99 EB-50 Rebuild in Palm Springs CA
- Thread starter jamlip
- Start date
-
- Tags
- sportsmobile
This is the front panel for the closet. It took me nine attempts to make that curved corner template (I figured I could buy an inside-cut curved router template, but it turns out I could not).
I made the template with a hole-saw in a drill press, then a table router to make the straightaways.
Once I had a nice example to work from, I used it to individually cut each curved corner into a master template of 1/4in ply. That took some time. I then used that template to cut the cabinet front from prefinished ply. The whole thing required superhuman levels of focus - lots of cuts, and one wrong move would ruin all my work.
My first attempt (in the last photo above) had a couple of little mistakes I couldn't live with. I managed to nail it on the second attempt (and neglected to take a picture).
The ply I'm using is 12mm. Luckily I had a 12mm bit in my collection so I cut 1/4in deep channels into the back to locate the shelves and stuff. Everything slots together so nice and tight and square. I'll finish off making those and assemble the thing properly - with glue. No G-D L-brackets in this badboy.
I made the template with a hole-saw in a drill press, then a table router to make the straightaways.
Once I had a nice example to work from, I used it to individually cut each curved corner into a master template of 1/4in ply. That took some time. I then used that template to cut the cabinet front from prefinished ply. The whole thing required superhuman levels of focus - lots of cuts, and one wrong move would ruin all my work.
My first attempt (in the last photo above) had a couple of little mistakes I couldn't live with. I managed to nail it on the second attempt (and neglected to take a picture).
The ply I'm using is 12mm. Luckily I had a 12mm bit in my collection so I cut 1/4in deep channels into the back to locate the shelves and stuff. Everything slots together so nice and tight and square. I'll finish off making those and assemble the thing properly - with glue. No G-D L-brackets in this badboy.
Last edited:
1der
Senior Member
lots of experience with TF, solid unit. Shelves in the latest models seem less sturdy so not sure if the metal was changed.
IF you can go to the TF130 size, I highly recommend that. The extra space, shelf and drawer have packed an amazing amount of food. The freezer sections are small on these fridges, but they freeze ice cube trays really well.
Whichever you choose, make sure there is REALLY good cross ventilation across the compressor/coils. I have seen so many fridges installed in cabinets that have insufficient slots/ventilation. The fridges perform poorly. The heat has to have a place to vent out.
OK, turns out I never hit 'Order' so there's no fridge on the way. The TF130 is closer in size to what we have now.
I think I'm going to put the original (perfectly functioning) fridge back in and see how I feel about it. Right now the thought of spending $1000, to replace something that doesn't really need replacing, feels a bit ridiculous.
Here's today's progress...
Trial fit number one. I refined the curve profile of the old SMB cabinet vertical pieces then used them as templates to make mine. It fits much tighter against the wall now.
Back out for some fettling. I can't decide whether to finish the edges or leave them in their current au-naturel state.
Other than that, there's just one lower shelf, the top, and the fabric-trimmed end-piece to install and it's good to bolt into the van. I did end up using a few of the original L-brackets, positioned as not to be visible, as a back up to the wood glue.
Goal for tomorrow is to start on the shelf that goes above the galley.
I think I'm going to put the original (perfectly functioning) fridge back in and see how I feel about it. Right now the thought of spending $1000, to replace something that doesn't really need replacing, feels a bit ridiculous.
Here's today's progress...
Trial fit number one. I refined the curve profile of the old SMB cabinet vertical pieces then used them as templates to make mine. It fits much tighter against the wall now.
Back out for some fettling. I can't decide whether to finish the edges or leave them in their current au-naturel state.
Other than that, there's just one lower shelf, the top, and the fabric-trimmed end-piece to install and it's good to bolt into the van. I did end up using a few of the original L-brackets, positioned as not to be visible, as a back up to the wood glue.
Goal for tomorrow is to start on the shelf that goes above the galley.
Last edited:
1der
Senior Member
Looking really good.
Some suggestions, some may repeat what others have said -
Wiring - have a chase and a pull string (that you can leave in place after use) for the additional adds down the road.
Plumbing - anything at back of closed cabinets can freeze. Consider including some small ducts to allow heated air to get to the pipes/ pump.
Attachment - every cabinet unit should be removable for inspection/ repair. Solid affixing to either floor or wall but not both. One of the attachments needs to have some flexing ability to accommodate the flex in the body. Otherwise, much of your wonderfully fine wood work will start cracking. If your floor is "floating" then you have flexing with that but I think you affixed your floor to the metal, if I remember correctly.
Access to components for repair/ replacement - mount pumps, heaters, valves, electrical, plugs, connection, etc., so you can get to them without disassembling too much, if any, of your cabinets. Make access panels in the interior cabinet walls and shelves, if needed.
Windows - CRL awning windows sometimes fail especially in for hot climates like PS. Consider how you will get the the 24 screws on the frame to pop those out.
Lighting - having some ambiance, foot lights is nice.
Make sure all your top lifting components are serviceable
I hope you revised your counter heights from the very low 28" SMB height.
Really like what you are doing!!
Some suggestions, some may repeat what others have said -
Wiring - have a chase and a pull string (that you can leave in place after use) for the additional adds down the road.
Plumbing - anything at back of closed cabinets can freeze. Consider including some small ducts to allow heated air to get to the pipes/ pump.
Attachment - every cabinet unit should be removable for inspection/ repair. Solid affixing to either floor or wall but not both. One of the attachments needs to have some flexing ability to accommodate the flex in the body. Otherwise, much of your wonderfully fine wood work will start cracking. If your floor is "floating" then you have flexing with that but I think you affixed your floor to the metal, if I remember correctly.
Access to components for repair/ replacement - mount pumps, heaters, valves, electrical, plugs, connection, etc., so you can get to them without disassembling too much, if any, of your cabinets. Make access panels in the interior cabinet walls and shelves, if needed.
Windows - CRL awning windows sometimes fail especially in for hot climates like PS. Consider how you will get the the 24 screws on the frame to pop those out.
Lighting - having some ambiance, foot lights is nice.
Make sure all your top lifting components are serviceable
I hope you revised your counter heights from the very low 28" SMB height.
Really like what you are doing!!
Last edited:
Thanks Ray.
OK, today's progress...
Added backstops to the cabinet to stop knickknacks from disappearing down into the deep dark yonder..
I then lifted the unit into the van, and ripped one of my newly re-covered rear door cards, so there's another thing I'll need to do twice.
Got started on the galley shelf...
Decided to epoxy this one. I used T-88.
It's currently drying. I added end stops and will put a 1/4" panel on the back, then trim all the edges down with the flush cut router. Hopefully I can install it tomorrow.
Starting to look like a camper van again!
OK, today's progress...
Added backstops to the cabinet to stop knickknacks from disappearing down into the deep dark yonder..
I then lifted the unit into the van, and ripped one of my newly re-covered rear door cards, so there's another thing I'll need to do twice.
Got started on the galley shelf...
Decided to epoxy this one. I used T-88.
It's currently drying. I added end stops and will put a 1/4" panel on the back, then trim all the edges down with the flush cut router. Hopefully I can install it tomorrow.
Starting to look like a camper van again!
Last edited:
Now for some questions.
Is there an industry-standard method for holding-down these water tanks?
Is there any reason why my electrical setup had two solar charge controllers?!
As you can see, I installed the Victron box before I remembered the Renogy box was also in my pile of stuff :/
There are two panels on the roof, with two sets of wires coming down into the van on opposite sides. Each panel was connected to one charge controller, but I can't work out why whoever did this, did this.
The Renogy box is good for 300w, so I should be able to tie both of them into there and lose the Victron box, right?
Or should I keep both, for redundancy?
Is there an industry-standard method for holding-down these water tanks?
Is there any reason why my electrical setup had two solar charge controllers?!
As you can see, I installed the Victron box before I remembered the Renogy box was also in my pile of stuff :/
There are two panels on the roof, with two sets of wires coming down into the van on opposite sides. Each panel was connected to one charge controller, but I can't work out why whoever did this, did this.
The Renogy box is good for 300w, so I should be able to tie both of them into there and lose the Victron box, right?
Or should I keep both, for redundancy?
Last edited:
1der
Senior Member
Solar first - not saying this is reason for two SC's but here are reasons:
The two panels are different wattage
One panel and one SC connected to house battery, other to engine battery
Second portable panel input was installed and routed through a dedicated SC(probably the Victron since it is lesser capacity.
Tanks - The couch frame can be used to secure the vertical aspect of the tanks (might have add wooden block to take up space, while blocks securely attached to the floor can control the fore/aft/ lateral aspects. Or proper sized rachet straps run over the top and well secured to the floor, or combination of straps and stops.
Of course couch method implies the couch is very well secured to the floor.
Are those new tanks or the ones that came with the orig build? The cleanout ports on the top need to have a very good seal.
The two panels are different wattage
One panel and one SC connected to house battery, other to engine battery
Second portable panel input was installed and routed through a dedicated SC(probably the Victron since it is lesser capacity.
Tanks - The couch frame can be used to secure the vertical aspect of the tanks (might have add wooden block to take up space, while blocks securely attached to the floor can control the fore/aft/ lateral aspects. Or proper sized rachet straps run over the top and well secured to the floor, or combination of straps and stops.
Of course couch method implies the couch is very well secured to the floor.
Are those new tanks or the ones that came with the orig build? The cleanout ports on the top need to have a very good seal.
Last edited:
1der
Senior Member
Are the tanks both for domestic water?
What is in the space under the van aft of and between the differential and spare tire area basement box?
What is in the space under the van aft of and between the differential and spare tire area basement box?
Last edited:
The two tanks are for domestic water. I like carrying lots of water because we mostly go places that have none. I want to be able to rinse myself off after a day in the desert and not have to worry about it). I probably won’t use the second tank if we’re not going off into the deep back of beyond, but I figured it was a nicer thing to have than the huge inverter that occupied that previously space.
Regarding the inverter, we only really ever used it to run the microwave, which I also ditched. We had several occasions where we ran the microwave for dinner and the 12V AC stopped working in before we went to bed. We have a lot of kWh on board but not enough for both of these things.
The space underneath is occupied by a large auxiliary fuel tank. The van has a TransferFlow system, giving 52 gallons of diesel on board.
I’d like to tie the heater into the second fuel tank, but that’s a conversation for another time. I can’t find a spare port on either tank.
Regarding solar, I automatically assumed the system had been botched, but it turns out putting different panels on separate controllers is best practice.
Not a fan of Renogy, and I’d like to have it all Victron so it displays on one app, but, like the fridge, no point replacing a working controller. The Renogy also accepts a cable from the alternator, which is a whole different module if I want to do it with Victron equipment. Easily changed if the Renogy unit goes pop later on (which it probably will, knowing what they’re like).
Again, thanks for the thoughts!
Regarding the inverter, we only really ever used it to run the microwave, which I also ditched. We had several occasions where we ran the microwave for dinner and the 12V AC stopped working in before we went to bed. We have a lot of kWh on board but not enough for both of these things.
The space underneath is occupied by a large auxiliary fuel tank. The van has a TransferFlow system, giving 52 gallons of diesel on board.
I’d like to tie the heater into the second fuel tank, but that’s a conversation for another time. I can’t find a spare port on either tank.
Regarding solar, I automatically assumed the system had been botched, but it turns out putting different panels on separate controllers is best practice.
Not a fan of Renogy, and I’d like to have it all Victron so it displays on one app, but, like the fridge, no point replacing a working controller. The Renogy also accepts a cable from the alternator, which is a whole different module if I want to do it with Victron equipment. Easily changed if the Renogy unit goes pop later on (which it probably will, knowing what they’re like).
Again, thanks for the thoughts!
Last edited:
1der
Senior Member
Got it. What size are the solar panels? Running 2 SC's is not advisable for two roof panels of the same watts/volts charging the same battery bank. Each SC will think the battery is fully charged and fight with each other.
btw - The TF system, you probably know this, really acts like one big tank since the levels in the two tanks are kept the same with their system as the fuel is drawn down.
btw - The TF system, you probably know this, really acts like one big tank since the levels in the two tanks are kept the same with their system as the fuel is drawn down.
1der
Senior Member
And what are using to charge the Lith battery bank from shore power source? Was the inverter also your charger?
Yeah, the inverter was the charger. I can count the number of times I used shore power (and city water) on one finger (a KOA, on the way home from a camping trip).
I'm that into RV parks - would rather just get a hotel, or sleep in the van away from people.
I just weighed the inverter and it's 53lbs, plus 5-10lbs of heavy gauge cable. That's the equivalent of about 7 gallons of water.
I'm that into RV parks - would rather just get a hotel, or sleep in the van away from people.
I just weighed the inverter and it's 53lbs, plus 5-10lbs of heavy gauge cable. That's the equivalent of about 7 gallons of water.
Last edited:
1der
Senior Member
That charger or another will be appreciated plugged in at home to charge or resurrect the Lith bank from a BMS shut down.
Also, for resale unless the plan is to be buried in it which is what some of us plan!
Also, for resale unless the plan is to be buried in it which is what some of us plan!
I am aware I could change my mind at a later date and there is space for it behind the passenger-side rear wheel. For the time being, I'd rather get this thing up and running and see how I go. As an alternative, I can add a much smaller, lighter shore-power charger for about $100.
I think I'll be keeping the rig for a while - the 7.3 4x4s are hard to find, and I'm not particularly interested in breaking down in a Mercedes.
In other news, I just lifted the fridge back into the van
I think I'll be keeping the rig for a while - the 7.3 4x4s are hard to find, and I'm not particularly interested in breaking down in a Mercedes.
In other news, I just lifted the fridge back into the van
Last edited:
dbhost
Senior Member
I am on page 4 of the thread so far. I believe I read that the van is a 7.3 Diesel so the heater is a good match, however do yourself a favor and upgrade that fuel pump. Those cheap chinese pumps sound like Santas Elves banging away with their little hammers all night long!
I have a 4KW Velit gasoline heater in my RB11 gas model and fuel usage is a pittance so far. I go in, top off fuel as close to my destination as physically possible and then just go with it.
On the awning, yes bag type awnings are a bear to set up, but they are a lot lighter than say a Fiamma, on both the body work of the van, and the budget. There are a number of Sportsmobiles out there with them though, including 4x4s getting used pretty extensively. I wonder if your sheet metal distortion is from a prior owner leaving the awning up in high winds which can and often does result in damage...
My suggestions for your peace of mind though. Run the fuel line, some decent line not the green junk these heaters come with, through a silicone heat protector sleeve up where it meets the heater to protect it from the exhaust heat, and use some insulating wrap on the exhaust. The idea here is to keep exhaust heat and fuel line as separated as possible.
I have a 4KW Velit gasoline heater in my RB11 gas model and fuel usage is a pittance so far. I go in, top off fuel as close to my destination as physically possible and then just go with it.
On the awning, yes bag type awnings are a bear to set up, but they are a lot lighter than say a Fiamma, on both the body work of the van, and the budget. There are a number of Sportsmobiles out there with them though, including 4x4s getting used pretty extensively. I wonder if your sheet metal distortion is from a prior owner leaving the awning up in high winds which can and often does result in damage...
My suggestions for your peace of mind though. Run the fuel line, some decent line not the green junk these heaters come with, through a silicone heat protector sleeve up where it meets the heater to protect it from the exhaust heat, and use some insulating wrap on the exhaust. The idea here is to keep exhaust heat and fuel line as separated as possible.
Thanks for this. The previous awning was starting to damage the bodywork after clocking up some miles off-road. I don't think either of the previous owners did any legitimate off-road driving in it. I didn't want the weight up there, regardless.
I do really miss having an awning though and I like the look of this bag ones. I don't need the thing to wind out in 30 seconds - if the other option is that it takes a minute or two, that's fine by me.
Regarding the heater, I ran 1/4in hard-ish nylon line instead of the floppy green stuff. I'll shield the pipe near the exhaust - good idea. Just ordered a quiet pump on your recommendation.
I would like to work out a way to get fuel from the TransferFlow auxiliary tank to the heater since I'd prefer not to use the crappy plastic tank that came with the unit.
Update time. Interior fabrics are all done. Still waiting on the upholstery guy to finish the seat and bed cushions.
Since this photo was taken I've added the plinth that run along the passenger side in the rear, and also wired in switches for the exterior area lights. It looks great.
Nearly done with the plumbing. Need to do another run to buy more ply (a 230-mile round trip - plan to take the SMB instead of my horrible truck), which I need to finish the kitchen cabinets. The worktop will probably come from Ikea, which is not far from the lumber place. Then we go skiing. I won't have it finished by then but it should be workable if upholsterer stays true to his word and I can get the diesel heater operational.
The front cab is also done, minus the sun visors (will have to go without those for the time being). The headliner and overhead storage shelf is trimmed in the same Mariner Blue tweed as the back of the truck. Replaced the old CB radio with two 12v sockets and a USB / USB-C socket. All looks neat and I'm generally happy with how it came out.
That said, I'm not really enjoying this process - it's all-consuming and not achieving the fit and finish of a $250k Sprinter / truck camper / Earth Roamer is tearing me up. I know this is ridiculous, but.
I do like the fabric choices and the way the way the cabinetry and walls together, though. Thinking of doing the rear upper sections of the door panels, the pop-up blinds and the windshield curtain thing in navy plaid as a nod to the Westfalias from back in the day.
I do really miss having an awning though and I like the look of this bag ones. I don't need the thing to wind out in 30 seconds - if the other option is that it takes a minute or two, that's fine by me.
Regarding the heater, I ran 1/4in hard-ish nylon line instead of the floppy green stuff. I'll shield the pipe near the exhaust - good idea. Just ordered a quiet pump on your recommendation.
I would like to work out a way to get fuel from the TransferFlow auxiliary tank to the heater since I'd prefer not to use the crappy plastic tank that came with the unit.
Update time. Interior fabrics are all done. Still waiting on the upholstery guy to finish the seat and bed cushions.
Since this photo was taken I've added the plinth that run along the passenger side in the rear, and also wired in switches for the exterior area lights. It looks great.
Nearly done with the plumbing. Need to do another run to buy more ply (a 230-mile round trip - plan to take the SMB instead of my horrible truck), which I need to finish the kitchen cabinets. The worktop will probably come from Ikea, which is not far from the lumber place. Then we go skiing. I won't have it finished by then but it should be workable if upholsterer stays true to his word and I can get the diesel heater operational.
The front cab is also done, minus the sun visors (will have to go without those for the time being). The headliner and overhead storage shelf is trimmed in the same Mariner Blue tweed as the back of the truck. Replaced the old CB radio with two 12v sockets and a USB / USB-C socket. All looks neat and I'm generally happy with how it came out.
That said, I'm not really enjoying this process - it's all-consuming and not achieving the fit and finish of a $250k Sprinter / truck camper / Earth Roamer is tearing me up. I know this is ridiculous, but.
I do like the fabric choices and the way the way the cabinetry and walls together, though. Thinking of doing the rear upper sections of the door panels, the pop-up blinds and the windshield curtain thing in navy plaid as a nod to the Westfalias from back in the day.
Last edited:
bigriver-SMB
Senior Member
Looks great Lip
Similar threads
- bolty
- Member Classifieds
- Replies: 7
- Views: 860
- vanpurveyor
- Dealer Advertisements
- Replies: 0
- Views: 159
- Dtrav
- Member Classifieds
- Replies: 10
- Views: 646
- SierraHawk
- 4x4
- Replies: 10
- Views: 453
- cbrinkley71
- General Sportsmobile
- Replies: 8
- Views: 748
Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days
- Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
- Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
- Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
- and much more...
