99 EB-50 Rebuild in Palm Springs CA

[jamlip]

Hi all. I'm starting this thread to document the interior rebuild of my 1999 7.3 4x4 EB-50 Sportsmobile.

I bought this van near Sacramento in July last year from the second owner. They had purchased it during Covid before realizing it was a bit too much for their needs. During that time, they had a local outfitter modernize the on-board electrical system and fit 12v AC, and another shop make changes to the front suspension.

I immediately took the van on a family trip to Northern California's Lost Coast. The electric systems functioned well, but the suspension work turned out to be outright dangerous.

Once home, I replaced the shocks and springs with the combo used in the ride-improvement kits regularly mentioned on this board. Shortly after I also removed the front sway bar. The van now rides beautifully both on and off road.

Other changes since then include replacing SMB's 90s-style billet grille with a factory unit from an E350 work truck (which also had the benefit of greatly improving the output of the AC), reinstating the winch, fitting LED headlamps and backup lights, removing the Fiama awning (which was buckling the sheet metal around the clamps as a result of driving off-road), fitting Bushwacker fender flares, and installing a Sony double-DIN stereo with backup camera.

In the last 12 months I've taken the van up to Walla Walla WA, the last ever Reno Air Races, skiing in Grand Targhee ID and fishing along the Colorado River around Yuma AZ. My wife, son and I moved to the US from the UK in 2017 and quickly discovered we loved to camp (camping in Britain absolutely sucks, for the record). I am pretty sure a Sportsmobile is one of the best ways to experience the wild corners of amazing country.

At the end of last month I took the van to Burning Man and was delighted to return home safely with only a broken rear spring hanger. I cleaned out the fridge and gray water tank, vacuumed-out all the dust, and put the van back into my hangar where it lives, figuring I would get to the broken spring hanger the weekend after.

Some time during the week, the portable toilet, which I had forgotten to empty, exploded, emptying a putrid mess into the interior. I won't go into any more details here, but if you want to read about this sorry situation, this is the thread

With the van now coming up on 25 years old, I was aware an interior refit would some day be required. This event brought the decision forward somewhat.

And so begins my rebuild thread...

 

[jamlip]

I have already started to gut the interior. I like the EB-50 layout and plan to rebuilding the cabinetry in birch or poplar ply.

I plan to reuse the existing propane heater, and fit a new gas cooktop and new 12v fridge.

The van is currently fitted with a massive AIMS Global 3000w inverter and a microwave, neither of which we really need. I've removed both and will sell the inverter. I'm going to use that leftover space for more water storage.

I currently have two 300Ah batteries on board, charged via a Renogy controller. I'll fit a smaller Victron 800w inverter for running laptops and suchlike.

I would like to add mass loaded vinyl (FatMat or similar) to the cab area to help control engine noise from the mighty 7.3. I am not going to sound-insulate the back of the van since we actively seek-out quiet camp spots.

I do need to work out rear thermal insulation options. The insulation situation at present is pitiful.

I'm going to add a new carpet to the cab. I have ordered boat flooring samples for the rear. I need to investigate other fabrics for the wall panels and seats.

 

[Twoxentrix]

Well you are waisting any time! Many here will be ‘fans in the stands’ as you progress, but available for suggestions & ideas (as you’ve already discovered).

 

[1der]

Yes, nice to see you getting started!

Some ideas -
Remove the HUGE propane heater and replace with a diesel fired heater the size of a loaf of bread and MUCH nicer and quieter heat.

A 1600w to 2000w range inverter will allow use of power tools, microwave, etc. 800w is pretty smalll.

600 ah of Lithium ?? What is this for if only charging laptops and ??

Water tank/ capacity - consider two tanks to better utilize space while increasing capacity versus one large tank. Incorporate a larger O ring sealed 3" diameter port for filling from jugs or a hose versus having to fill thru the city water port or a funnel under the seat.

RAISE the counter height !!

 

[jamlip]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

When I started the tear-down I realized my biggest hurdle was going to be indecision on how to equip the van.

The biggest draw on the cells is the no-brand "Kingtec" 12V rooftop air conditioner. It's not very good, but it does take a slight edge off the heat here in the desert. I'd like to change it out for a 12v Dometic unit down the line.

600Ah doesn't leave much AC once you've run the microwave for five minutes. I've never used the outlets for anything except a laptop charger and most of my power tools are cordless anyway.

Regarding the heater - better-the-devil-you-know etc. I already have propane on board, I know it works at all altitudes, and keeping it saves $1500. Only downside I can see is space. But it's also easy to change my mind later, if required.

Deck plate on the tank is a GREAT idea, thank you.

 

[1der]

How are you charging the lith battery bank ?
You mentioned Renogy Controller but what "Renogy"?

 

[jamlip]

Renogy charge controller fed with alternator and solar

 

[1der]

Renogy charge controller fed with alternator and solar

I think that maxes out at 50A. So, maybe 40A to 45A getting to the batteries. That means the recharge of the lithium bank takes a while.
What do you have for alternator(s)?

 

[jamlip]

Single factory alternator (unsure of amperage).

Looks new-ish, perhaps all that work was stressing it out.

Unrelated - I keep finding the word "FEB50 Demo" written on the back of trim pieces as I remove them. Perhaps it was a demonstrator.

 

[Twoxentrix]

I’ll throw in a word of caution concerning the location of any equipment you install (re-install) which have lights integrated into them (battery monitors, solar control plates, CO detectors, etc).. position them so when you retire in the evening they do not shine towards your head - gets to be real annoying having to contend with that glow at night.
Also, since everything is apart, run some extra wires around the inside so down the road if you intend to ‘add’ anything extra you don’t spend time navigating them around all your cabinets and appliances.

 

[jamlip]

Yep, I'm going to run to busses at various points for exactly that reason. Also going to run everything so it's accessible, as suggested in the original post-toilet-explosion thread. No wires buried in the walls once they're inside the living quarters.

 

[1der]

Yep, I'm going to run to busses at various points for exactly that reason. Also going to run everything so it's accessible, as suggested in the original post-toilet-explosion thread. No wires buried in the walls once they're inside the living quarters.

Two fuse panels - one passenger side and one driver side .

Re extra wire - can run extra wire or run a pull cord behind the fridge and other areas that are difficult to get to.

And yes, all items that might need service - make accessible. Consider small ball valves for isolating plumbing.

 

[Big_ern_101]

If it was my project I would ditch the propane entirely.
-Diesel heaters are awesome. Even the $150 Amazon specials do a great job. No need for the $1500 Webastos.
-If you want a cooktop you can get a diesel fired cooktop for $2k brand new. Lotta cheddar but single source of fuel would be worth it to me.
-Depending on how often I used a cooktop (I prefer to cook outside unless the weather is absolute ****) I would just use an induction cooktop stored in a drawer considering how many watts of battery and inverter you already own.
-I would keep my paid-for 3kw inverter. I don't see a good reason to downsize considering how much battery you have.
-I would consider investing in a second alternator or a high amp alternator to charge house batteries at a higher rate considering how much battery you have.
-I recommend Dynamatting the entire vehicle (or whatever sound deadener you use) while it is apart, along with a double layer over the rear wheelwells. It makes a huge difference in transmitted noise and doesnt cost that much. Its all labor, but hey labor is free.

 

[jamlip]

Thanks for the thoughts. I forgot to mention it, but I'm interested in adding hot water if there's a tankless that doesn't take up much room. I think those are all propane.

I like the idea of a single fuel source, and filling the propane is horrible (especially in the cold), but I don't want Chinese equipment in the van if I can avoid it. That leaves Webasto / Eberspacher stuff, which is a lot of money. I just can't spend 2000 bucks on a cooktop when I have a child that might want to go to college one day.

 

[jamlip]

OK, I might be willing to bend a little on a Chinese diesel air heater, given how small they are and how monster the propane one currently in the truck is...

 

[jamlip]

The gutting continues...

"Insulation". Nice work, lads.

This is the top mount of the three-point seatbelt in the rear of the van. I feel like if you crash one of these things, the seatbelt is kind of academic, anyway.

Note also the scotchlok and the wire insulation, which had worn away against the bodywork sheetmetal. Nice.

Current state of play. That Suburban heater really is massive. Works well though.

 

[1der]

OK, I might be willing to bend a little on a Chinese diesel air heater, given how small they are and how monster the propane one currently in the truck is...

Yep, and you will be amazed at how quiet they are and how well they maintain temp.

A few tips:

Airtronic style heater is best for cabin heat.
Heater duct outlet as close to the floor as possible. Consider splitting the outlets with a Y that has a register in it.
Heater installed where you can service it and air intake is clear to draw from the cabin.
Heater control/thermostat is mounted at about hip level. The hot that rises gets trapped under the bed platform and causes the thermostat to shut off well before your feet are comfy.
A couple of Koonie or similiar USB rechargeable fans can be used to circulate the air throughout the cabin.
Leave openings for warm air to get to your water tanks and plumbing - IF you are planning on cold winter camping.
Higher rated (8kw) heater if you are zero deg camping, Lower rated (5kw) if 20 deg or warmer temps are your plans.
If you are dropping the fuel tank to install a pickup, then install two pickup for any future add on such as a diesel hydronic water heater.
Run heater exhaust on driver side and use a muffler take into consideration dirt and ice build up areas around the tires.

 

[jamlip]

OK, I just ordered a Vevor unit for $109 taxed and delivered. I watched some YouTube videos of people servicing them after 2000 hours of use and realized it was worth just trying. It certainly gains me a lot of space over the giant Suburban propane heater.

 

[boywonder]

I forgot to mention it, but I'm interested in adding hot water if there's a tankless that doesn't take up much room. I think those are all propane.

Since you have a gigawatt-hour's worth of house battery you may find this entertaining......

Both 1der and I have 12V electric water heaters.....well technically water heaters that we converted to run on 12V. It takes a boat-load of energy to heat water but with enough amp-hours it can be done. We have both been using our setups for years without issue. ...well...for me without issue started when I converted to LiFePo.

Here is the detailed thread of my water heater adventure...starting at post #16

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/f...v-ac-small-electric-water-heater-13704-2.html

 

[jamlip]

Thanks for this. I like the idea of diverting excess solar to the heater.

I was originally thinking of a coolant heat-exchanger so that I didn't have to worry about boiling the water and having a tank explode inside the van.