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Old 10-01-2020, 11:55 AM   #11
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Might not be on your pro/con list but the first thing I thought of when reading this thread was how heavy my 270/70-18s with aluminum rims were when rotating the other day on nice smooth flat concrete...I would not want these things any heavier changing one offroad, in the uneven dirt.
Steve I hear ya on the weight. I think steels are 5# more? At around 65# every pound counts so I don't disagree with you. Seems like with steel ur more likely to suffer an event but less likely to be catastrophic but there's a lot of conflicting opinions
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Old 10-01-2020, 11:59 AM   #12
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Steel, while I understand what you're saying is just so old school.
How many Baja and race off-road race vehicles of just about any kind, do you see with steel wheels?? The modern alloy rims are super strong and rugged. And are able to withstand quite an amount of abuse
The post above is fairly accurate I've been able to pound steel and aluminum back to hold air when I didn't have a spare but that was when I was frankly a idiot not to carry a spare and I have 2 spares on a van.
Either way they need to be replaced or repaired.
Last rim I bent was an aluminum one which I hit a rock at 40 mph ... It was just lip damage (deformation) which would have crushed a steel rim I was able to sledgehammer it enough to carry air. But that was 35 years ago and I've never had a damaged alloy rim since I'm a lot more careful.
I'm just talking about your average steel not the big military conversion setups that some have done that's a totally different story I don't think you can bend those outside of a cannon attack.
Va, I figured Baja racers want the weight savings and have plenty of backup if a wheel broke. Good to know you are confidant with 4 wheeling with alloy. Seems like from what I'm reading alloy is less likely to have a minor event but more like to be catastrophic if it has one. Thank u for ur help
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Old 10-04-2020, 07:48 AM   #13
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Steel, while I understand what you're saying is just so old school.
How many Baja and race off-road race vehicles of just about any kind, do you see with steel wheels?? The modern alloy rims are super strong and rugged. And are able to withstand quite an amount of abuse
The post above is fairly accurate I've been able to pound steel and aluminum back to hold air when I didn't have a spare but that was when I was frankly a idiot not to carry a spare and I have 2 spares on a van.
Either way they need to be replaced or repaired.
Last rim I bent was an aluminum one which I hit a rock at 40 mph ... It was just lip damage (deformation) which would have crushed a steel rim I was able to sledgehammer it enough to carry air. But that was 35 years ago and I've never had a damaged alloy rim since I'm a lot more careful.
I'm just talking about your average steel not the big military conversion setups that some have done that's a totally different story I don't think you can bend those outside of a cannon attack.
VA, J and all, thank u for your help. I've been researching ur suggestion. How do u tell fake from real beadlocks? Are there types of fake ones to avoid? Seems the bolts can be in different places. And I confused on if the fake ones are removable or sometimes??? Thanks for any help, anyone!
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Old 10-04-2020, 09:22 AM   #14
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Aluminum wheels have a worse failure mode when abused. In my case, I was overloading my Alcoas by 500 pounds each. But I've also bent a half dozen steelies....

Aluminum wheels are less likely to be damaged aside from overloading, but may not be repairable depending on the damage.

Aluminum wheels can save 5-15 pounds per corner, which can make a huge difference in ride quality, especially on washboard roads.

If you have wide tires, Aluminum wheels are probably the only option within the fitment specs of you tire.

IMO - Beadlock wheels probably aren't all that useful on a van. Vans weigh too much to drop the tire pressure low enough where beadlocks might help. And, up until now, finding an HD beadlock hasn't been possible. But Sypderlock now makes one rated at 3,200 pounds which would fine for an RB van, and a lighter Ford EB van, but might not cut it for a full EB camper buildout. Also, most "bead-lock" wheels are "bead-lock appearance" only. True bead-locks have a removable ring or face that hold the tire on the wheel, rather than mounting the tire over the rim.

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Old 10-04-2020, 08:17 PM   #15
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https://www.motometalwheels.com/prod...-machined-face
carring thank you for all that. You or anyone have thoughts on the functionality of these? They have a load rating of 3000lb. Is that a false beadlock? The bl would be considered for adding rim strength offroad.
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Old 10-04-2020, 08:39 PM   #16
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https://www.motometalwheels.com/prod...-machined-face
carring thank you for all that. You or anyone have thoughts on the functionality of these? They have a load rating of 3000lb. Is that a false beadlock? The bl would be considered for adding rim strength offroad.
Those are not a beadlock wheel. And appear to have a much shallower lip/rim than other alloy wheels. These would not be my first choice for a wheel that might might encounter rocks.

I'd look for something with a little more metal around the edge, like these (note - these are faux beadlocks as well):
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:14 PM   #17
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Those are not a beadlock wheel. And appear to have a much shallower lip/rim than other alloy wheels. These would not be my first choice for a wheel that might might encounter rocks.

I'd look for something with a little more metal around the edge, like these (note - these are faux beadlocks as well):
Yeah those look good. You mean more metal near the edges as in more spoke making contact with the barrel? I'm having trouble finding 8 or 8.5 in a 17 with 8x6.5 in something like that. My inner clearance is going to be tight I think. May be able to do 9s. Thanks carring
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:48 PM   #18
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I don't usually push the brand, but Method has quite a few that fit the bill: https://www.methodracewheels.com/collections/all
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Old 10-05-2020, 07:11 AM   #19
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Yeah those look good. You mean more metal near the edges as in more spoke making contact with the barrel?
Yeah, you'll want more metal near the edges. The rest of the design isn't as critical IMO, since they're all load-rated, so you should be fine as long as you don't overload it. But at the edges, where contact with objects is possible, more metal will just be more durable.

FWIW - I had a set of wheels with a edge-casting similar to what you posted, and did break a chunk out of one.

I have now have Ultra Goliath wheels, and they've been on for about 270,000 miles without issue. I run my fronts as low as 8 psi, and rears at 15 psi, and have never slipped a bead.

Beadlocks looks cool, but unless you're running regularly at single-digit psi, the tradeoffs aren't worth it IMO. For one, there's not many that are DOT-rated, some states techinally don't allow them on the road, and you're likely to have NVH issues at highway speed. Plus, beadlocks need to be regularly torque-checked, or marked with torque-seal, or you rick losing the locking ring on the highway.

F150 Raptors have a neat bead-lock-ready wheels. From the factory, the ring serves as a bash-guard, and it can be swapped for a true bead-lock ring. But I'm not aware of an equivalent 8-lug version. Maybe the Tremor F250 will offer it soon.
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:25 AM   #20
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What do y'all think of the functionality of these? Looks like the spoke reinforces the rim lip a bit and maybe those fake beadlocks too if those are real bolts. Weight capacity is 3200. I like Raceline 949s, Ultra Rogue, XD 132 but either can't find them in 17x8", 8x6.5, or the b/s or o/s poke out more than 1" or may risk inner clearance imo. With others help, I'm trying for 4.5 b/s, 0 to 10 o/s on 2857017s on 3500 express with 2-3" blocks in back, raised body mounts to level in front I think. THANK YA for your thoughts
https://www.xdwheels.com/product/whe...sh=matte-black
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