Trim my Pinch Weld

[Brightlights]

I have searched the forum for threads on how to trim the pinch weld. I suppose I could just "GET INTO IT" and figure it out. However, if someone has done it on the front of an E350, and wants to share some of their DOs and DONTs. I would be very appreciative.

BTW, i searched youtube, but could only find videos for Jeeps. Any links you wanna share, send 'em. Thank you.

[86Scotty]

Don't listen to your inner self which tells you not to cut up a good vehicle body. Do get out the sawzall and fire away. It's a 20 year old van at least (guessing average for most of us) and there is no way you're going to get the clearance you want otherwise. Plus, are you going to ever be happy with the van without the tires you want on it? Are you expecting this will impact resale? I suspect no on these two questions.

There are two ways to accomplish it without cutting , both more expensive, time consuming and difficult. First is to move the front axle forward, second is to get those crafty fiberglass pre-runner looking front quarters that someone here made awhile back. I can't remember who did it.

I recently trimmed mine on my 2011 for 35"s. Basically remove the Bushwacker, if you have it, remove the inner liner or take screws out of rear and fold it up out of the way with the help of some bungees or whatever, and then figure out how much you need to trim. I trimmed back a triangle about an inch wide but maybe 2-3 inches long on mine and then gently hammered/bent/folded the metal until I was happy. Then painted my mess to ward off rust and reapplied Bushwacker. I did have to manipulate the fender flare and add a couple of screws to get it back where I wanted it. Sadly I have no pics.

After I did this, of course, I was talking to MG (Metalworks) and he reminded me that I could've used a heat gun to very easily reshape the Bushwacker. I might still do that one day when I run out of other projects but I have no rub.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Don't listen to your inner self which tells you not to cut up a good vehicle body. Do get out the sawzall and fire away.

I was able to procure a pile (two sets) for beer money of 285/70-17 BFG TA KO2's (33").

There are a couple of 265/70-17 (32") in the bunch but I basically decided to get as much clearance as feasible out of the front fenders without and costly lift. I do plan on swapping out the front springs and adding 1" blocks with airbags to the rear.

Looking at the NorCVal mods, they are mostly to add larger tires Without Lifting. So that is the path I'm going to start down.

I have seen some pictures that the pinch weld on the rear wheel well can also be a problem. My 255 rear tires on 17x8" wheels with no C/L offset have rubbed the inner well. So I'm hoping that sticking with the 8" wide wheels will keep the added (1cm) tire width tucked in.

I have the fenders off of my totaled 1997 E-350 and have spare fenders to practice some cuts. It is on the list of things to do but unfortunately a few months off.
Once you get into it it looks like there are 2" available.

[86Scotty]

Cool, I can't remember if you need to trim for 33"s or not, probably not 32"s.

I forgot to mention something above. There is one bolt right behind the pinch weld that holds the bottom of the front fender in place. I removed it and redrilled about an inch behind it where there is a handy flat spot perfect for that hole/bolt. This was necessary for me with 35"s and Quigley/RIP front height since my trim removed the original bolt/hole location.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Cool, I can't remember if you need to trim for 33"s or not, probably not 32"s.

I forgot to mention something above. There is one bolt right behind the pinch weld that holds the bottom of the front fender in place. I removed it and redrilled about an inch behind it where there is a handy flat spot perfect for that hole/bolt. This was necessary for me with 35"s and Quigley/RIP front height since my trim removed the original bolt/hole location.

The van is on jack stands at the moment, so I was only able to stand the 285/70-17 tire next to the stock (mounted) 245/75-16 and they really fill up the front wheel wells. So I'm pretty sure both the fender (rear) and bumper need to be cut.

As mentioned I'm just going to go for the most opening I can going back to the base of the pitch weld. I also was wondering how to best deal with that lower bolt as it seemed to be a limiting factor beyond the pitch weld.

I'm glad you mentioned being able to modify the Bushwackers with a maximum opening because I was wondering about that.

The truck guys seem to be perfectly happy chopping up new trucks, but people here seem less willing to show their handiwork for oversized tires. People here seem more likely to get higher lifts for bigger tires rather than focus on more fender surgery.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

There is one bolt right behind the pinch eld that holds the bottom of the front fender in place. I removed it and redrilled about an inch behind it where there is a handy flat spot perfect for that hole/bolt. This was necessary for me with 35"s and Quigley/RIP front height since my trim removed the original bolt/hole location.

I forgot to ask how you dealt with the fender sheet metal. If you bend the fender back to the base of the pinch-weld, do you just beat it back? or trim and cut the fender so it wraps more "nicely" ?

It seems like there is just too much fender metal to just beat it back (to the pinch weld base) unless you can hide the crumpled mess behind the Bushwacker.

[arctictraveller]

Here you go https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ers-18043.html

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

Here you go https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ers-18043.html

Thank you, I had not thought of doing it that way.

I have been watching Bad Chad who is a little long-winded but is showing step-by-step how to do body work. Last night I watched a video with a surprising result when doing butt welds.

Basically, if you butt the sheet metal direct against each other and well/grind it flat there is no strength. You need to allow for a small gap (e.g. 0.050") so that you guarantee penetration with substantial strength. The close butt weld does not do it. This also explains how and why to use the small butt weld clamps.

https://www.harborfreight.com/butt-w...oaAgrLEALw_wcB

I don't recall which video it was but it probably over-dramatizes the result but still makes a good point


https://www.youtube.com/@BadChad/videos


One thing I have been cringing at is watching guys using old-school transformer welders (e.g. Miller matic) spot welding. The welder leaves huge deposits of metals and black soot that they need to grind off.

My Harbor Freight 170 Mig (120/220) makes great little spot welds on lap joints. It is IGBT based and I can dial it down to do pretty thin stuff.

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by posplayr

I forgot to ask how you dealt with the fender sheet metal. If you bend the fender back to the base of the pinch-weld, do you just beat it back? or trim and cut the fender so it wraps more "nicely" ?

It seems like there is just too much fender metal to just beat it back (to the pinch weld base) unless you can hide the crumpled mess behind the Bushwacker.

Read the third paragraph of my post (2) above again and see if that helps. I'm not sure how else I can explain it. There isn't too much fender to bend/beat back. And yes, basically I hid the mess behind the Bushwacker but I did paint spray paint it first. I did remove fender completely or properly fill, sand and paint fender like RallyPanam did in the link. Also, I did not remove nearly as much material as it looks like he did.

You are right though. There are not a lot of pics around of the actual modification of these things by van folks. I've done it to 2 or 3 vans and just never think to take pics.

Next time I've got the van on the lift I'll take some pics of my finished product under there but with the flares back on I don't think it will show much.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Next time I've got the van on the lift I'll take some pics of my finished product under there but with the flares back on I don't think it will show much.

Thanks

As I have probably mentioned my 1997 E-350 was totaled and has both fenders off (i thought I would be able to have the frame straightened but in the end, it was too much). Now that I see the cut and weld approach, I will try and figure out what the actual size of that pie cut is that puts the wrap of the inner fender back to the bottom of the pinch weld.

I don't have Bushwacker at the moment, but see there is really no reason to extend the fender cut beyond a rearward sweep toward the bottom. It will all be covered by the Bushwacker.

I will try and do some photos including showing my welds. I'm not an expert but doing more and more practice.

The fenders on my 2000 E350 XLT will still have to wait as there is a backlog of projects as it currently stands.