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Old 02-04-2020, 05:27 AM   #1
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Viper and auto bolt installation

I have been trying to understand the mechanics of installing a viper and autobolt ss in my 2006 E350 SMB. For some reason, I can not get straight answers from the resalers/installers, and it might be I donít understand their explanations. Sorry for my ignorance, I have been trying to look it up.

My van does not have a key fob, I need the key to unlock, then can press the button on the door to unlock all doors. So when the Viper security system is installed, it will have a key fob to lock the doors and activate the alarm. Does Viper have a unit that allows this, or is it just activating an unused circuit (receiver) already in the van?

I would like the autobolt ss to be on a separate circuit, separate key fob, for use in select situations. Will I need a separate actuator circuit from the Viper? What will that entitle, running complete separate wires from the actuator to the key fob receiver? Thanks for any enlightenment you could give.
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Old 02-05-2020, 05:25 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Belize View Post
I would like the autobolt ss to be on a separate circuit, separate key fob, for use in select situations. Will I need a separate actuator circuit from the Viper? What will that entitle, running complete separate wires from the actuator to the key fob receiver? Thanks for any enlightenment you could give.
I'm not familiar with the Viper's wiring diagram or options selection but my own dead bolt system is tied to a CrimeGuard 350i5. I like that particular alarm as its the only one I've ever used and installed--along with that it has a number of programmable options I could add should they become useful.

In my install I did create a separate circuit known as a "5 wire reversal (rest at ground) in the 12 volt DC world. I'll show it here:



In that schematic the blue and green wires are from the alarm and trigger the lock/unlock function for my dead bolts. The signal from those wires is also used to trigger my existing power door locks--I simply parallel tapped into the alarm wiring to have the same signal applied to both the dead bolt and PDL circuits simultaneously. Over three different installations this has worked flawlessly.


I did have to physically fabricate the 5 wire reversal relay "package" and went completely overboard by using a Hella relay block but honestly there's a far more simple and easier way to go for that.


In my install since I have a partition or barrier of sorts between the front seats and rear cargo area I don't use the deadbolts on the front doors. Everything of importance or high value is stored in the rear, the stuff up front is somewhat easily and cheaply replaced.

I gather you do NOT have factory power door locks? If that's the case you can still add and control the dead bolts without them. Any alarm can be triggered by things like the dome light so you'd have that protection on the front doors. Even without PDL's installing an alarm that has a remote actuator dead bolts can be installed and fully utilized.

I hope this is somewhat helpful in explaining things---its aggravating to try spending money with a vendor who cannot or will not make their process easier to understand. It makes me suspicious of their final product.
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Old 02-05-2020, 06:34 AM   #3
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Thanks JWA, that helps clear the confusion somewhat. Which deadbolts do you use?
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Old 02-06-2020, 03:44 AM   #4
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Thanks JWA, that helps clear the confusion somewhat. Which deadbolts do you use?
I used an unknown brand, bought one from a seller here in the USA but kinda got screwed by them. Ordered and installed a second set from this UK seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-...53.m1438.l2649

That seller deleted the components for their remote entry making the cost to me lower--I already had an alarm installed and simply incorporated the dead bolt solenoids into its operation.

The crooked outfit is here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-...53.m1438.l2649

I would use the Auto Bolt stainless steel versions now as they've finally incorporated a manual defeat feature in case the solenoid itself fails. The Auto Bolt would be easier to install--fewer parts to mount and align.
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