Auxiliary Portable Folding Solar Panels

[Scalf77]

I believe I saw these folding panels in post by Twoxentrix.

My 200 watt unit is from www.lensunsolar.com It has 5 40 Watt panels that fold out and deploy at an angle. The panel I purchased did not come with a controller, it just has MC4 connectors.

To hook the folding panel into my existing system I used a Marinco 12VCP - ConnectPro Receptacle & Plug Kit

I wired the receptacle in parallel with my existing panels. I chose to use Dual PowerPost Cable Connectors , but you could get away with paralleling at the controller in most cases.

I made a quick cable by cutting the ends off one of the sides of a MC4 extension cable. and connecting to the plug. You see below the panel is deployed in my driveway. This was about 10:30 in the morning and I was getting consistently over 9 amps, when combined with the panels on the top of the van I was reading 25 amps. Total wattage of panels all panels is 560 watts.

The nice thing about these panels is there folding size 22” x 21” x 2.5”, also the extension cable rolls up nicely and fits in the zippered pouch.

And more importantly stowed in the rig.

-greg

 

[BroncoHauler-SMB]

Interesting, and promising, panels Greg. I'm still somewhat leery of panels that have the potential for a lot of flex. Please give us periodic updates about the longevity of these panels.




Herb

 

[Twoxentrix]

Actually I ended out using the ACOPOWER 120W Portable Solar Panel 3x40W Foldable Suitcase - Essentially the same concept as Scalf77 has shared.

I use two of these suitcases (since they come with MC4 connections I added the "Y Branch adapters" so both feed into the 75ft line that leads to my Van)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF8YN94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788J7PNH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been working great for about 18 months now & everything still looks and operates as new (On a relatively clear day It will produce 10.5 - 12amps out of this set-up).

***Scalf77 - I like the way you orchestrated your connection to the Van

 

[renegadeoverland]

Scalf/Twoxentrix

I am still coming up to speed on power metrics provided from panels. When you say your panels produce X amp of current, is there a unit associated with that? E.G. is that X amps per minute/hour/day? I am assuming hour as that is the standard I see for draw (AH/WH battery ratings) but wanted to verify.

In my ongoing re-design of my solar system I want to up grade my roof panels from 200W to at least 300W but adding an auxiliary setup like that that I can setup when I am in camp mode is an intriguing idea.

I will be bookmarking/following this thread with a lot of interest.

 

[BroncoHauler-SMB]

If your solar panels produce 10 Amps, that is a reading at one given moment. If that same panel produces 10 Amps over a 1 hour period, that is then 10 Amp-hours, or 10 AH.




Herb

 

[renegadeoverland]

If your solar panels produce 10 Amps, that is a reading at one given moment. If that same panel produces 10 Amps over a 1 hour period, that is then 10 Amp-hours, or 10 AH.




Herb

gotcha... so its an instantaneous read. If you were to log that over a given period of time you could find the aggregate rate for your desired period but that will fluctuate based on cloud cover and time of day. Thanks I now know how to model it in my mental schematic

 

[Twoxentrix]

renegadeoverland - I pursued the panel concept based on the fact my 160wt roof panel does little good while camping simply because I elect to park where I receive the most shade.
My 75ft cord that comes from the Van allows me to position the panel in a location to take advantage of the sun. The second panel has an additional 25ft cord (which attaches to the "Y" branch where the first panel connects to the cord) allowing me to position either with the first, or at a little more of an angle to capture the sun at a different angle - this way I dont have to tend the pair as often (or in many cases at all).
I chose the thin flexible panel because of storage flexibility due to size & weight. The frame has grommets and on occasion I've hung one from a tree as well as the side of my van. Placed them on rocks in a stream and placed over the front of my windshield a time or two - simply easier to handle than metal framed units.
I looked for a system that offered SunPower Solar cells, and units that have that extra outer ETFE coating on them for added protection (Lexun suitcase has this as well). The controller is just an inexpensive 10wt controller that is also detachable, has starter battery clips, and 2 ports to charge phones/laptops

May find this info helpful in your search:
https://bestportablesolargenerators.com/100w-folding-solar-panels/

 

[Scalf77]

Scalf/Twoxentrix

I am still coming up to speed on power metrics provided from panels. When you say your panels produce X amp of current, is there a unit associated with that? E.G. is that X amps per minute/hour/day? I am assuming hour as that is the standard I see for draw (AH/WH battery ratings) but wanted to verify.

In my ongoing re-design of my solar system I want to up grade my roof panels from 200W to at least 300W but adding an auxiliary setup like that that I can setup when I am in camp mode is an intriguing idea.

I will be bookmarking/following this thread with a lot of interest.

Obviously it can get confusing when we talk about the output of panels. At the same time I installed my aux solar input, I was changing to a different solar controller, so I needed a couple of days to code in the changes. This is a Snap Shot from my "Solar Monitor". On the left you can see the panel information, I record the array volts and array current and calculate the watts based on that information. The temp readings are for my two hard mounted panels, which is disconnected at this time.

We have a array voltage of 16.6 volts and a array current of 7.8 amps, display says 127.8 watts.(note watts is currently calculated when voltage updates)


Now we move to the controller output, we have a voltage of 13.2 volts and a current of 9.0 amps giving us a display of 118.6 watts. This is the actual power that is being put into the battery at this moment.

I do show AmpHrs, but at this time this value is calculated from the time I start the program.

-greg

 

[86Scotty]

I used to think suitcase type solar was just another unneeded piece of jewelry for our van/overland addiction. I was wrong, they have come a long way. Impressive output Greg and Felix. I was checking out Felix's setup this past weekend. Very well made and executed.

:b5:

 

[Scalf77]

On my last outing I was having issues with my refrigerator, so deploying the aux panels became very important. I was able to keep moving the panels as the sun was going down and extend the time I was receiving solar.

Moving the 5 panels setup can be a little challenging, but still very doable. For the size this takes up and power it can provide I give is a solid thumbs up :d8:

-greg

 

[Scalf77]

Thought I would update this thread as a changes a component in the system. I wasn't real happy with Marinco 12VCP - ConnectPro Receptacle & Plug Kit. So when looking around I found this

on the powerwrex website. I have used anderson pole connectors for heavy amp connectors, but never really looked at their smaller amperage connectors.

As you can see you have two aux connection points, so I made up a pigtail to go from 1 10 gauge wire to two 10 gauge wires, so that both connectors would be live.

The butt joint connectors can be found a Waytek Wire #32990 Sealed Multiple Wire Connector, One 12-10GA to Two 12-10GA

Now I have two aux solar connectors

On my Lensun cable all I changed was the Connect-Pro Plug.

I also had purchased a very cheap aux setup a while back, it is basically two flexible panels held together with a zipper. The quality of the unit lacks so I will not be posting a review on it. Anyway for it the parallel MC4 connectors at the panels were two much, So I used the same butt joint connectors above to combine the panels and put an Anderson pole connector on the end.

I then made up a cable with both ends being Anderson-pole connectors.

I made a couple cables 15 ft & 25 ft, as they can be used as extension cables

This is the flexible panels, they deploy a little easier than the Lensun, really don't take up a lot of room.

The hardest part about making the Anderson-pole cables is keeping the orientation correct, of course I also needed a new crimper.

-greg

 

[Orv-SMB]

I've used powerpoles a lot for ham radio gear. They're very reliable connectors. They're also hermaphroditic (no male/female distinction), which is handy in some setups.

 

[Twoxentrix]

I havent relocated my current auxiliary input - its still the "Y" connectors on the top of my roof. Very functional, and easy to connect my panels as long as I remember to plug the cable in before I raise the top...but I really like the Powerwerx system you showcased here. Think I'll go this route, Thanks for posting!

 

[Scalf77]

I thought I would update this thread, the Powerwerx Panelpole connector I switched to for my auxiliary solar connector now comes in a single version.

This does away with the dual input splice I hade to make, and use of a single 10 awg input wire. As with the powerpole2 connector, they come with 30 amp contacts, if you want to use 10 awg wire then you will need to purchase the 45 amp contacts.

Their TRIcrimp crimping tool is a reasonably priced crimping tool. Using and their PP45 connectors would also allow you to make reasonably priced extension cables.

-greg

 

[Scalf77]

For those that have installed larger 36 volt panels on their vans and are still looking to do a aux panel in parallel, Lensun makes a 200W 36V folding package. These are the same as their 200W 18 Volt package, they both use four 50W 18v panels. The 36V unit just does a series parallel wiring scheme.

-greg

 

[BCam]

I'm also a Ham and am a fan of Anderson Powerpole connectors. One thing that's really nice about the Powerwerx Panelpole receptacle is that the Powerpole connectors are replaceable in case of wear or breakage.

Here's a current link: Search Results | Powerwerx

Orv's comment "They're also hermaphroditic (no male/female distinction), which is handy in some setups." might be a little misleading.

Once you've wired them up and paired them together the way you want them, the two pairs will only connect together in one way. You don't have to think about if you're plugging them together in the wrong way. It's the right/left configuration of the pairs that matters, not the construction of the individual connecters.

Ideally you'd use a crimper made for attaching Powerpole connectors but, they can be connected without the special crimper which are available at a number of price-points. I use a crimper but Youtube has a number of other methodologies.

 

[Bear-SMB]

Thanks for posting the butt joint connector’s. Looking to make a connection under my van. Recommendation to make water/dust tight?

 

[Scalf77]

I assume you mean make the connection to the Powerwerx Panelpole connector water/dust tight. You might try Rubber Waterproof Straight Boot For 12V Plug Socket

-greg

 

[Bear-SMB]

Greg,
So sorry, bad question description. I am looking add an additional solar plug-in inside of the van so I can put the solar panels in the van front window when we leave for walks and etc. I accept some solar power loss but doing it for solar panel thief prevention. I have a 10 ga wire running from an exterior plug-in under the van body to the solar controller and would like to splice that wire with a new wire that would run into the van under the drivers seat and add a plug-in there. The splice connection would be exposed to water, dust and etc. And would like to make it water/dust proof. Recommendation?

Thanks Bear

 

[Scalf77]

The butt connector posted are adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. This should be fine under the van, You could also cover with additional heat shrink if thought more was needed.

-greg