Advantages & disadvantages of rooftop A/C vs built-in Starcool A/C systems

[Doug-D]

I'm a newbie & not mechanically inclined, please educate me on the pros and cons of a roof top a/c (the type you typically see on most RVs) and the built-in rear Starcool A/C systems that some vans have.

I'm guessing that the rooftop A/C is easier & less expensive to fix or replace than a Starcool, but that's a total assumption on my part.

The only obvious advantage I can see to the Starcool system is that it's a more streamlined look and allows you to park in certain places that a similar van with the rooftop A/C could not park due to height restrictions.

 

[marret]

Sportsmobile won’t install roof top A/Cs on pop tops/penthouses. I would prefer a roof top unit.

 

[86Scotty]

It's been a few years since there were many threads on this but many folks with Starcool vans have found them to be problematic and hard to find repairmen for when they get older. The fan underneath takes in a lot of crap and dies, that's about all I remember.

RV rooftop AC's used to be typically big boxy inefficient blocks, almost all 13,500 BTU and power hungry. All disadvantages for a camper van. Nowadays there are some different options but none are cheap. I put a low profile Coleman Polar Cub 9200? btu on a CCV pop top van and it was great but I haven't seen those around in awhile. It was much lower profile than the 13500 units, lighter and would run on a 2000 generator (like Honda/Yamaha type).

 

[carringb]

Under-mount 12-volt A/Cs are have more capacity than a roof-top 12-volt A/C.

If you'll only be using shore power, a 120-volt rooftop is far cheaper and simpler, but they're noisy and need a lot of power.

 

[BrianW.]

Most of the Starcool systems work on both 12vdc while driving and 110vac when on shore power, whereas rooftop units only work on 110vac (as far as I know). Starcool does 18,000 btu while driving and 12,000 btu when on shore power.

 

[Wowbagger]

A slightly more direct comparison: I have a Promaster Sportsmobile conversion with the Danhard AC unit (the modern version of the Starcool), which has the condenser and compressor under the rig. My friends have a Promaster Hymer conversion with a roof-top AC. From the outside, mine is significantly louder than theirs, simply because all the sound of their condenser fan and compressor goes up up and away, and mine is fired right into the ground and comes out the sides. However, since my condenser and compressor are in the shade, I get a bit of an advantage on cooling in the sun.

 

[arctictraveller]

If your considering installing a Starcool unit, I suspect you may have a hard time finding the components. A roof top unit will be pretty well self contained with no need to add refrigerant lines, additional condensers,fans,valves, wiring, relay boards and a second compressor. But, the roof top unit will only run on 110vac.

 

[dsdaviser]

Internal vs external AC

Without an awning or a rooftop unit, my SM is a stealth RV. I can use it as a second car, parked at any curb, and also my HOA parking lot. No storage issues.

That outweighs all the other considerations for me.
We only use it to cool before bed, with shore power. Has done fine for 8 years.

 

[N147JK]

Without an awning or a rooftop unit, my SM is a stealth RV.

Had a rooftop unit. Turned it on for 20 minutes one time, then never again. Noisy, power-hungry monster.

Instead, suggest installing one (or even two) large, opening skylights. They will let the heat out, and also provide a lot of great natural light into the cabin.