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Old 08-14-2017, 12:48 AM   #21
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Wallas Nordic DT Stove Installation

The stove is now temp'd in. Clearances were very tight--an eighth inch here and there made all the difference.

The stove is designed to be dropped into a countertop with no insulation at all. Being a belt and suspenders girl, I couldn't quite go there, so I am using an automotive heat shield, rated at 1000 degrees, all around. Probably overkill, but I won't ever worry about fire, so that works for me.

In the photos, you can see the Heatshield wrapping over the countertop. I won't stick it down until I have everything complete. Right now, I have some aluminum flat bar under the stove lip, on to of the Heatshield; when I am finally done, the aluminum will be replaced with a stainless steel trim plate all around that will cover the Heatshield and wrap down to the countertop. It won't match the sink perfectly, but it will be the same idea.

So far, so good. Next up is electrical, exhaust, and fuel.

This photo shows the Heatshield cut to fit. I also added more Heatshield on the left and right sidewalls of the compartment.


Stove in place; temporary aluminum flat bar partially covering the Heatshield. It will do until I get the stainless steel trim plate done.


This is what it looks like with the lid up. With the lid down, it is a cabin heater; with the lid up, it is a cooktop with a fully enclosed flame.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glider View Post
The stove is now temp'd in. Clearances were very tight--an eighth inch here and there made all the difference.

The stove is designed to be dropped into a countertop with no insulation at all. Being a belt and suspenders girl, I couldn't quite go there, so I am using an automotive heat shield, rated at 1000 degrees, all around. Probably overkill, but I won't ever worry about fire, so that works for me.

In the photos, you can see the Heatshield wrapping over the countertop. I won't stick it down until I have everything complete. Right now, I have some aluminum flat bar under the stove lip, on to of the Heatshield; when I am finally done, the aluminum will be replaced with a stainless steel trim plate all around that will cover the Heatshield and wrap down to the countertop. It won't match the sink perfectly, but it will be the same idea.

So far, so good. Next up is electrical, exhaust, and fuel.

This photo shows the Heatshield cut to fit. I also added more Heatshield on the left and right sidewalls of the compartment.


Stove in place; temporary aluminum flat bar partially covering the Heatshield. It will do until I get the stainless steel trim plate done.


This is what it looks like with the lid up. With the lid down, it is a cabin heater; with the lid up, it is a cooktop with a fully enclosed flame.

This is looking pretty nice. I am looking forward to your review once it is up and running.
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:52 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=Glider;209605]The stove is designed to be dropped into a countertop with no insulation at all. Being a belt and suspenders girl, I couldn't quite go there, so I am using an automotive heat shield, rated at 1000 degrees, all around. Probably overkill, but I won't ever worry about fire, so that works for me.Quote]

I like the heat shield idea. My stove was installed without any insulation and it's directly over the fridge. As soon as I lit the burner, the refer would start and run continously as long as the stove was on. So, I removed it and put a layer of fiberglass insulation covered with a layer of heavy duty aluminum foil over the top of the refer. That seemed to reduce the refer running time by about half. I'd be interested to know if you think your heat shield would be a better insulator, I've never used the stuff.
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:42 PM   #24
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I think 86Scotty has some competition if you ever decide to moonlight as a van converter. Nice work.


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Old 08-20-2017, 03:52 AM   #25
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I think 86Scotty has some competition if you ever decide to moonlight as a van converter. Nice work.

Herb
[QUOTE=arctictraveller;209626]
Quote:
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I'd be interested to know if you think your heat shield would be a better insulator, I've never used the stuff.
Herb, thanks for your kind words.

Arctic--I'll let you know what I think about the stuff after I've had some experience with it.
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:53 AM   #26
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I finished the exhaust and fuel installations today, and I'm a happy girl. The photos below show the exhaust installation. I'll do a separate post for the fuel.

Here's the section of the exhaust in the stove compartment. According to Wallas, the exhaust exits the stove at 400 degrees, and cools from there. Not even paper will burn at 400 degrees--it needs 454 degrees to ignite--so the exhaust line theoretically should not be able to burn anything. Wallas supplies a fiberglass sock to cover the exhaust for extra protection. So I installed the fiberglass sock...and then wrapped it with a second layer of 1/8" fiberglass exhaust wrap. Overkill? As usual with me, yes. But I'll never worry about burning up my van, so it works for me.



I had fun with the bulkhead penetration. I drilled a 2.5" hole through the bulkhead, and then I wrapped the exhaust line with six layers of the 1/8" fiberglass exhaust wrap right in the area where the exhaust line passes through the bulkhead. You can see the wide wrap sticking through on the sink side of the photo. It sticks through on the other side as well; just not as visible. With that heavy wrap right there, the exhaust line is positioned perfectly in the center of the 2.5" hole, and it can't move. With that much insulation, it also can't burn anything.




This is the hole in the floor, with the exhaust line running through it. The red is the metal of the van floor, which I painted with some primer for protection. The wood subfloor and carpet are cut in a 2.5" diameter hole.



I did the same "bulk wrap" at the floor end of the exhaust line as I did at the bulkhead. The bulk wrap provides a ton of insulation between the exhaust and the carpet--and it keeps the exhaust line centered in the hole, as well.
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Old 08-20-2017, 04:19 AM   #27
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The fuel system was interesting to do. My van is a gasser, and the stove burns diesel, so resolving that issue was the first order of business. John McKee, of Quadvan, gets the credit for coming up with the idea that I decided to use.

I installed a 2.5 gallon RotoPax diesel tank on my rear bulkhead, inside the van. Someday, when I have the Aluminess setup, I'll move the tank to the inside face of the Aluminess box, but for now, the tank is just fine inside the back door. I ran the fuel line directly into the wall cavity at the rear of the van, then fished it forward to the stove location. The fishing was...interesting. There were a handful of un-ladylike words involved at various points along the way.

Here's the RotoPax tank, mounted on the rear bulkhead.




I made a little backing plate for the RotoPax mount using some sheet aluminum I had:



Fuel line disappearing into the wall cavity, and before I cleaned up and made things neat:



And here's the fuel line coming out of the wall cavity and connected up to the stove. My fish string is still in the wall in this photo. I had some trouble getting the fuel line pulled through the hole at this end. It has a largish fitting on the end, and I could not manage to get it to wiggle through my original half inch hole. So I enlarged the hole, but I didn't do a particularly lovely job of it. Sigh.



The Wallas fuel line comes set up to be used with a different fuel tank, so I had to make some gaskets in order to adapt it to the RotoPax tank:






One thing I discovered today: Using a Forstner bit to do the first 1/8" of each hole in the SMB bulkhead and wall material made for very clean cuts, with no damage to the surface laminate. Drill bits aren't bad, but the Forstner bit makes a significantly cleaner cut.

Coming up: electrical installation. I already have an 8ga wire pulled, starting at the fuse box under the driver's side gaucho, and ending in my passenger side rear cabinet. I'll need to pull it just a bit further, up into the stove cabinet, then install the control panel, and hook everything up. It should be fun!
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:11 AM   #28
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Solid install.
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:51 PM   #29
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It is a great install. Have you put diesel in the Rotopax yet? Diesel is a great fuel, but the odor permeates everything.


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Old 08-20-2017, 11:24 PM   #30
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It is a great install. Have you put diesel in the Rotopax yet? Diesel is a great fuel, but the odor permeates everything.


Herb
Not yet. I asked ScanMarine about that before I bought the stove. They told me they have installed these stoves on hundreds of boats, and many use a system similar to mine, with a two gallon day tank inside the boat's cabin. They told me that they have seen no issues with odor.

If for any reason there is an odor from the RotoPax tank, then that will be motivation for me to get my Aluminess bumper sooner, and mount the RotoPax on the inside face of the box. That would be fine, too. But I'm going to start with this. If it works in a sailboat, there is a reasonable chance it will work in an SMB.

I'll let you know what I find out.
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