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Old 09-20-2020, 05:16 AM   #1
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Sheared front shock brackets

Yesterday, while driving on Belizean highways, I hit a speed bump (called "sleeping policeman" here) a little too fast. The bump was nothing harder than I've had before, but it sheared both front bottom shock brackets. These brackets sit on top of the leaf springs and have 4 bolts through them and the bump stop. The brackets are different for each side. Not sure how that happened as the bump stops on the bracket should have taken most of the force.

I have a 2006 Ford E350 4x4 modified by Sportsmobile. I also recently-3 months-installed Fox shocks by Agile.

1. Is this an unusual occurrence? Could the new shocks have something to do with the failure?
2. Are these stock brackets so I should be able to order a new pair (left and right are different)?
3. If they are custom, where can I order a pair? Will I have to go through Sportsmobile?
4. Can I get a pair manufactured here in Belize by a good metal manufacture shop? Or are the tolerances too specialized to be done by someone without that experience?

Thanks!
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25DD0902-4B8F-4751-A428-62512D36793E.jpg   6992DE49-A482-4BE0-AF2B-0E7E39420754.jpg  
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:58 AM   #2
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Are the shocks too long for the suspension travel? Do you still have the old shocks? Perhaps a comparison of compressed length will help answer why this happened.
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:15 AM   #3
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Don’t think the shocks are too long. They were bought from Agile after much back and forth and measurements. I would think Agile knows what they are doing. I have contacted Agile tho as they were installed in April 2020.

I can’t seem to find these brackets anywhere which make me think they are custom brackets from Sportsmobile?
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:09 AM   #4
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I think the shocks must have bottomed out before the bump stops too.
My van had a broken mount when I bought it.
I had a shop weld it and it was fine with normal driving until further repairs were made.
You will probably need to re weld them in a lower position or get different shocks.
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:40 AM   #5
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I agree that it bottomed out or the axle "over drooped" for the shock length. I had the same thing happen a long time ago on the passenger side (I think). I had it welded locally with some reinforcement added and has been good ever since (even with hitting more topes at speed than I care to admit on my trip earlier this year).

I have a new replacement I got from SMB kicking around here in a box somewhere that I never installed. If interested I could ship to you if I can find it. Probably just having yours welded / reinforced locally may be best?? You sure don't want to drive on it that way though! Would be good to double check compressed & extended lengths against axle travel too.

Sorry to say you are getting bit by all the standard SMB gotchas lately.
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:40 AM   #6
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With the wheels on the ground, measure the distance from the bump stop to the pad it lands on. Thats the maximum amount of available bump travel. Then measure the remaining amount of shock shaft showing. If the available amount of bump travel exceeds the shock travel, you have bottomed out. You can find the total amount of available travel (extended and collapsed) by looking up your model here: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/dl/off...2015-lores.pdf
Meanwhile, it looks like the mounts are mostly flat plate that should be pretty easy to fabricate locally, rather than trying to reweld, which may not be as strong as the original. Good luck...............
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:44 AM   #7
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Found my old post on this topic. Guess it was my driver side!
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Old 09-20-2020, 12:03 PM   #8
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My driver side broke as well while off roading around Tahoe and I found a shop there that did a repair. Seems a common issue. The new one they built is rock solid.
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:31 AM   #9
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I have seen lots of owners saying the rebuilt shock mounts are “rock solid” and Agile recommended adding gussets to the plate. I can not see how to add gussets as the break is right at the u-bolt holes and along the spring edge, doesn’t seem to be any room to weld on gussets. Can someone share a drawing of how to rebuild the plate to be rock solid? Where do you weld the gusset? Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2020, 09:02 AM   #10
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A known issue is that lower plate breaking. In my case it was after Jeff at Deaver re-welded the plate and shock tabs a bit lower to fit longer length Bilsteins.
I sourced new plates from Peter at SMB West. They were poorly fabricated with one of the holes for the axle ubolt too close to the bracket to fit a washer under the nut. Not good.
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