Preventive measures on the 6.0 PSD before a long trip

[daveb]

I also had a vac pump fail but I don't consider that an 6.0 issue. Prior to using a fuel additive I lost an injector and had EGR issues. I'm also using Hot Shot from time to time in the fuel and oil. The ICP sensor failed once that resulted in a tow and I had the fuel regulator leak after a long trip but limped back home. The bed plate gasket leaked from day one and that was replace under warranty. The first big non warranty issue was the vac pump then second out of pocket failure was the wiring harness. At that point I started to consider doing some upgrades to my 2006 engine and had the FICM replace with a bullet proof model. I added hood louvers which knocked down the transmission and coolant temps. I'm hoping this will keep engine bay temps from doing more damage. This year I also had the engine bullet proofed. New turbo, (old one was fine), studs. air dog fuel pump, coolant filter, cold air box, BP EGR cooler, SCT tune, and a host of little upgrades done during the process. After getting it back I lost the cam sensor which was an issue with the harness is some way I was told and during that repair found the idler pulley bad.
For the extra price I paid for the 6.0 engine alone, I could have gone a long way in compensation of the price of fuel and the lousy mileage a V-10 gets. A diesel engine requires twin batteries which will fail at some point and oil changes are high dollar as well. Add the upgrades I made and I'd probably still have a lot of free gas for the V-10 waiting in my pocket if I had gone that way.
I still like the performance of the 6.0 and it sounds like a real engine.

The problem is like Zeta mentioned is a lot can go wrong even with a well kept 6.0 engine.
I'm no mechanic but hope this will work for me.
>Always use some kind of fuel additive.
>Get a coolant filter.
>Add Oil & fuel additive for injector sticksion from time to time.
>Add hood louvers.
Do standard engine maintenance:
>Air filter(s)
>Keep up on battery maintenance.
>Replacing the oil filter(s) and oil at every 5K seems to be a wise or move to a twin filter system.
>Replace the coolant often.
Keep up on the fuel filters.
Keep the EGR valve clean or add a BP model.

Even if I had a V-10 many problems I've had still would have resulted in a tow. I mean what is the chance of picking up a screwdriver on the road and having it punch through the radiator or having a wire harness come loose and slash through it? Both happened to me...just call me lucky.

[JoeH]

I thought this thread was about what to do before going on a long trip? I suppose you could totally bulletproof the engine but really the critical thing is to keep the fluids fresh and buy a scanguage or an Edge Insight and monitor the essentials: FICM voltage, EOT, ECT, etc. Take along spare ICP and EBP sensors. And like carringB said, always use OEM filters.

The Ford Gold coolant is not to be neglected so make sure to have that tested and flushed every ~30,000 miles. Switch to a CAT-1 rated ELC if you can but do your research as it's not that simple.

[daveb]

Well the OP was thinking of purchasing a 6.0 so I thought Zeta's remark kind of made a bit of sense. The fact is even minor bullet proofing the 6.0 engine would be a good idea in prepping for a high mileage trip. Carringb's first post seemed like a good idea. Cutting holes in the hood was one of the best mods I've had done but I live in a hot climate. Just do what you can.

I think keeping up on regular maintenance (like I posted) or doing a bit extra is very important before a long extended trip. I mean if I had 1000 miles to go to do an oil change and I planned to do a 3000 mile cross country trip I'd go ahead and change it before I left out.
I can't believe the shop missed the idler pulley on my van but that can happen on any vehicle. So I doubt a shop can predict what will break down on any motor. I just carry a sat phone with numbers of local area shops. Hopefully if I break down and can't get a tow, I can get the mechanic to drive to me.

[JoeH]

Good points Daveb. Bulletproofing in my case has occurred at 90k; and only because my egr hose began leaking. Otherwise, besides a blown injector I have had no issues with the 6.0.

I'm interested in the hood louver install. I've bookmarked a few links to vendors and read what Badgertrek did and Zeta's thread but haven't found a good DIY write-up. I'm paranoid with cutting tools and sheet metal.

[daveb]

Yeah it was hard punching holes in a perfectly good fiberglass hood I started smaller than most members have for fear of structural issues down the road and used a circular saw that put a couple 6" holes per louver. Even at that I couldn't believe the difference. The van's engine bay gets so hot I think it had a lot to do with the wire harness failure I had. But after installing the louvers I was shocked to see the transmission temps drop off so far. It makes it worth it for that alone.
I do a lot of slow off road travel in warm weather and with that in mind I wish I could have sprung for a remote oil cooler. I'll also have to see how 100+ temps react to the engine tune. Sunday I took a drive to the Lick Observatory in 82* weather and even on that steep grade all the temps stayed in check.

I've had my share of issues with the 6.0 but if I would have taken more care I might not have had as many problems. For example since I started using fuel additives I quit having EGR issues and never had the problem others have had with the turbo. At 90K my turbo was in great shape.

We always here of the 6.0 problems but how many of those are owner operator problems? Like you've posted Joe, keeping up on the fluids and filters goes a long way. Proper start up and shut down is also something I've done unfortunately about the only way to know how a used motor will run partially depends on the previous owner. I had the luxury of purchasing a new van so the only thing I worried about was if the engine was put together correctly in the first place. Maybe the guy who did mine built it the day after the super bowl Just kidding. The shop said mine looked in good shape

[JoeH]

The remote oil cooler is ungodly expensive and still needs air to move through the external radiator. I would expect worse performance at slow, rock crawling speeds. I also think it is a solution looking for a problem now that the EGR cooler/coolant issue is mostly understood. It also does not do well in cold climates. You can't get the oil hot enough and the 6.0 needs +180F for efficient combustion. Just my opinion. Edit to add: unless you tow heavy loads.

Having just finished a delete and replacement oil cooler (OEM) it's obvious the wiring harness get's cooked under the hood in the cramped engine bay of a van. The hood louver mod has just moved to the top of the list

Also, no issues with my turbo at 90K. But I had it reconditioned anyway with a 360 thrust bearing and a new, single-lane compressor wheel installed.

The 6.0 get's a bad wrap and some of it is deserved. But any diesel requires more maintenance and care than a gasser. It's not a set it and forget it type deal and it behooves any owner to learn what makes the thing tick and to be on top of the warning signs. I really like these engines.

[PatO]

Originally Posted by JoeH

The remote oil cooler is ungodly expensive and still needs air to move through the external radiator. I would expect worse performance at slow, rock crawling speeds. I also think it is a solution looking for a problem now that the EGR cooler/coolant issue is mostly understood. It also does not do well in cold climates. You can't get the oil hot enough and the 6.0 needs +180F for efficient combustion. Just my opinion. Edit to add: unless you tow heavy loads.
t4:

Yes it is expensive but it sure removes a lot of worry and monitoring. It comes with an optional 185 degree thermostat that I had installed. It takes about 10 freeway miles to reach that temperature under most weather conditions (San Diego). Mostly I run between 190 and 195. It does run a bit higher out in the desert with low airflow but nothing near as bad as the failing cooler it replaced. Slow, twisting, hairpin driving to the top of 14000 Mt Evans pushed it to the highest I've seen. Maybe around 220? I wasn't watching the temp gauge on that drive!

[flyfisher]

Daveb, do you have photos of your hood louvers?

Dumb question, but is there an issue with rain and water getting into the engine compartment? THAT would be a big deal up here in the Pacific Northwest....

The engine compartment in The Van gets hotter than the hubs on the wheels of the wagon from Hell in the Summer in Eastern Washington and Oregon, and I'd like to try to keep it cool. But am concerned about cutting louvers in the hood.

thanks...

Tom

[daveb]

nobody has complained about it yet. Being it hasn't rained much here it will be hard to say.

Here is an outside pic. I can shoot one of the inside but if you use the search and enter louvers you should get some good links.

[Sheriffdoug]

flyfisher,

daveb has a nice air scoop under front Aluminess bumper that also helps force air up through the engine bay as well.

I also like the idea of wrapping the headers with exhaust wrap/bandage to help for the exhaust heat of the engine.

But I don't beleive in chipping or increasing boost as this puts more strain/pressure on the engine, creating excessive heat. Accelerate with modest cation.

Many of these guys use Scan Gauges to monitor engine, diff, radiator, transmission, which is a good thing.

The bonnet air vents is one of the first things I'll get done on arrival in US.

Cheers.