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06-27-2019, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 76
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synthetic oil
I have been paying to have my oil done forever. I know this is a simple thing to do but it was one of those items I had put on my no longer want to do list. I have the infamous diesel 6.0 2006 (so good so far). It has been suggested in this forum and by others that it is recommended to use a fully synthetic oil to help lower the chances of the egr problems associated with this engine. I have decided to offset the extra cost of synthetic oil by doing my own oil changes. There are so many brands of synthetics that vary greatly in cost. Hoping one of you might have an educated referral to a specific brand. OEM filter? I am in the lower percentile of this group when it comes to diesel know how.
Thanks so much
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06-27-2019, 12:44 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,001
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Definitely go OEM on the filters. Both fuel and oil. I source them from https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...l-filters.html
I run Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic in my 6.0.
__________________
2005 E350 RB 6.0 PSD for extended fun
1989 Landcruiser FJ62 for local fun
2011 VW TDI Golf for hwy fun
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06-27-2019, 01:12 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 633
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I will second exactly what JoeH said. And I will reiterate the practice of always using OEM filters.
- Eric
__________________
2005 SMB RB 4x4 6.0 PSD
A rocket on the pad is safe,
but it's not what rockets are built for.
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06-27-2019, 01:55 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 76
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Thank you Joe and Shuttle pilot. Ordering now.
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06-27-2019, 02:22 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Durango, CO formerly Seattle
Posts: 177
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FWIW, my brother is a Certified Lubrication Specialist and says none of the "full synthetic" oils are truly fully synthetic but Mobil 1 comes closest. And he works for Chevron, but runs Mobil 1 in his rig.
__________________
Bardo
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2005 RB-50 5.4L V8 E250 "Blanca"
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06-27-2019, 02:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,378
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Its easy to get caught up in all the "6.0 cautions"...Since I put in a new engine 4 years ago, I vowed to be as proactive as possible, now probably one of those considered to have gone overboard.
I've only use Amsoil (I also have the dual Amsoil bypass filter), and have a set of filter magnets that adhere to the outside of one of the filters. I use Turbo maxx as an oil additive with each change.
Magnets: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...00pr?rrec=true
Additive: https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Maxx-po...262EHETEH9VGC2
__________________
TwoXentrix
"AWOL"
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07-02-2019, 11:04 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Turlock Ca
Posts: 10,409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twoxentrix
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Interesting about the magnets. Have you ever cut open a filter to see if it attracts any metal?
I've ran the AMSOIL the duel filter system since brand new but didn't start using their oil until the engine had about 5K on the odometer. Did the recommended flush and started to use AMSOIL. At about 20K I sent in an oil sample to a lab and the report came back as a bad injector. Of course Ford wouldn't do anything about it until it failed a few weeks later. I changed the oil every 5-8K miles and did oil samples every other change. Never had any issues. I did use Hot Shot but now run Archoil additives in the oil. I started to use the Ford Cetane booster after the injector failure as the EGR was dirty and they suggested using their stuff. I now use Archoil fuel additive.
When they pulled the engine to bulletproof the motor (at 92K) the shop said the engine looked brand new. I know a lot of people don't like Fords coolant but I just replace it more often than what Ford recommends plus I have a coolant filter.
__________________
2006 Ford 6.0PSD EB-50/E-PH SMB 4X4 Rock Crawler Trailer
Sportsmobile 4X4 Adventures.......... On and off road adventures
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07-02-2019, 12:42 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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synthetic makes my already leaky 7.3 even worse. anyone else notice that with their diesels? was warned about it by the lab assistant in our diesel program. didn't think much of it till the typical non synthetic rotella I usually get was out of stock and bought full synthetic. the ole cows spotting habits increased considerably. when this stuff is wore out, im going back to the regular rotella.
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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07-02-2019, 01:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb
Interesting about the magnets. Have you ever cut open a filter to see if it attracts any metal?
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Never actually cut one of my filters open, but bought the magnets more as an added measure of protection.
Did look at several video's from people that did cut them open and was quite surprised how well they worked (No telling what shape those engines were in from which they pulled the filters, just suspect they chose power-plants with issues to showcase the potential of the magnets) - That was good enough for me.
I religiously use DIESEL KLEEN fuel additive, along with Howes Lubricator. I've been changing the Transmission, Coolant, Both differentials, and Atlas Trans case every 15,000 miles...basically once a year.
__________________
TwoXentrix
"AWOL"
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07-02-2019, 04:15 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shenrie
synthetic makes my already leaky 7.3 even worse. anyone else notice that with their diesels?
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Yeah, that's a pretty common thing with any oil leak... dino oils usually have a higher viscosity than synthetic, for the same advertised weight. It's a problem with transaxles as well.
I've driven 'leakers' where I'd add a pint of STP oil treatment to every oil change, to slow down the bleeding.
__________________
1995 E350 7.3 Diesel, 4x4 high roof camper, UJOR 4" lift
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