 In. x 2.83 In.
3/8 In. E-clip

comes with two bronze bushings that you wouldn't need.


Dorman Tailgate Hinge Bushing & Kit 38391- ReadReviews onDorman #38391

That's interesting......although the rework here is for Aluminess swingarms....so the pin needs to be longer than stock
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:06 AM   #20
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..I can't imagine that we need centerless grinding tolerances for this hinge pin.
No doubt you and RPA are correct, best not to over think it. Grinding is simply the way Aluminess does it, and probably better than other methods, but it's not for the space shuttle.
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