Sheared front shock brackets

[JoeH]

Belize, I'm not sure if it will work with your shocks but my solution was to simply weld shock tabs directly to the axle. No issues in the 50,000 miles since then.

[pjpvi]

I dug through my files and found photos of mine.

Mine bent up as an apparent result of over extending. This is after Deaver springs were added and Deaver mods to shock plate including new shocks.





Here is a picture of the new SMB shock plate that is on its way to you that has gusset. Note that the shock plate is made of 2 plates. The top plate is bent over to accept the shock mount.



To repair mine, I had it bent back to 90 degrees and a shop laid a piece of rebar in and welded the snot out of it thereby creating a long gusset. I had them do the same to the other side at the same time.



Here's a compare of what I have on the van now and the SMB fix. Note Deaver had lowered the shock mounting point. When mine bent it hit the axle inner knuckle. That likely kept it from snapping off.



Of course, all this has reminded me of the problem I still have that my shocks do over extend and top out. I have around 100K miles on this repair and surprisingly, they haven't failed. I can guarantee they have over extended many times in that period (also says a lot about the durability of these shocks!). Maybe I'll add this project back to my list of things to address while I'm waiting out COVID. I know I could use new shocks and will take the time to set up everything correct when the time comes.

[ShuttlePilot]

My lower shock mounts are bent outward slightly as well. No where near as much as pjpvi. In my case I figure I have bent them from droop more than compression. Most likely due to the fact I'm driving at much higher speed off road from the improvements to the front suspension, to which the Agile shocks are a part of. Because of this limit straps have moved way up on the to do list.



- Eric

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by JoeH

Belize, I'm not sure if it will work with your shocks but my solution was to simply weld shock tabs directly to the axle. No issues in the 50,000 miles since then.

Prefab weld on shock tabs are readily available on line, but be aware that lowering the tabs will most likely require longer shocks if you are to avoid reducing the available droop, and stressing the shock itself. Or, you can install limit straps, but your still limiting droop. In addition, bump travel should be limited by bump stops, not the shock. If travel is limited in either direction by the shocks, hitting just one unexpected pot hole or "sleeping policeman" (I love that term) could result in shock, or mounting tab damage (as you have seen)
Best of luck.........

[Belize]

A couple quick questions (sorry, I am good with my hands but not a mechanic and doing this work myself):

1. Is that the steering damper that is attached to the passenger side shock mount? I can’t get the bolt out, it is completely frozen in. Any suggestions on how to remove it?

2. The u-bolts are slightly wider than the holes in the shock plate. What do you use to compress them to slide them through the bolt holes.

Thanks!

[PatO]

I think this is common. My driver side broke around year 10, It was in for a brake job when it was noticed. They fabricated a replacement as the one guy there really liked to weld! No issues since then. Back then I believe Fresno "Zombiemobile" had replacements available. I think washboard roads did me in plus a weak design.
Pat

[pjpvi]

Originally Posted by Belize

A couple quick questions (sorry, I am good with my hands but not a mechanic and doing this work myself):

1. Is that the steering damper that is attached to the passenger side shock mount? I can’t get the bolt out, it is completely frozen in. Any suggestions on how to remove it?

2. The u-bolts are slightly wider than the holes in the shock plate. What do you use to compress them to slide them through the bolt holes.

Thanks!

1. Mine didn't come from SMB with a steering stabilizer. Can you send a picture?

2. You should never re-use the u-bolts (at least that's what I've always been told), so if you need to cut them to remove you can do that.

[Belize]

Phil,

It is the bar that is in the the two photos you posted (see below). Can’t get that nut out. The u-bolts are no problem getting out, I am figuring how to get them back in as they are a bit wider than the distance between the holes in the plate

[pjpvi]

Originally Posted by Belize

Phil,

It is the bar that is in the the two photos you posted (see below). Can’t get that nut out. The u-bolts are no problem getting out, I am figuring how to get them back in as they are a bit wider than the distance between the holes in the plate

That isn't my photo, but I think what you are looking at in that photo is the
bottom of the shock. Photo is just rotated 90deg from how it would be installed.

That aside, not sure what to offer other than maybe some WD-40 and persuasion if it is a bit corroded?? I may not be understanding the problem.

[Belize]

Sorry Phil, you’re right, that is the shock. Am on assignment thru weekend again, will post photo of bar when I get back.