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10-26-2020, 07:49 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 317
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One option for a roof rack is to check local craigslist/facebook marketplace/junk yards for generic contractor ladder racks. Econolines are a dime a dozen in that business and around me there are almost always old ladder racks up for sale. Most will mount easily to the rain gutters, so no holes necessary. Biggest hassle will be picking it up/getting it on to your van (they're typically steel, so not super light). A lot of times they'll be used and may have some surface rust, but if you're willing to put a bit of time in to it, they can be had on the cheap and be a great base for mounting anything in the future (solar panels, awning, roof box, etc.
For the battery/electrical - I'd highly recommend being careful with the "DIY" approach. There's nothing like an electrical gremlin in a van. You may think you have it figured out (and it may work for a few months) but there's a higher chance you'll end up with some PITA electrical problem 6 months down the road on a camping trip. AGM or even led cell 6v golf cart batteries (wired in a series) are a lot cheaper than lithium. A lot depends on the longevity that you want out of your build. If you want to do it fast and cheap, get 2x golf cart batteries. I've had 215 amp/hr of trojan t105 batteries that have been beat to shit and still have over 90% charge life after 3 years. If I were to do it again/when these finally die, I'll invest the $$ in lithium.
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10-26-2020, 10:41 PM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Turlock Ca
Posts: 10,409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamperDude
Okay ive made a few decisions i'll run by you guys.
<CUT>
3. Awning - So far i decided i like the ARB awning because it's cheaper and has a room attachment that is also cheaper then rhino-rack offerings. I really like the room attachment idea because this van does not have a high roof, and having a room outside the van to stand up in, change in, or anything else would be really nice. I even imagine if i'm at a plug up spot, i could leave the side door open and the a/c cranking and it could cool this room too (hopefully).
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I'm all the way with REF on going with a Fiamma and 1ders brackets. I fly RC aircraft at least twice a week and there is no shade. It gets deployed almost every event and it gets a bit abused in the winds. It can become a sail so you need to tie it down if winds reach more than 10MPH but I use the heck out of it. If you park your van at the angle to the sun, the awning helps cast a shadow on the van helping it stay cooler inside. I've also crashed a lot of brush in the backcountry and have yet to damage it but I always avoid limb hazards if possible. Being able to just roll it out so easily and being it doesn't really take up storage space makes it a true winner in my view. I also throw up nylon tarps around it during crappy weather and I can seat at least 3 people around a propane fire. Out of the rain/cold, a fridge close by, tunes and a crummy night becomes a good one.
__________________
2006 Ford 6.0PSD EB-50/E-PH SMB 4X4 Rock Crawler Trailer
Sportsmobile 4X4 Adventures.......... On and off road adventures
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10-27-2020, 05:27 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyyankees588
If you want to do it fast and cheap, get 2x golf cart batteries. I've had 215 amp/hr of trojan t105 batteries that have been beat to shit and still have over 90% charge life after 3 years. If I were to do it again/when these finally die, I'll invest the $$ in lithium.
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It's not a great idea to install any conventional lead acid battery inside your van. A better option would be AGM, which, although more expensive, are available both in 12V and 6V versions.
A sealed battery box, vented to the outside is also an option.
https://expeditionportal.com/forum/t...-a-van.126837/
__________________
Bob
2005 E350 Super Duty Ext Wheelchair Van
2002 Itasca 35U Motorhome
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10-27-2020, 11:10 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 38
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Just some quick brainstorming on a DIY battery pack. The more i think about this the more i want to do it.
Found these cells that would work good.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32888419252.html
3.3ah per cell so 30 cells in parallel for 99.9ah x3 in series so 90 cells per ~100ah pack. Cost of 90 cells - ~225 bucks.
Still need to source other components.
I also found this, seems like a good alternative to battleborn.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963094820.html
I'm tempted to go the easy route and just get this.
thoughts?
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10-27-2020, 12:09 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamperDude
Just some quick brainstorming on a DIY battery pack. The more i think about this the more i want to do it.
Found these cells that would work good.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32888419252.html
3.3ah per cell so 30 cells in parallel for 99.9ah x3 in series so 90 cells per ~100ah pack. Cost of 90 cells - ~225 bucks.
Still need to source other components.
I also found this, seems like a good alternative to battleborn.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963094820.html
I'm tempted to go the easy route and just get this.
thoughts?
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Before you pursue this route, check out Will Prowse's YouTube channel. He has many videos about the DIY route including cells to stay away from and cells that test out OK. He also does tear-downs of various brands of LiFePO4 batteries showing quality differences, etc:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoj...q8kmJme-5dnN0Q
__________________
Bob
2005 E350 Super Duty Ext Wheelchair Van
2002 Itasca 35U Motorhome
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10-27-2020, 10:22 PM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 38
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Okay I spent some time researching and i have some cells picked out. I'll probably order these cells tomorrow unless someone has a reasonable reason to do otherwise. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001270537853.html
I like these because they are cheap and has lots of orders/reviews.
I think i will use this BMS that should be overkill for my use, since i have a 1000w inverter.
https://overkillsolar.com/product/bms-120a-4s-lifepo4/
things i'm not 100% sure about..
1. if the battery isolator relay for the engine battery/alternator will be okay to hook to this, or if i need to remove it or get something like a dc-dc charger to go in-between.
2. if my solar charger will work with the bms.
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10-28-2020, 05:22 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamperDude
things i'm not 100% sure about..
1. if the battery isolator relay for the engine battery/alternator will be okay to hook to this, or if i need to remove it or get something like a dc-dc charger to go in-between.
2. if my solar charger will work with the bms.
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1. Definitely the DC-to-DC charger:
There's also one with MPPT solar built in:
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/re...r-w-mppt.1406/
2. Will Prowse has a forum, you may get an answers there:
https://diysolarforum.com/members/will-prowse.1/
Good luck, I'm looking forward to how it all works out. I've been toying with this approach for a while now for my motorhome but not while it's just sitting there. I'll probably wait until my golf cart batteries need replacing.
__________________
Bob
2005 E350 Super Duty Ext Wheelchair Van
2002 Itasca 35U Motorhome
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10-28-2020, 10:02 AM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 38
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Thanks for the tips. I'll document the process and everything i use to make the battery so you guys can learn from my failures lol.
I just watched the video you sent, and from what i gather, the dc-dc charger will preform the same function as my battery isolator relay, just in a regulated way. and replace the relay altogether. Seems easy to set up. I'll have to get that.
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10-29-2020, 10:36 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 105
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Fridge: Get a Truckfridge
Awning: ARB or Something like 1der sells...
ARB is longer to set up.
Rack: Aluminess if you want aluminum that is super nice. Option: Look for an older used H1 rack (aluminum) and cut it and have it welded to the width you want. Fab mounts that bolt to aluminum unistrut. The aluminum unistrut can be bolted to the top and is lightweight and strong. Use Vulcum polyurethane caulking to seal up any holes through the roof and yer good to go.
__________________
2006 RB E250 Ford High top, Diesel 6.0 Bullet Proofed (ouch $) 4" Camburg Eng. Lift, Method Wheels, 33" Toyo AT, RB50 interior (homebuilt)
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