is danhard AC louder than roof AC - Page 2

gerrym51 · 05-25-2014, 06:23 AM

years ago i saw where one blogger vented thru a hole in the first step as you got into the van

Chance · 05-25-2014, 08:02 AM

I installed 4-inch threaded PVC fittings on floor so I could cap openings when AC is not in use for long periods, van is in storage, etc... For larger units one could go with larger fittings if needed for larger hoses. And yes, it needs to be done carefully so the van is not damaged in the process.

Portable AC units are not only tall, but have to be secured in a moving vehicle so they don't fall over. Another reason I don't like them long-term.

Also, single-hose portable units suck outside air into van so they will add cooling load to system. Whether that extra load is included in AC's rated capacity is not clear to me.

bentriderken · 05-25-2014, 02:48 PM

I am wondering where exactly you cut the hole? Mine will have to be up front between the seats.

I plan to leave the vehicle heater set on vent which should allow for the make up air and not have it come in through places in the rear.

I'd be willing to bet that the warm air that is being sucked into the room or vehicle is NOT figured into the load rating.

Thanks for your help.

Chance · 05-26-2014, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bentriderken

I am wondering where exactly you cut the hole? Mine will have to be up front between the seats.

I plan to leave the vehicle heater set on vent which should allow for the make up air and not have it come in through places in the rear.

I'd be willing to bet that the warm air that is being sucked into the room or vehicle is NOT figured into the load rating.

Thanks for your help.

My intake and exhaust ports are both behind the passenger-side rear wheel so it's not applicable to your need. Keep in mind mine is a window unit instead of a portable AC so it doesn't have hoses -- same principle though. I posted pictures a while back on how I installed the AC, including the vent ports.

I'm assuming that you would not install the portable AC permanently between the seats because it would block access. And even if that's the case, can't you place the opening anywhere within the reach of the hose that comes with unit?

Because air conditioners are often rated using a standard that includes both inside and outside temperature and humidity, it's very possible the required condenser air flow is taken into account. I'm just not sure about these portable ACs.

redrock · 06-04-2014, 09:59 AM

FWIW, if anybody is looking for a small air conditioner for their SMB, I just now bought an EdgeStar Ultra Compact Portable Air Conditioner (8k BTU) for $270 here:
http://www.compactappliance.com/EdgeSta ... 8000W.html

This thread reminded me to check them out. They're usually $100-ish more.

You do need 110v AC to run it. It claims to need 840w. I'm planning on running it with a Honda eu2000i

bentriderken · 06-04-2014, 12:36 PM

All of the posts on this subject have been very helpful.

Here is the unit I bought for $288.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG ... UTF8&psc=1

I picked this unit because it fits between the seats of my Ford 250 which is the only place it could be, given my configuration. So far it has been very effective although we have not had any 90+ days, yet but I am optimistic.

I looked into venting it through the floor but not feasible because of heat shields, drive shaft tunnel, cables, brake lines, etc. where it would need to go. I will look into that again for next season. As I needed something immediately, I used a piece of acrylic and some velcro to affix it to the outside of the passenger window. It works fine for now. Cutting an opening in the middle of the acrylic was a bit tricky. I used a spiral bit on a RotoZip router but it was too course and it left a ragged edge. It works but I am used to producing better than that.

So I will field test it this summer and make any improvements this winter. It is much quieter than the Danhard both inside and out. Plus it is cheaper by at least $2000! I wish Sportsmobile had spent their energies developing and building in a unit like this instead of offering the noisy Starcool and then the equally noisy Danhard.

bshillam · 07-22-2014, 10:36 PM

Here's an idea, roll the passenger window down enough to make room for the outlet. Once rolled down that far put an over sized sheet of cardboard and trice the window opening. I would cut say a 1/2 sheet of plywood out from that pattern. That will be your inside which is a perfect fit around the opening when the window is down. Then what you want to do is cut two other sheets out of say 1/4" just slightly larger. Sandwich the 1/2 between both 1/4 sheets and add a little weather stripping, glue. After cure you could cut the opening for the a/c outlet. Once complete all you have to do is roll the window down slightly put your new a/c fitting in and roll up snug. Maybe I am over thinking this...

I like the idea though about using a portable unit.

bentriderken · 07-23-2014, 04:03 PM

I like your idea of the "sandwich" approach to attaching the insert to the window. My experience thus far tells me to use 1/4" material throughout because that would have a better chance of sliding into the window channel plus the AC exhaust is designed to snap into thin material.

Your idea would also result in a smaller adapter which needs to be stored somewhere when traveling. Keep passing on any future ideas or suggestions. It is impossible to "over think" this. Thanks.

louie · 05-14-2015, 01:45 AM

Just wondering with the portable AC units if the 8000 btu's are able to cool down a van with the penthouse top? I'm also wondering if I went with a 10000 btu if a honda 2000 watt generator would put out enough amps to power it. I like your build ideas of venting out the window. Louie.

bentriderken · 05-15-2015, 02:35 PM

I am currently using a 8000 BTU portable AC unit with good success. It will not cool the camper down while sitting in the sun on a 95 degree day but it does just fine in the shade and when the sun goes down. After using this system for one season, I am generally well pleased with it. It is a minor hassle to set it up and stow it but it is so much quieter than that infernal Danhard system both inside and outside. Again I wish I had not spent the money for the Danhard because I can't use it because of the noise it makes.

If I was able to come up with a better system, surely Sportsmobile could have done even better.

According to the research I have done, your Honda generator should be able to run a 10000 BTU unit.