2003 E-350 Sportsmobile RB50 Agile Rip Kit Rough Ride

[SCMatthew]

Hello All,
I have a 2003 SMB 4X4 Quigley RB50 with an Agile RIP kit installed about 8 years ago.
It has the Fox 2.0 and full spring pack in the rear (no spacer).
I run BFG A/T at 55psi in the front and 65psi in the rear.
I'm not sure if the ride has gotten worse over the past 8 years or the wife is just more sensitive to the bumps (the 7.3 is also too loud!).
What can I do to improve the ride? Or is this just how a full size lifted van that was never meant to be 4WD just rides?

Are the shocks at the age where the need to be replaced? Would it even make a difference?
Rear Sway bar?
Sumosprings?
Should I send it to UJoint to be de-Quigley'd?
I would hate to buy a Sprinter (no offense to any Sprinter fans).
Thanks for any help.

 

[Twoxentrix]

When you say you want to "improve the ride", what are you referring to exactly...what would the goal be? In the 8yrs of ownership, what specifically do you feel has become 'worse'?

A Rear sway bar will help with cornering, help maintain a stable ride in winds & when passing semi's, but will not make the ride any 'smoother' (they are more about adding stability from sway and roll). The Sumo's are effective if you feel you are hitting your bump stops a lot (they'll soften the jarring that takes place). Shocks are a best alternative to smooth out the ride if they've truly reached end of life.
Quigley has been around a long time, and even though I don't own one I've heard the RIP kit is a great improvement If the shocks are paired/tuned correctly for the van.
I'm guessing you have some sort of sound & heat insulation up against the inside of doghouse to help maintain heat & engine noise. Inspect to see if it is still in place...I had another layer added which really helped on both accounts.

 

[SCMatthew]

The ride is pretty bouncy with some good body lean in the turns. I love it-- the wife isn't happy !
I'm thinking the shocks might be a good place to start. I do have a QuietRide doghouse kit sitting in my garage. I might Dynamat the whole van!

 

[Twoxentrix]

'Bouncy' does describe worn shocks.

I put on the rear sway bar and really like the results. Van is considerably more stable, and handles the road(s) so much better (included quick disconnects).

 

[SCMatthew]

Thanks for the reply. What sway bar did you install? I’ve got the Hellwig in my cart. I’m interested in the disconnects.
I also just realized that Quigley welded brackets on the rear shock mounts. Is that so the stock shocks would fit?

 

[Twoxentrix]

I too have a beefy Hellwig. Member Ref (on post #20) identifies some rear ‘disconnects’ that are available in the market (mine were custom made):

Rear Sway Bar Options

what have you SMB people done for a rear sway bar??? anyone use one off of a 1ton frod truck???? im working with E350 thanks

www.sportsmobileforum.com

The welded shock mounts are normally a calculated consideration by the installer (during the conversion process) to accommodate a certain length shock. It was probably position to allow enough shock travel during both extremes of the differential travel.

 

[Twoxentrix]

Not sure how I managed to duplicate my reply, and can’t seem to delete the second other than doing this.

 

[arctictraveller]

You could lower the air pressure some to soften the ride. “Bouncy” says worn shocks.

 

[SCMatthew]

Just noticed the rig is leaning to one side. The spring on the driver side is more compressed than the passenger side. Agile replaced the original with Quigley springs. Wondering if anyone knows the Moog model that would be a good replacement— or any other brand. Agile has Moog CC880s on their website. Is that the correct length?

 

[1der]

Leaning to driver side front and rear?

Taking measurements to the pinch seam below the rocker panels is a good place to get readings - behind front tires and forward of rear. Typical driver side should be just a bit taller depending on fuel load.

What is your interior layout, water tank location, house battery type and location?

The 7.3 needs the heavier rated springs.

btw - we have a 2002 7.3 and it is really pleasant inside. Minimal "Dynamat" and only in select areas. Do not waste your $$ on overdoing Dynamat. Make sure dog house is properly seated with no mis-aligned gaskets and clamps are secure. Use a length of rubber hose to your ear to isolate where sounds are coming from. Close off any holes in the firewall and space below the foot wells. Insulate foot wells. Check the exhaust up pipes for leaks. Add Dynamat to firewall and a thick insulation under the front carpet as far up the fire wall as possible. Some Dynamat inside front /side doors against outer sheet metal - do not need much. Thinsulate and/or Havelock wool in side cargo doors. You are not going to be able to do much insulation (pretty much no insulation) in/on the front doors.

If you have a bunch of screws securing the rear interior floor to the van metal floor, well, you are kind of hosed as those will transmit sound really well. Best you can do without redoing the floor is to get a heavy carpet with an underlayment to add mass to diminish sound transfer. Every cabinet hold down is a sound conduit.