Securing Wiring to E350 Frame

[Timerider]

Also, I probably should have mentioned that the MS-21919-DG clamps are even LESS expensive than the MS-21919-WDG ones, both from Aircraft Spruce, and the only difference is that the rubber on the -DG clamps lacks a small rubber "nib" to create a form-fitting 360-degrees-of-contact rubber pad that completely encircles the wire or tube.

In the pictures below, look at the shape of the end of the rubber at the right-angle bend in the aluminum clamp - there's only a slight difference, but the -WDG parts have the extra rubber "nib", and the -DG clamps don't, but are therefore much cheaper to manufacture, and cost about half of what the -WDG clamps do.

If you're not pulling 9 G's, the difference in form and function between a -DG and a -WDG clamp may not be worth the difference in cost.

MS219190DG:





MS21919-WDG:



(Notice the little rubber nib on the chloroprene rubber padding near the right-angle bend in the aluminum clamp.)

[Motorwerx]

Spent way too much time this weekend under the van inhaling all kinds of dust and dirt, but fingers crossed I've laid this project to bed. Had an issue late last night with a loose ground and haven't had time to test it today after tightening it, but the van fired up and no sparks or other issues.

I thought that securing the wiring to the frame would be the biggest hurdle, but routing the much thicker cables safely ended up being the most challenging part. For anyone tackling this in the future with the Custom Battery Cables kit for the 7.3, here are my two main takeaways:

1. Start removing the cables from the frame battery first, then the starter, then up to the engine ground, and finally the engine bay battery. I started at the top and got about halfway before realizing that the top battery cable has to come out through the top.
2. Secure the cables to the frame battery terminals first, then mount the cables to the frame. I tried to secure it to the frame first and ended up having to redo all my work. Here is what I ended up with though:
Original cables:



New cables:


I ended up using similar mounts to what Timerider recommended, but between closed off sections of the frame, and lack of holes in the frame for where I wanted them, I only ended up using two of them on the frame. I did end up using two in the engine bay though.



I've got some areas that I want to keep an eye on regarding rubbing and mounting points, but will wait until I am able to put some miles on it before worrying too much about them. Happy to answer any questions about the kit and thanks all for your recommendations!

[Timerider]

Looks good and solid!