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03-17-2020, 08:41 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Dangriga
Posts: 172
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The Sportsmobile standard 4x4 conversion.
Atlas II All Gear Driven Transfer Case
Dynatrac Pro-Roc 60 Front Axle
Dana 60 Rear Axle
High Knuckle Front End for Extra Tie Rod Clearance
Extra Heavy Duty Steering Arm
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03-17-2020, 08:42 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Dangriga
Posts: 172
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I do have the arb high volume onboard compressor, and I do air down. Just wondering if I can improve on that option
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03-21-2020, 08:35 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Dangriga
Posts: 172
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I have decided on the Fox 2.0 or 2.0 with remote reservoir. Now I am looking at advice on how to measure the size of the shock to get. Do I order by the distance from the top to bottom bolts? Or measure ground to frame? I am sure there must be a standard measurement to ensure you get the right size shock. Thanks for all the advice!
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03-21-2020, 09:53 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibo
carringb, I assume you're recommending the single-adjustable low speed compression adjuster (CD or LSC) option and not the hi/low dual compression adjuster (DSC) option, correct? I've been trying to justify adding this option, as the price climbs quickly. I have triple-adjustable Penskes on my race car and love the adjustability, but this ain't no race car.
Would you recommend the CD adjuster front-only, or both front/rear? And if front-only, would you still recommend reservoir shocks in the rear?
---
As for valving, it seems reasonable that ordering shocks spec'd for a Super Duty would be a reasonable starting point--or does Fox not revalve based on application?
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Yes, I'd stick with low-speed compression adjuster. You should only need the DSC if you had a wildly-different mass suspension setup, like a custom DOM-tube 5-link. And even then... I'm not sure its reliability is up to snuff for most consumer rigs, especially heavy ones.
And the low speed CDA option, I'm only recommending here because Belize doesn't have the option to go to Agile and buy some pre-valved. When that option is feasible for anybody, I'd recommend just going that route. With the CDA option, there's no way to know your starting point, and it'll all be trial and error. Fox has a little trouble with manufacturing consistency, so the setting for any 2 shocks might be different, even on the same rig, same axle. And most folks just don't have the damper setup experience to really figure it out easily IMO.
I would not go with standard Superduty valving on an EB van, especially a gasser. Weight bias is too rearward. But RB diesel van can probably get by using SuperDuty valving.
__________________
2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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03-21-2020, 10:02 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belize
I have decided on the Fox 2.0 or 2.0 with remote reservoir. Now I am looking at advice on how to measure the size of the shock to get. Do I order by the distance from the top to bottom bolts? Or measure ground to frame? I am sure there must be a standard measurement to ensure you get the right size shock. Thanks for all the advice!
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You need to know your shock length at full extension (you have to measure this using a lift) and your compressed length, which you can measure by taking the eye-to-eye or eye-to-stem length at static ride height, and subtracting the distance to your jounce stop, while using some trig to account for the angle of the shock body. And add in any possible jounce-stop compression. Then you subtract the compressed length from the extended length, and order the next travel-length-up. Once you find that shock length, you need to verify the compressed length is still less than your minimum compressed distance, because you don't want the shock bottomming out. If you have to order down a size, this means your shock could top-out, but on trails, this will only happen when really off-camber at low speeds, and shouldn't hurt anything (while bottoming out on the shock is always bad news). But if you're doing any high-speed whoops or similar, where the van is leaving the ground, then you'd want limiting straps if you have to order down a size.
__________________
2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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03-22-2020, 07:28 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Dangriga
Posts: 172
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So on the full shock length, you jack up the the side you are measuring, and let the tire hang. Then measure hole to hole? You do that with the existing shock off?
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03-22-2020, 10:15 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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It depends. Ideally, you would do it with the shock off. But you you've never topped out your existing shocks, then that length is likely fine, and you can just measure that shock fully extended. Or even remove the bottom bolt, and let it fully extend and just measure that.
__________________
2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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03-23-2020, 08:06 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Dangriga
Posts: 172
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The problem at the moment is Agile/Weldtec/others are not answering emails...understandably. Would go to themif they did.
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03-23-2020, 08:38 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 335
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I have the 2.0’s on my van, I think they do pretty good. Not as good as the internally valved fox’s on my raptor tho. I would go that direction if budget allows, something with an internal valve and remote reservoir to make it down long washboard roads.
__________________
'99 ford e350 - 7.3L 4x4
'10 ford f150 raptor scab
'53 buick special eight - the sled
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03-23-2020, 08:49 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 1,995
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The shocks are a Band-Aid if this is a mid 2000s SMB with the Ford OEM springs on the rear and ARBs that are likely now reverse arched on the front.
Shipping springs to Belize is probably ungodly expensive but just say'n.
__________________
2005 E350 RB 6.0 PSD for extended fun
1989 Landcruiser FJ62 for local fun
2011 VW TDI Golf for hwy fun
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