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Old 02-19-2018, 03:17 PM   #81
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Volts testing on battery . 12.64
Glow plugs on 11.32
Don’t know if that’s after wait to start light turned off . Turned key on and ran to multimeter
based on your numbers, the glow plug relay seems to be working. not sure if all of your glow plugs are working but some of them are considering the voltage drop.

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Old 02-19-2018, 03:19 PM   #82
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Also can’t really find ipr from being under the hood ... looking to feel for it behind or on backside of hpop? Couldn’t get my hand back there and feel that but that everyone says comes loose
you may be able to see it when you take off the doghouse cover inside. But its under the fuel bowl in the front of the valley
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:16 PM   #83
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you may be able to see it when you take off the doghouse cover inside. But its under the fuel bowl in the front of the valley
Ive had doghouse off for the last few weeks. Looking in from there should be on the drivers side of HPOP at the bottom?
I’m going to try and not have to remove turbo and everything else again
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:00 AM   #84
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Ive had doghouse off for the last few weeks. Looking in from there should be on the drivers side of HPOP at the bottom?
I’m going to try and not have to remove turbo and everything else again

Yes! Good luck trying to get around all of that. At minimum the turbo may have to come out again. Do you have access to a scan tool or diagnostic tool that can read/log the 7.3 PIDs while cranking?
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:20 AM   #85
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i changed the IPR in mine with the turbo in place. you have to remove the intake spider (the y piece), and use a few Loooong extensions so the ratchet is back by the transmission. its pretty terrible to do, but possible. with the turbo off, its likely pretty easy to get to.
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:55 AM   #86
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Have an edge programmer I’m using. As of now not getting any real codes.. maybe because I had the batteries disconnected for awhile
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:56 AM   #87
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i changed the IPR in mine with the turbo in place. you have to remove the intake spider (the y piece), and use a few Loooong extensions so the ratchet is back by the transmission. its pretty terrible to do, but possible. with the turbo off, its likely pretty easy to get to.
I’m looking at the ipr now... the sensor on the top of the ipr is kinda wiggling don’t know if that magnet electric peice is cracked but is that normal for the sensors bracket or whatever is holding it to wiggle... that nut on the end of it seems tight? Also how much for an ipr? Should I go to international ?
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:02 AM   #88
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i got mine form ford.

the thing screws into the HPOP, and then the black coil slides over it, then the tin nut goes on. its three pieces basically. with the tin nut tight, it should not really wiggle. careful though, the tin nut is just a stamped tin nut, and will strip easily.

i had to use my 1/2" drive deep socket to remove it from the Hpop, as the 3/8" drive deep socket wasn't deep enough.
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:29 AM   #89
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i got mine form ford.

the thing screws into the HPOP, and then the black coil slides over it, then the tin nut goes on. its three pieces basically. with the tin nut tight, it should not really wiggle. careful though, the tin nut is just a stamped tin nut, and will strip easily.

i had to use my 1/2" drive deep socket to remove it from the Hpop, as the 3/8" drive deep socket wasn't deep enough.
How much was it? And do you remember if there was any play on that sensor above it? Should I clean it then reinstall ?
Yeah I’ve heard that you need a really deep socket to get over it. We’re you getting any codes about it or a no start?
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:46 AM   #90
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it was expensive, around $150

no play in it at all that i recall.

i was having a no start issue. no codes leading me to it. just threw some parts at it because i was at a dead end, and unable to scan for ICP value.

my craftsman 1/2' drive 1 1/8" socket fit over it, FYI.
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