Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliesmom
I am going to try and remove the entire skin from the door and @boywonder’s suggestion, use high heat resistant (HHR) DAP (Weldwood) spray adhesive. It looks like it is available in a 14 OZ. spray on Amazon. Fingers crossed  |
Interesting, I've never seen the spray.....yes that's the right stuff....consider buying 2 cans...you may need them. You want to get a nice even coat on both surfaces.
The beauty of contact cement is the open time...don't stick the mating parts together until each glue surface has tacked up. ....test with your finger...if it's still gooey liquid you aren't ready.
Once the glue has tacked up you can apply within say a 30 minutes window or so..read the can.
The challenge is going to be getting the skin exactly lined up the the door.
The usual method is to have an oversized skin .....a few inches around all the sides (more if you are a beginner) then stick the parts togetehr then trim with a laminate trimmer.
If you've veneered or applied laminate before then you already know all this....
Around here the gallon is about $55 but you have to pretend that you are a professional to avoid a prison sentence. ...and the brush method would work just fine here but spray is easier.
There are several ways of getting the skin down without bubbles:
I usually (with a helper) start with the panel mostly vertical with the door on saw horses and align one end with the door then carefully roll (the motion is actually more like "unrolling") the skin on to the door, essentially squeezing all of the air out of the way as you unroll. The problem with this is that by the time you get to the opposite end of the door the odds of the skin being perfectly aligned are slim.
You can also place scrap sticks/dowels across the door spaced every foot or so.....then lay the skin on the dowels........the adhesive won't stick much to the dowels be it
WILL STICK to itself rather well......then
starting in the middle remove a dowel and press the skin to the door and continue working outboard to either end with the "unroll" technique to avoid air bubbles.
If you've stuck a little bit together you can pull apart and reposition......but once you get going there is no repositioning. ..Well you can heat gun the skin back off carefully and start over.
Once you've removed the skin for reapplying try acetone and a putty knife to clean off the old glue from both surfaces. If acetone won't do it heat gun and putty knife likely will...carefully.....without burning the skin.
Here is a tutorial thread I did years ago........
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ial-14419.html
Here is a youtube demonstrating the dowel/stick method:
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