SnoMaster Dual Zone Fridge/Freezer Questions

[Glen]

So, we've been happily living out of a YETI type ice chest while researching & saving up our money for a dual zone fridge. Based on the design we came up with for our layout, a chest type fridge/freezer is the best fit. It's going to be mounted to a sliding tray (via tie-down straps) that slides out from under the counter top. It's going to slide out sideways so it will fit under the counter top.

We are pretty sure the SnoMaster Expedition Series Dual Zone / Dual Lid is the one we are going with. We are leaning towards the EX85D, but may go with the EX67D. There isn't a big difference in price & the extra space may come in handy on those longer trips in Baja. So far, the reviews we've come across have been positive & I've got PMs out to a couple of members on this forum to see how they like theirs.

Other than making sure it's secure, the sliding tray it sits on is able to handle the weight of a full fridge, and enough ventilation around the unit, is there any other considerations I need to think about?

I'm going to try and have it sit over the rear wheel to help support the weight. I'm also going to try and figure out what a loaded fridge weighs so I can plan what will go across from it to help keep my weight balanced out. Most likely, it will be my house batteries, as I would also prefer to have them sit over the rear wheel & be inside the van... I think... Or, would I???

What would be considered enough room for adequate ventilation? I'm trying to figure out the depth I'll need to make the counter top on the fridge side of the van as I'm basically going with a walk-thru type layout. I don't necessarily need to have the counter tops on both sides of the van be the same depth. I'm pretty sure I'll also need to create some sort of ventilation in the counter top at the back right above the fridge.

If possible, should I insulate the compartment? If so, what should I use?
With the front being open so we can just slide the fridge out when accessing the top & then slide it back in when done, is it worth it to insulate? We are getting the insulated cover that is made for the fridge and I am thinking I'll put extra insulation between the interior wall and exterior wall in the area where the fridge will set.

I'm also at least starting to think about where I'll end up putting the heater. I would imagine as far away from the fridge as possible...

Any suggestions / do's & don'ts / Etc. is greatly appreciated.

[Twoxentrix]

I never had to go through the design process, but will provide some observations from experience
***Even though most of these fridges are considered "quiet", i would recommend insulation around the inside of the enclosure housing the unit
***Without knowing anything about the layout you've decided on, i would place the fridge as far from where you plan to sleep (as much distance from the head of any potential sleeping arrangement). Again, they are quiet, but in the dead of night they can be annoying if your head is positioned close by.
***I would install the largest version possible - cant ever have enough refrigerated space, and what doesnt fit will require keeping a cooler on hand anyway = now you have to deal with Ice replenishment every 2-3 days, and the footprint of the cooler...although I would suspect most still utilize a cooler anyway (I know I do). Cooler holds all the beverages, and the Fridge mostly meal solutions.

[REF]

I think that enclosure specs should be listed on their website, however, added ventilation and an insulation/thermal barrier in the back of the cabinet between the van wall and the unit never hurts. Have you looked at Truckfridge? Many of us, including myself have their fridge units, solid, but they also have a dual compartment unit like what you’re looking at and almost 1/2 the price, available slide mount as well.

https://www.truckfridge.com/product/tb65steel-dd/

[Glen]

Thanks REF, I'll check those out as I have not heard of them.

Also, I have an additional question regarding comparing these types of fridges. I have to first state that I was born without the ability to understand anything electric/solar. I've tried to learn, and people have tried to teach me, but it seems to be a lost cause...

When I'm looking a the specs & comparing the electrical draw between similar units, what should I be looking at/for? I see info on amps, amp hours, watts, jiggawatts, Etc. I'm assuming this will be a concern when not hooked up to power or when driving.

Thx

[KDB]

Glen, does the fridge slip forward width wise on the track? ... or lengthwise? The vent for the fridge is on the rt end side so make sure (as im sure you have) that the gets lots of breathability.

[86Scotty]

Hard to believe this was 4 years ago. I think I've bought and owned 6 Truckfridges now. My old faithful that is in the back seat of my pick up is a giant TB74 (74 liter) like the steel box ones in the thread. It's the one I bought that day. The compressor is finally starting to rattle from miles and miles of washboard and countless moves from this vehicle to that.

I think they have a second location in CA now.

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...any-17937.html

Just FYI, I'm just a fan. I think they are by far the best value in DC fridges. All Truckfridges are rebranded Vitrifrigo and IndelB units, both Italian companies that have been making them forever. They all have the Danfoss/Secop compressor pretty much every decent fridge maker uses these days, with Engel being the exception.

Anyway, there are lots of posts here on DC fridges, including Truckfridge, and many many more if you care to dig on Expedition Portal.

[86Scotty]

But back to your questions.... Any of these steel chest type fridges are going to be heavy. Mine weighs 61lbs. EMPTY! They are pretty heavily insulated as they come, much more insulated than any front door RV fridge I've ever seen. I would not bother with any added insulation if I were you. Mine stays cold enough if I unplug it overnight after a day of it running. I've done this a few times on less robust battery systems. Keep in mind I'm talking about TF, not Snomaster, but they look identical to me.

As for ventilation on any of these chest fridges just note the vents on the box and don't cover them. Open space around is not needed but a couple inches helps. On the TF chest models I've seen the condenser fan is located by the rear vents. Your idea of an open space behind is a good one if the Snomaster is laid out the same way. A couple inches will do.

Balancing one of these over your wheels with battery system across is a good plan.

As for your heater I would locate it as centrally as you can. If you have a penthouse/pop top I would make sure it is under it where heat doesn't get trapped say, at the rear of the van without being able to rise. I had this problem on one of my vans with a CCV pop top and the furnace mounted towards the rear. It would get terribly hot in my daughters rear bunk by the heater and be cold up top.

[Glen]

Originally Posted by KDB

Glen, does the fridge slip forward width wise on the track? ... or lengthwise? The vent for the fridge is on the rt end side so make sure (as im sure you have) that the gets lots of breathability.

We want, or should I say "have to" (based on our anticipated layout) have the fridge slide out in what I would call a sideways fashion. Not like you see in most rear door access applications. I don't see any problem creating enough airflow space around the unit as I can make the space for it as big as I need to. I'm just trying to figure out how much airflow space so I can figure out how deep my counter top will end up being. Maybe 1 1/2 to 2" all the way around? I'm also figuring I'll need to create some sort of vent in the counter top at the back where it meets the interior wall. That should be as simple as drilling some small holes in the counter top at the back, right above the fridge.

[Glen]

Thanks 86Scotty!!! Definitely some things to consider.

And yes, I checked out Expedition Portal. In fact, I spent soooo much time there yesterday that I felt a little guilty when my wife asked what I was doing that was keeping me glued to my computer screen for so long

That's the first place I found some negative reviews on the SnoMaster. Seems like the biggest complaint is the amount of power they draw.

[BroncoHauler]

When I read SnoMaster, my mind always thinks you're going to bring along a sno-cone machine. That could be fun.




Herb