Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen
... When I'm looking a the specs & comparing the electrical draw between similar units, what should I be looking at/for? I see info on amps, amp hours, watts, jiggawatts, Etc. I'm assuming this will be a concern when not hooked up to power or when driving.
Thx
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You want to compare what each fridge is drawing at amps-per-hour (usually APH). But this is a weird thing because compressor fridges aren’t always “on” meaning they’re only drawing amps when they’re actively cooling. So the manufacturers usually post numbers that describe an average draw and with modern chest-type fridges it’s usually in the 1-5 aph range. Looks like yours is running from 3-5 aph. The Dometic I have uses a little less 2 aph. The reason you care about this is because you’re not on shore power, you’re pulling amps out of your battery. So, if you have 100 amp hours available to you in your batteries (remember, only 50% is available from lead batteries; near-100% is available from lithiums), at 5 aph, you divide 100 amps by 5 amps and, theoretically, you can run the fridge for 20 hours. If your draw is 2.5 aph, you could run for 40 hours. Make sense? So, the lower your amp-per-hour draw, the more hours you can run your fridge.
As far as putting your batteries inside... yes, if they’re lithiums. A) no off-gassing issues and B) so much easier to work on and C) they’ll stay warmer so you won’t have charging issues.
https://www.snomasterusa.com/faqs/
I’m assuming that you don’t have the fridge yet and you’re building the cabinet before you get it. If I could make an obvious suggestion, it would be a heckuva lot easier to build it when you have the fridge. Then you don’t have to guess at anything and maybe tear it all out when you’ve guessed wrong. Don’t ask me how I know this.
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