The Silver Streak

[Glider]

The stove installation is now complete, with the exception of the stainless steel top trim plate and some cabinetry work. But I fired it up today, and I am very impressed with how beautifully it functions. This is a well-engineered stove. And it definitely puts out a lot of heat!

I decided to take Herb's comments to heart, and I vented the RotoPax to the exterior. That leaves no options for any diesel smell in the van, and--despite it being a very hot day today--I had no odor issues at all. Thanks, Herb. That was worth doing.

With two wraps of insulation on the exhaust line, the temperature on the outside surface of the wrap was about 150 degrees. Not cool enough to leave my hand on, but certainly not hot enough to do any damage to anything, so I am very happy with how that worked out.

Overall, I am delighted with the installation, and I am looking forward to using the stove!

RotoPax vent line now goes through the floor:



The stove, installed and working. I'm going to use it for a bit before I install finishes.

[Otter]

What a great job you did on the stove! I had the Wallas in my C-Dory a few years back, a gas-powered boat, and absolutely loved that thing. It heated my cabin in minutes in mid-winter and cooked the occasional meal. My small diesel tank was also located inboard and I never smelled an odor once. If I put heat in my van, I would use it again. Perhaps we could visit sometime if you'd be willing to give me a tour of your terrific work. (I'm in NE PDX).

Enjoy the fruits of your labor!



Kath
.

[Glider]

Hey Kath! Thanks for your kind words. I am really enjoying the stove so far.

I'd love to swap tours of our respective vans. I make it down to PDX on occasion; let's stay in touch and make plans the next time I'm out your way.

Bianca

[Glider]

I had to pull a couple of cabinet doors off in order to complete my stove installation, and I was concerned that the removal and re-installation of the hinge screws would weaken the existing holes in the fiberboard cabinetry. (Side note: I really wish SMB would use better materials for their cabinetry.)

I wanted to insert my screws into structural epoxy, not fiberboard, so I did the following:

1. Drill out the screw holes to 3/16".

2. Fill the holes with structural epoxy.

3. Insert a short section of 1/8" dowel into the center of the epoxy-filled hole.

4. Drill down the center of the dowel to create a new screw hole.

5. Reinstall the cabinet doors.

I am pretty happy with the end result.

A few notes:

a. The reason I put the dowel in the center of the hole was to provide a soft center to drill down. Due to the fact that the epoxy is harder than the fiberboard, my concern was that if I filled the hole with epoxy alone, when I re-drilled the hole, the drill would want to slip over into the soft fiberboard instead of coring the center of the harder epoxy.

b. My first iteration used toothpicks as the "creamy center" instead of the 1/8" dowel that I used in the second iteration. The toothpicks were great, but it was really tough to drill right down the toothpick without slipping off. The dowel makes for an easier drill.

c. In order to make it easy to start the drill on the end grain of the dowel, I drilled a starter hole in the end of each piece of dowel using a Dremel 118 cutter and a drill press jig.

d. I used West System G/flex Epoxy #655, and a long-nosed syringe to insert the epoxy into the bottom of the drilled out hole.

Epoxy and long-nosed syringe:


Drill press, Dremel 118 cutter, and 1/8" dowel in jig to create starter hole in end of dowel


Dowel centered in 3/16" hole, with starter hole in place to center the drill. Next step is to drill out the dowel for the hinge screw, and put the door back on.

[Glider]

I plugged a Beaver Step into my rear receiver last week, and I love it. It makes a much easier step to use than just the receiver itself, so it makes getting into and out of the back of the van a real pleasure. I load my bike in and out of the van all the time, and the step makes that a lot easier, too.

I went ahead and got a locking pin, and I added a StowAway anti-rattle device, which works like a charm. Happy camper.

I doubt anyone is going to be tempted to bump my rear now, as well.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by Glider

I plugged a Beaver Step into my rear receiver last week, and I love it.

My shin hurts just looking at that, thinking about how badly I'd run into it.

Regardless, you might want to add some non-skid to it so you don't slip.


Herb

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by Glider

I had to pull a couple of cabinet doors off in order to complete my stove installation, and I was concerned that the removal and re-installation of the hinge screws would weaken the existing holes in the fiberboard cabinetry. (Side note: I really wish SMB would use better materials for their cabinetry.)......

No doubt! That is an ingenious fix! How did it work out?

[gahamby]

I'm with you on the screws and MDF problem. In my old edition of the West System Book they describe a method of putting fasteners into cored boat decks that involves drilling a hole larger than the machine screw fastener and filling it with epoxy.
You then put a mold release wax coated machine into the hole and let the epoxy cure. You should be able to back the screw out and have a machine threaded epoxy hole. If the screw wants to stick you can warm it up with a soldering iron and it will come loose.
I have done this on my boat successfully but not on the SMB yet.