-20 degrees; good battery; no start

Vndlfsn

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I’ve got a 2013 sprinter with the OM 642 engine. I use a premium winterized diesel available locally from Kwik Trip stations.

Yesterday morning it was -16 and the van started and we drove it on some errands throughout the day.

This morning it’s -20 and it won’t kick over. The battery is strong but to keep it strong I’ve put it on a trickle charger.

So is this a fuel delivery issue? Or is it simply the fact that the oil is sludge at this temperature? In other words, what is actually keeping it from starting?

I understand that you cannot add a block heater to this particular engine yet there are aftermarket options for tapping into the lower radiator hose? Or using a stick on oil pan heating pad?

This temperature is extreme, even for northern Wisconsin, but I would be interested in preparing for the next unlikely cold wave.
 
Won't kick over means the starter is engaging and cranking the engine but the engine is not firing?

Have you tried turning the key to on (but cranking) and waiting 10 seconds before cranking? This allows the glow plugs to heat the cylinder and if there is a fuel pre heat to get the fuel heated. You may have to let the glow plugs do their thing a couple of times.
 
Clarify, does not 'kick over' mean not crank or not fire?


Extreme cold certainly does make the oil thicker, cold makes the entire electrical system (including the batteries and starter) less 'powerful' for lack of a better description.


I have had to operate in as cold as -65, here are a few things I've done to help...


Switch to a different viscosity oil for winter, I run 5w40 full synthetic in winter months. The engine manufacture should specify what weigh oil is safe for what temps. There is as light as 0w20 available, though I wouldn't go that light in a diesel.


Make sure the battery is up to the task. Have it tested and ensure adequate capacity. Switching to an AGM or dual AGM batteries. I have used heating pads on batteries to prevent freezing as well.


Make sure the starter is strong. Perform a current draw test to make sure it's in good health. Make sure all cables and connections are tight and corrosion free.


Coolant and/or oil pan heater. If you don't have a coolant heater then a stick on oil pan heater can be very beneficial. I have put pan heaters on transmission pans as well.


Good luck!
 
Good stuff. Yeah it cranked strong at first but did not start. When the cranking started to slow I hooked up the battery charger to be sure I didn’t run it down.
 
1der offered good advice with "turning the key to allow the go-plugs to cycle at least twice". But, adding a 'Cetane boost' to the fuel when expecting cold weather also helps (increasing cetane level's in diesel helps the fuel auto-ignite in cold temps). I also add Howes Diesel fuel additive (adds lubricity, anti-gel, & removes water from the fuel & filter).
I have a 6.0 and it started right up this morning in 10 degree temps (cycled the glow plugs twice then cranked the engine... I do have benefit of a block heater, but forgot to plug it in last night :k8:)
 
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Absolutely! We used to do that for our old 1982 MB turbo diesel wagon, allowing the glow plugs to cycle two or three times before actually turning the key to try and start the engine.
 
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I try to avoid cold starts at those temps. These vans hate it and I'm concerned about damaging something. I use an oil pan heater if the temps drop. On top of that, I run an Espar coolant heater to add some heat to the block. Oh, and I do the glow plug warm-up a couple of times.
 
I try to avoid cold starts at those temps. These vans hate it and I'm concerned about damaging something. I use an oil pan heater if the temps drop. On top of that, I run an Espar coolant heater to add some heat to the block. Oh, and I do the glow plug warm-up a couple of times.

Aha! I have the d5 Espar Hydronic (Rixen) system. Can it warm the engine? How do I use it to do that?
 
And that would be a big negative, Brian at Sportsmobile Southwest states that the D5 system is not intended to both heat the cabin and the block.
 
Yep, D5 hydronic.

I would call Rixen.

It is not the D5 that is the potential limitation it is the Rixen system/plumbing that is using the D5 Coolant Heater for domestic hot water and cabin heating via a liquid to air radiator to heat the cabin.

Certainly, a separate hydronic heater could be installed and dedicated to heating the engine. This would provide anywhere block heating. Or go with the silicone oil pan heating pad.
 
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Aha! I have the d5 Espar Hydronic (Rixen) system. Can it warm the engine? How do I use it to do that?




I have a Hydronic heater in my van tied into the engine cooling system and it pre-heats my engine. I do it anytime I'm camping below freezing.


I'm not familiar with a Rixen install, so maybe if the coolant just comes from the heater core or bypass line it wouldn't circulate thru the engine block...
 
How old is your battery?

Sounds like a battery issue.

Are you able to see exact voltage of your battery? Voltage while cranking?
 
Yeah so I installed the victron smartshunt and I’m getting data yet I have to do the zero charge calibration yet.
 
For super cold weather starts, how about Mobil 1 ESP X3 0W-40? This is the broadest range I've found and it says it meets the Mercedes-Benz specification 229.52...
 

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