Agile Offroad Twin Traction Beam TTB Questions

[1der]

Ah, no. But rotor for the big brake kit is Centric 120.65.12

Premium Rotor, 13.50" X 1.50", ford Super-Duty

120. 65.12

 

[RVflyfish]

Right, but unfortunately Centric 120.65112 is 8x170, and like you said, my axles are 8x6.5.

That’s why what Agile did on SwellRunner’s setup is so intriguing. If I were able to make 8x170 work, I wouldn’t stop at 13.5” rotors. I’d go for the 14.3’s off 2013+ front axles.

 

[1der]

Maybe they drilled them out. That was the parts list they provided with the brake upgrade. Definitely 8x6.5 bolt pattern.

 

[1der]

I just checked the Centric 120.65112

Rotor Bolt Circle Diameter:
6.50 in

 

[RVflyfish]

I was seeing conflicting info on vendor sites. So I went to Centric’s. It says 8x170.

Not trying to be argumentative. It’s just that I would LOVE bigger brakes. So I’m trying to find what will work.

 

[swellrunner]

Ray did you ever confirm this? Are your wheels 8x6.5 or 8x170?

Did you ever find out more about this? I’m doing a homebrew TTB conversion, and over the hub rotors would be a lot easier to work with down the road than behind the hub.

My rotors are 100% over the hubs.

 

[swellrunner]

Reading through this again I realized I never did a follow up. I got everything reassembled. And after putting roughly 1,000 miles on it all and measuring hub temps, they’re a consistent 110-115, a little warmer than passenger side but totally normal.

During reassembly, I initially had a difficult time getting the Warn hubs in because the stub axle wasn’t perfectly centered in the spindle. I was able to get it centered by turning the steering wheel and raising and lowering the drivers side (with the jack), to finally get it aligned. Once it was lined up, the Warn hub slid right in.

The spiral locking ring was a booger to get in but I found that you just gotta be patient.

 

[RVflyfish]

My rotors are 100% over the hubs.

So interesting. It’s like you have a unicorn. Were you ever able to confirm if your spacing is 8x6.5 or 8x170?

 

[swellrunner]

I spoke with Jesus at Agile who told me all of their TTB conversions were built like mine.

I was getting confusing readings off the plastic Amazon gauge I bought to check bolt pattern when attempting to get a reading from the outside of the wheel. I need to try again from the inside of the wheel as I believe it will be more accurate.

I have not done so yet.

 

[RVflyfish]

1der and I have been talking. Looking at your last pic and the work list, it seems Agile drilled the rotors to fit 8x6.5 spacing. That’s wild to me, because unless I misunderstand, the new holes have to be perfect or the rotor will spin out of round?

 

[swellrunner]

The rotors slide over the stud bolts and are held in place.

 

[RVflyfish]

Yes, I get that. But if the new holes are drilled even slightly off, the rotors will be held in place in the wrong place. Then they won’t spin true. They’ll oscillate up and down.

To be clear, I’ve never heard of anyone talk about this happening. So tip of the cap to Ramsey and Agile. Skills.

Edit: Ray pointed out the rotor is likely hub centric, so the hub will keep it centered.

 

[Big_ern_101]

Rotor definitely has been drilled from 8x170 to 8x6.5. Not sure if its hubcentric from the pics but thats easy enough to confirm with a caliper.

 

[Ldo-SMB]

New member and late to the party here. I have an AO TTB van as well. Centric 120.65112 is for 2011+ F250 with 8x170. I remember Jesus mentioning drilling the holes to 3/4" to fit larger studs on the E350, but I think it's to fit the 8x6.5 pattern as well (?). I'm looking to service the front wheel bearings soon (after 60K miles), and this thread has been informational.

 

[RVflyfish]

1der and I had a long convo about this. I’m virtually positive the primary reason was to accept the 8x6.5 pattern. I’ve done a deep dive and it’s not easy at all to convert a TTB to 8x170. It would require LOTS of custom fab work. Much easier to drill out 8x170 rotors and move on.

I suppose larger studs could be a second reason, as they may need to change to accept an over-the-hub rotor.

I’ll be visiting both issues when I start my conversion and will post what I find.

 

[VanDiesel73]

Hey Guys,
I'm also the proud owner of a 1998 e350 Powerstroke with a TTB. I urchased it as decommissioned ambulance 3 years ago. Clydesdale supposedly converted to 4WD back in the days but I am not 100% sure and they are not either haha. This is a really interesting topic because RVFlyfish is right, replacing rotors when they are behind the hub flange is a lot more work. What i am trying to understand is how the caliper can lined up properly if the rotor is now sitting on the other side if the hub flange?

Also Swell runner would you mind sharing a picture of your radius arm and radius arm bracket? My van has the Short OE radius arm and I would like to get some extended one down the road
A pic of the Van at the hills last Fall During a 6000km road trip!

 

[boywonder]

I don't know what Agile is doing these days, but back in the Ramsey days they were enlarging the 8 x 170mm holes just enough to slide over 8 x 6.5" studs. It's easy enough to have your rotors re-drilled for 8 x 6.5" if you know someone with a mill and a rotary table.

I did just that on a few rotors when fitting larger brakes on my van....

 

[RVflyfish]

Owner are those behind- or over-the-hub rotors?

 

[1der]

@VanDiesel73 - fyi : The TTB in your Clydesdale may be a Dana 44HD TTB, not Dana 50.

One way to identify the axle is measuring the hub diameter:

 

[VanDiesel73]

@VanDiesel73 - fyi : The TTB in your Clydesdale may be a Dana 44HD TTB, not Dana 50.

One way to identify the axle is measuring the hub diameter:
View attachment 1328274

Hey 1Der mine is definitely a 50. I spent countless hours reading about it when I got it. My hub definitely measure 4’’ diameter