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Old 09-10-2024, 07:37 AM   #11
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Any plywood will swell if moisture permeates the ends so careful sealing and cabinet design are key, but most of all it is important to note how rare your failure was. I'm on lots of camper forums and have never heard once of a porta potty or cassette toilet seam splitting. Sure, some folks have had spills but your issue is exceedlingly rare.

Many SMB's here, made of particle board, still last for years with average care. It's usually the T-molded edges that start giving way and certainly bottoms of cabinet faces that are often sitting on old carpet in old vans. Especially near the doors or under a window. Once you have a small leak things get ugly fast.

The go to for most of us in cabinet builds is birch. It's light and strong and pretty easy to work with. I guess I've done 4 or more vans in stained birch ply. There are many of these builds, mine included, in the home-made/ground up build section. Some custom DIY builds, some SMB rebuilds.

Another thing that is noteworthy is that very few Sportsmobiles have cassette toilets, not that the type really matters. Most late model vans have a removable porta potty. Or is that what you meant?

In your next build I would recommend a composting or separating toilet that doesn't hold large quantities of liquid. I am currently ditching my Thetford PP for a Joolca, if it ever arrives. It has separate chambers for urine and poo and you can use it as chemical or composting. If you haven't researched this it is the mixing of the two that causes the worst smells.

Top tier builds/rebuilds?
@REF
@Pschitt
@Boywonder
@Aarcaris
@teeots
@mgmetalworks
@scalf77
@saline
@bodhi1960

I'm sure I'm forgetting lots of folks


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Old 09-10-2024, 01:46 PM   #12
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Thanks so much - that list should save me some trawling time.

Right, it's not a cassette toilet - it's a removable portable type thing with a holding tank. I'll investigate the Joolca toilet. I've already seen their hot water systems - might do that, too.

Birch ply it shall be. I had a look into composite plastic sheet, but can't find anything that isn't really heavy and expensive. Also considered doing a layup in epoxy and woven fiberglass over a 1/2-inch Divinycell core. Light, but a time suck.

After I got the van, and discovered a dozen loose L-brackets floating around inside the cabinets, I glued everything using Sika construction sealant. It is flexible and wicked strong. Is there a better way of doing this on new construction?
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Old 09-10-2024, 02:17 PM   #13
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Glad you are researching options.

Lightweight - use MULTI-ply 6 to 9 layer birch - you can do can do cabinets in 3/8" and 1/2" thicknesses. There is almost no where you need 5/8" or 3/4". You will use perhaps three sheets. Ask yourself what you are really saving weight wise , plus what you will give up in interior cabinet volume by using something "exotic", not to mention cost financially.

You can use 1/16" annd 1/8" aluminum angle for joining pieces, you can use high quality glues and fasteners, there are many great ways of fastening together and to the floors/walls. Figure out how to create a flexible coupling between your cabinet banks and either the floor or wall. The van body walls and floors flex. Your cabinets need a way to accommodate that flex so they do not become a stressed component (part of the reason so many of the original SMB screws pull out) I am a fan of a floating floor that is not affixed to the metal floor. Reduces noise and thermal conduits. I hard affix the cabinets to the walls with bolted in nailers. Cabinets affix to the floating floor. VanTug makes for a reasonable insulator below the floor. Not great but at least it is closed cell so it will not absorb water.

Run all your electrical and plumbing inboard of the interior wall panels so they can be accessed/serviced without disassembling the van interior. There are plenty of ways to run these system components at the base or back of cabinets.
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Old 09-10-2024, 02:25 PM   #14
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Thanks Ray. I'm reading REF's build thread right now and realized how running the systems inside is just way simpler and cleaner for future access (plus no sheet metal edges to eat into anything).

I've gone from 'FFS/FML' etc to kind of excited. I'm pretty handy (did a 1000sqft house addition alone during Covid, a few car and truck engine swaps, rewired a plane etc) so I feel confident I can do a nice job of this alongside a bit of advice and hand-holding from the SMB brain trust!
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Old 09-10-2024, 02:51 PM   #15
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You are welcome.

House remodels are VERY different than the van. First, that level that was so critical in an house remodel is only good as a straight edge in a van build, lol!

Starting point, once the interior is gutted, is a fore-aft center line and getting a flat floor plane. The metal floor is arched from front to back and side to side. Spend the time getting the plywood floor "flat" and a large speed square becomes your best friend. "Plumb and level" are ALL relative to your van floor, not Earth!
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Old 09-10-2024, 03:04 PM   #16
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This is the kind of insight I came here for, thanks!
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Old 09-10-2024, 04:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamlip View Post
Birch ply it shall be. I had a look into composite plastic sheet, but can't find anything that isn't really heavy and expensive.
Another benefit of hardwood plywood is aesthetics. Ours is an all-wood, oak interior and we love it. Instead of cold plastic, you will be surrounded by warm wood and you will feel it just sitting there inside. One of the most enjoyed parts of our van.
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Old 09-10-2024, 06:22 PM   #18
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Thanks John. Sounds nice - do you have any pictures?

Hope you're still enjoying that RV-4.
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Old 09-10-2024, 09:19 PM   #19
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I did a build thread on mine jamlip. It should be easy to find with search by. I b basically made my own "50" layout with some twists. Happy to help you walk through it.
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Old 09-11-2024, 07:28 AM   #20
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Lightweight - use MULTI-ply 6 to 9 layer birch - you can do can do cabinets in 3/8" and 1/2" thicknesses. There is almost no where you need 5/8" or 3/4". You will use perhaps three sheets. Ask yourself what you are really saving weight wise , plus what you will give up in interior cabinet volume by using something "exotic", not to mention cost financially.
Unless you happen to like 3/4". It's easy to find, work with and T-mold. And my vans always scale out less than comparably equipped Prevhost buses.

The current one is even below GVWR! Imagine that for a camper van!

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