Look what just drove up in my driveway, it's Rusty! - Page 22

mpfreivald · 06-09-2015, 06:32 AM

Great take on it, especially 'compacting' this down to better transport size and the translucent partition/insert. I like the way your setup lets in the light (one of the great things about the PH top in general). I've found that the window unit has plenty of cooling power compared to portable or RV units of similar BTU rating (YMMV of course), so there is almost never a need to black out windows from a cooling standpoint.

Best,
Matt

2horsegarage · 06-10-2015, 05:37 AM

Eric... I've been off the forum awhile, and may have missed an update on your solar --- but how's it working? I want to add (I think).

Do you like the set up you bought? How rigid is the panel?

I'm thinking about trying to build a hinged frame to sit on top of my roof basket so I can raise up the panel and still stuff crap in the basket.

86Scotty · 06-10-2015, 07:19 AM

2horse, I'm very satisfied with it. It is plenty rigid for making a tilting setup. I considered it too but mine is up under the front lip of my roof box a couple inches so that won't work. I bought it on Amazon and many here have as well, it's pretty much the most popular one on there now and you can read thousands of reviews. No need though, really, it works great! I think 200 watts is the ideal setup, but I have no real estate for it. My 100 watt setup, with the kit-supplied PWM controller and 2 group 31 AGMs (I don't remember my amp hours on the batteries) will run my fridge for 4-5 days with average sun and clouds before it's dipping to around 12.2 or so when the fridge compressor runs. That's when I plug in and charge for a night. If I drive the van regularly I can probably go indefinitely, but I say 200 watt is the ultimate because you could save the time and trouble on the tilt setup and soak up plenty of power without tilting them. I also think with regular usage of lights, furnace, etc. 200 watts with some daily sun or driving the van some would balance perfectly.