Full Wiring Layout
Good Afternoon all and hope everyone is doing well within the current environment - makes one happy to have a vehicle to hibernate in and still make it out of the house safely.
I'm getting down to the next major step in the build out of my adventure beast and have drafted the attached layout for wiring. I've sourced all the parts except for the 2 gauge wire at this stage - that EVO weighs a ton!
Given the excellent knowledge within this group, any suggestions would be helpful. I think I've sort of got this right (still need to run the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard) but still bugged that maybe I missed something - paranoia maybe.
Appreciate any and all suggestions.
Haven't been that active on the forum (albeit read alot)given my work schedule but now that I'm somewhat retired - hopefully things will improve nbuit some of the responses are so quick that it's tough to keep up - not sure how you all do it.
After a quick glance, I would say to go over your EVO manual. Your input and output sizes of this device are wrong. Also the same wire would not be used for the shorepower (AC) as the battery (DC) circuits. The EVO 3012 has some programmable settings that would have impact in choosing those wires.
The output (DC) side is also woefully undersized for a 3000 watt inverter, you also need a very large fuse between battery and EVO 3012. I would question the 100 amp fuse from AC out put to AC input of BS 8084. Also drawing shows DC loads coming off of EVO 3012, and not tied to battery.
I kind of stopped there.
Thanks Scalf, back to the drawing board - wiring a house is so much easier than a car:(
Fulkl Wiring Layout
So, after consulting the ABYC guidelines, the Samlex manual, the Blue Sea circuit app, the 8084 manual and the AWG wire capacity charts, I have a revised layout that probably works a lot better.
A couple notes, the 10 gauge running from the MMPT controller to the Samlex is undersized as to the 40A rating of the controller but in looking at what solar panels can produce in terms of amps and my inability to run panels exceeding somewhere around 250watts, that size works. The AWG chart suggests that size wire can take up to 55 amps chassis and 15 amps power ratings respectively.
Likewise the 6 gauge to the 8084 on the AC side, that can support 101 chassis and 37 power according to the charts and that panel only has a 30 amp breaker in it so the draw is below even those power rating levels.
The 2 gauge to the DC side of the 8084 panel is just at the breaker size of 100 amps but the load to that panel is never going to get near 100amps so going to a 1 gauge at 119 power and 211 chassis amp ratings didn't seem to make sense. Blue Sea suggest a max of 2 gauge or a lesser size dependent upon calculated potential load.
The wire sizing and fusing on the DC side for the batteries at 2x3 gauge is per the Samlex charts and the AC out feed and inside shore power sizing are likewise in alignment with the Samlex charts in the manual.
Hope this makes more sense now.
First, without knowing your wire runs (length) and characteristics (temperature rating) , it is difficult to check some of the wire sizes. Also, the input to the Samlex 3012 is somewhat dependent on the setting of the input breaker (default 30 amp) or (45 amp). The 8 awg input could be fine with some of those inputs.
The output of the Samlex 3012 (AC) input to the BS 8024, would be driven by the rated output of the Samlex 3012, which is 25 amps either in invert mode, or bypass mode. Thus I can't see the reasoning of going to 6 awg for that circuit. The 3012 manual suggest 8 awg (75°C) .
The DC output/input of the 3012 is recommended to be 2 X 3/0 awg not 2 x 3 awg, I suspect this is just a typo. This is with 90°C rated wire.
I would rethink the wire size for the solar controller, while your assumptions on the output of panels is correct. I generally try to wire these to the max output and minimize voltage drop as much as possible. Better to wire is once rather then going back and rewiring to meet the max load. Maybe you might want to use a portable panel setup also?
Thanks, appreciate the input and yes it is supposed to be 2x3/0 on the DC side connections. Wire temp rating would be minimum 90 degree as you note.
I do have my floor plan laid out and while the batteries and Samlex are within a foot of each other and likewise the shore connection is very short, the 8084 panel is probably a single run length of 7, maybe 8 feet. I was trying to keep drop-age to something around 1% and have been using the calculation tools associated with the AWG charts and the Bluesea app as well to assist.
I take your point on the solar side but will now need to look at the wiring size that Sportsmobile installed from the roof down to make sure it is likewise properly sized for the run length with the roof up.
Lots on the agenda now that the snow has melted and I can work outside since this beast doesn’t fit in my garage at the current house.
Appreciate your guidance and insights
Something to consider is whether you plan to run your solar panels in parallel or serial. Your MPPT controller should be able to handle either setup, but it has an impact on selection of your panel wiring gauge.
A typical 120W solar panel has a nominal voltage of ~18V. If you run two panels serially, you'll have ~36V @ 240W, meaning your current is on the order of 6.5A. If you run the panels in parallel, you'll have ~18V @ 240W, or ~13A. Half the voltage and double the current of a serial setup, in other words.
The main benefit of the solar controller is recognized by running panels in serial, as it allows you to minimize resistive loss in the wiring using higher voltage and lower current. You can also use lighter gauge wire, saving both money and weight. Furthermore, the combined voltage of two solar panels in serial is more likely to meet the minimum voltage requirement of your charging system under low lighting conditions.
The downside of a serial solar panel setup is that it's susceptible to reduced output when partially shaded. If one of the panels is shaded, the entire system output is reduced (like an open circuit). A parallel setup is less susceptible to this--even if one panel is completely shaded, the other panel is unaffected. (In fact, if you look closely at a solar panel, the various "strings" are run in parallel within each panel.)
Given the pros/cons, it's up to you to choose which configuration will best meet your needs. If you size the wiring for a parallel setup, the only real downsides will be additional cost/weight if you later decide to switch to running the panels in series. Also consider that solar panel technology is constantly improving, and if/when you upgrade the panels someday it would be nice not to have to replace the wiring as well.
FWIW, I currently have my setup (2x190W panels) run in parallel.
configuration is a moving target and will need to run the math on wiring if I run multiple panels.
The Alumuminess roof rack is pre-configured for two small panels (2x115) but I'm thinking of maybe one bigger one in the same spot up front (have a floor covering the back part) that may be able to do 300 watts as a single. Need a floor down first and upgrade to my differentials as well in the interim - no lack of fun or bills to come!
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