Cell Signal Booster install question. Routing coax.

[dbhost]

So after this camping trip, and the fact due to professional and personal communications and data requirements, I need to stay online while off grid as much as possible.

I have been eyeballing a signal booster for a while, but this trip to Huntsville SP with the 5G / 4G going up and down the entire time, barely enough for SMS but forget data... Amazon had a lightning deal on the HiBoost Travel 3.0 Explore X, more or less the same thing as a Weboost Overland but with a better warranty, and honestly better reviews from verified purchasers...

I can use one of the brackets that came with the awning to create a platform over the awning to mount the antenna, but my concern comes in the form of... How do I route the coax into the van?

Would something like this allow the coax to pass through and remain sealed?
https://amzn.to/3BRCWj6

 

[1der]

We have WeBoost on one of the rigs. It works, but there has to be a minimum signal and our phone needs to be near (like 12" near) the inside antenna to receive the boosted signal. This means the inside antenna has to be able to move from the front seats to cabin seating positions. Make sure to protect/reinforce the inside antenna cord connection to the antennna base, it is fragile.

Important to keep proper separation between the outside and inside antennas which is why our outside antenna is at the back most passenger corner on the pop top roof rack. You will want the antenna above any roof/pop top to keep it clear of obstructions.

The cable entry is pretty straight forward. The pass through you posted should be fine.

I wired the antenna power supply to 12 volts and put a switch by the driver position for the the power. These use a bit more power than one thinks!

 

[nyyankees588]

I would second what 1der said - I don't know anything about the HiBoost, but I installed and have used a WeBoost for the past ~1yr. I find it hard to quantify how much of a difference it makes. I've never had a "wow" moment, just a bunch of "huh, I guess it helps" moments when my cell has 1-2 bars of service and gets +1 bar when I turn it on. Data service still typically is slow, I'm guessing because the cell networks in remote areas are typically slower regardless of how strong your signal is (but that's just my hypothesizing, don't know if it is fact).



I haven't installed/used a Starlink myself (I've used others' to connect a few times), but if reliable data in remote areas were of high importance (and I could manage the slightly higher upfront cost and added monthly fee), I would pursue the Starlink.


For your routing question - yep, the gland you posted works. I would suggest installing a port that has holes for 2+ glands, if possible (they sell 2-hole ports exactly like the one you posted and there are lots of other variations that have more ports). Seal the unused gland using a space length of scrap wire. You never know what you might want to run a wire to in the future (additional solar, lights, etc) and if you're already putting a hole in the roof, it's way easier to have room to add to your port in the future, rather than having to drill a second hole for a separate port or swapping ports.

 

[1der]

As nyyankees588 added - IF data is critical and the monthly is in the budget, I would hold my nose and pay about the same amount for a Starlink mini antenna and the $50/$60 per month data plan. I could probably adjust my cell and home internet plans to help subsidize it.

The times in Baja on remote beaches and ability to connect w SLink were truly eye opening. No stress data connection and internet calling. Wish we had alternatives - Apple might be close w iphone satellite texting abilities - fingers crossed

 

[Big_ern_101]

Save your money. None of the cell phone boosters can make signal out of thin air. They don't do any more for you than taking a little short walk to find a clearing with a little better signal. If they were a magic bullet, every off-gridder would have one.

A few alternate options for you that would be more beneficial.
-A WIFI hotspot on a different provider. My phone is on Verizon, my hotspot is on AT&T. I can be in situations where Verizon is a dead zone and AT&T is awesome, or vice versa.
-A travelling companion on a different plan. I am on Verizon, and my wife is on Spectrum (not ideal, same towers) when she was on Google Fi and I was on Verizon, we could share data back and forth as needed based on signal.
-Starlink as mentioned previous.
-Garmin InReach. Basically a sattelite repeater for your existing phone. Not usable for day to day stuff at a reasonable cost but does provide that "anywhere in the world" contactability.
-Dedicated sattelite phone. Again, not real practical for day to day stuff unless you can get work to pay for it, they are not the McBudget option. Data is pretty poor on them too.

 

[Scalf77]

First and foremost, the Mobile Internet Resource Center is a great resource for staying connected in an RV or Boat. They provide a great deal of data outside of their paywall.

Things I would take into consideration before going the booster route would be the following. What are your real needs, you mentioned for both professional and personal communications and data requirements. Does your current mobile data plan cover those requirements? Who is your current carrier? Boosters only work on certain bands. Is upload of data your primary concern, boosters are better at increasing performance for upload, versus download. Do you need to have multiple devices connecting?

I went with a cellular mobile router as my solution for better connectivity. I also have a Starlink Mini installed. You can view the installation in my build thread. I have had a USB mobile hotspot as one of the devices on my family plan for a while. I just removed the SIM card from that device and use it in the modem for my system. So, this didn’t really increase my cost for data, although if I were a heavy user that may be different. Many full timers may run multiple SIMS and have coverage from multiple providers.

I also installed the Starlink Mini a couple of weeks ago, haven’t been able to get any real data usage from it yet. Starlink itself is going to be hurt by tree cover, and oversaturation of existing satellites. The more popular the area the less the bandwidth is just like cellular.

The Mini has reasonable power usage, compared to previous generations, but still can be a significant power user. The mini is portable, so it can easily be deployed at your site. The router is built into the mini, so you can’t place it too far away from the van, as you need to attach to the Starlink using WIFI. As I already have a router, I have chosen to disable the Startlink router and cable it to my existing router. This also generally gives you better performance. The Mini has a wide power input, while it will run off 12 volts, if you are running longer cabling you should probably boost the power up. I am using a 12 to 24 volt booster. I have mine hard mounted to the top of my van. It can be removed in the event I was staying in one location long enough to make that worthwhile.

In any event I would check out other options, it could be that a booster would be a fairly expensive band-aid versus a real solution.

 

[dbhost]

As nyyankees588 added - IF data is critical and the monthly is in the budget, I would hold my nose and pay about the same amount for a Starlink mini antenna and the $50/$60 per month data plan. I could probably adjust my cell and home internet plans to help subsidize it.

The times in Baja on remote beaches and ability to connect w SLink were truly eye opening. No stress data connection and internet calling. Wish we had alternatives - Apple might be close w iphone satellite texting abilities - fingers crossed

Starlink Roam Unlimited is $165.00 month, I plan on adding it later...

I currently have a Google Fi unlimited plan that does not seem to throttle too badly...

The booster was recommended by a friend that has one in his Class A and he at least claims it covers most of the coach.

The WeBoost seems to require it be super close to the interior antenna...

 

[Charliesmom-SMB]

I first put a WeBoost in our teardrop trailer in 2017 using dual mini magnet antennas on top of the rig. The performance was marginal so I added a MiFi hotspot (Verizon). The system was improved but data costs were unreasonable on the $15/mo base plan. When we purchased our SMB in 2019 we added a permanent NMO antenna on the roof with the WeBoost unit, including a new “inside” desktop antenna. In 2022 when Starlink became available, we purchased a Gen 2. It was a game changer for us when we had no cell coverage. We would activate it before we left on a trip and pause it when we returned home. We also deployed it at home when the local cable internet was down, which is not infrequent in our area. We purchased a Starlink mini when it was on sale this fall (Roam $50/month - plan 50G for when we are in the van. Our plan is to eventually dump our Cox cable internet, as we no longer have traditional telephone or television needs and install the SL Gen 2 on our roof for home internet. We will still use our WeBoost in the van when we have cell availability. The fact that you no longer require an internet connection to activate SL means that if we are traveling to an unknown “cell coverage” region, we can activate our new mini on the fly. As mentioned above, it’s good to have options for connectivity. The MIRC has been a go to for us, also.

 

[dbhost]

...As mentioned above, it’s good to have options for connectivity. The MIRC has been a go to for us, also.

Absolutely. Unfortunately I cannot afford to do everything at once. My plan is to get the most out of the service I have now. That should cover the majority of my needs. A Starlink Mini is in the plan, just not yet. I am figuring installing it on the piece of roof not covered by the Penthouse top.

 

[Big_ern_101]

My experience with Google Fi was that it was OK for signal but usually a bit lacking compared to Verizon, as Google is an MNVO and just contracts the towers they use; they don't hit everything. Wife on Google Fi would often need me to tether her phone to my Verizon phone for decent internets while outside of major metro areas.

I would 100% recommend test driving another carrier before going too ape on cell phone boosters and starlink. The two big guys left are AT&T and Verizon, personal experience has them pretty equal but both excel in different areas. I can have full 5G on AT&T and be stone dead on Verizon or vice versa depending on where I am.

 

[BrianW.]

On my current and past van I just ran the cable from the outside Weboost antenna under the door jamb molding/weatherstrip. Never had an issue.

 

[dbhost]

On my current and past van I just ran the cable from the outside Weboost antenna under the door jamb molding/weatherstrip. Never had an issue.

Where did you have the antenna mounted?

 

[1der]

quote:
I can use one of the brackets that came with the awning to create a platform over the awning to mount the antenna, but my concern comes in the form of... How do I route the coax into the van?

Your external antenna really wants to be on the top of the pop top in one of the back corners. The cable can be routed through the fiberglass outboard of the canvas, then looped over the the top of the canvas to the inside and down one of the corners to the inside module.



Obviously a CCV pop top but location would be similar.

 

[dbhost]

quote:
I can use one of the brackets that came with the awning to create a platform over the awning to mount the antenna, but my concern comes in the form of... How do I route the coax into the van?

Your external antenna really wants to be on the top of the pop top in one of the back corners. The cable can be routed through the fiberglass outboard of the canvas, then looped over the the top of the canvas to the inside and down one of the corners to the inside module.

View attachment 52767

Obviously a CCV pop top but location would be similar.

I was trying to avoid poking holes in the fiberglass.

On the CCV pop top, that is much higher than a SMB Penthouse roof. The base of the antenna mounted to a modified bracket off of the awning would actually be higher than, or at least level to... the height of the Penthouse roof.

But... Let's assume that I am comfortable drilling the fiberglass since I have plenty of Butyl tape... And there are gobs of what looks like Dicor on some raised points on the roof that look like maybe there are bolts buried under there for a roof rack...

How would I route the coax into the van? I am figuring on installing the actual booster box under the drivers seat if possible, and the interior antenna just above the fridge.

 

[Big_ern_101]

Before I knocked holes in my van for a meme device that provides marginal gainz, I would mount the receiver on this thing linked below and then just run the cord into my van.

https://tinyurl.com/dmwhkx8n

If it does what you need, then you can work on permanent solutions and if it doesn't, you can send it back within the river store return window.

 

[1der]

I was trying to avoid poking holes in the fiberglass.

On the CCV pop top, that is much higher than a SMB Penthouse roof. The base of the antenna mounted to a modified bracket off of the awning would actually be higher than, or at least level to... the height of the Penthouse roof.

But... Let's assume that I am comfortable drilling the fiberglass since I have plenty of Butyl tape... And there are gobs of what looks like Dicor on some raised points on the roof that look like maybe there are bolts buried under there for a roof rack...

How would I route the coax into the van? I am figuring on installing the actual booster box under the drivers seat if possible, and the interior antenna just above the fridge.

Drilling holes through the fiberglass in the space outside of the canvas is done on SMB roofs a lot. SMB pre wire for solar pass the wires down through a hole that is outside of the canvas and then loops the wire over the top of the canvas. Roof rails are through bolted outboard of the canvas to avoid a leak potential inboard of the canvas. see pics

My concern is having the antenna blocked when the pop top is up. The antenna needs to be on the highest point when the top is up.

Once the wire comes over the top edge of the canvas it routes down one of the corners. You already have wires running to the ceiling lights in one corner.

Mount the booster wherever is convenient, can be in a cabinet or wherever. You need 12 volts or 120 volts depending requirement. (note: the 120v plug is likely12 vdc output to the booster) And your internal antenna needs to have separation from the external antenna. And your phone or MiFi needs to be within 12 inches of your internal antenna to receive the boosted signal. The inside antenna boosted signal has a small range so the external antenna does not pick up the inside signal.

 

[1der]

Before I knocked holes in my van for a meme device that provides marginal gainz, I would mount the receiver on this thing linked below and then just run the cord into my van.

https://tinyurl.com/dmwhkx8n

If it does what you need, then you can work on permanent solutions and if it doesn't, you can send it back within the river store return window.

While I cannot attest to the HiBoost unit, I can say the WeBoost unit we have has made connection possible in marginal areas that without it we had no usable or super weak signal. I have the booster unit on a switch so I can turn it on and off since it does draw a decent amount power. So, I know clearly if the unit is contributing to a better signal inside the van or not.

Trying to test these in the driveway is not going to tell you anything. Been there. And I am skeptical of things and do lots of research. In my living room, in our house that has crappy cell reception, it sucked. Mounted on the van and in remote areas, it helps. It is not a magical cell signal generator. It is not Starlink. But it has given us connection for texting or a call and light surfing in spots where without the booster we were without connection.

But, as I have said and if one reads the reviews, there needs to be proper separation between inside and outside antennas and the inside antenna needs to be very close to the phone.

Nothing wrong with bringing the unit with you and trying out before mounting. Just make sure you are in the right spot. I also downloaded a cell signal monitoring app on to my phone to see if there was a gain in signal with the unit on or off. There was definitely a difference in gain.

 

[superduty]

"So after this camping trip, and the fact due to professional and personal communications and data requirements, I need to stay online while off grid as much as possible."


if you TRULY need to stay "online" you are going to be EXTREMELY disappointed with any cell phone "booster."

When you say online, do you mean internet connection? A booster will not give you an internet connection. If you mean maybe a phone call here and there or a text message, assuming your expectations are very low, you are still going to be disappointed, just maybe not extremely.

You will be very limited to where you can camp. You will need to pick spots that are just on the edge of cell phone service if you want the booster to help at all. Even then I am not convinced.

The reality is - good luck at finding that "perfect" off grid camp spot that also meets the exact parameters of the booster actually helping.

Personally, I think the boosters are worthless and a complete waste of money. I camped (many times) with a friend who had a weboost. When conditions were "right" for its use, I felt it barely helped, if at all.

If being connected is really a factor, then currently Starlink is the ONLY solution. Soon Tmobile will have cell to satellite available if text messaging is enough for you. At some point I presume Apple will make texting available for non emergency use.

Don't waste your money and install time on a booster. Save your money for Starlink or camp in spots that have cell service. I am actually amazed at the number of locations where there is cell service these days. Much better than it was 5 years ago.

 

[AndrewInSeattle]

On my current and past van I just ran the cable from the outside Weboost antenna under the door jamb molding/weatherstrip. Never had an issue.

Ditto. In the rare cases where our WeBoost gets deployed (cell signal exists, but only barely), I stick the magnetically attached outside antenna on the roof above the driver's seat, run the cord through the door jamb, and set up the hardware on the driver's seat itself, plugged into the van's cigarette lighter. Then I string the indoor antenna cord to the back, kept out of the way with some simple stick-on Command cord clips along the wall, and either velcro it to the ceiling, or -- more often, since the effect is marginal -- sandwich it directly onto the phone.

Set up takes about 5 minutes at most, break down is faster. It looks janky, but it works, and no holes in the van. I originally started doing this with the intention of a more permanent installation if it worked out, but came to actually appreciate the simplicity and portability.

As others have said, a booster only gets you so far. Email, texts, catching up on mostly-text-based news. Don't expect to attend videoconferences without lots of hiccups.

 

[dbhost]

Before I knocked holes in my van for a meme device that provides marginal gainz, I would mount the receiver on this thing linked below and then just run the cord into my van.

https://tinyurl.com/dmwhkx8n

If it does what you need, then you can work on permanent solutions and if it doesn't, you can send it back within the river store return window.

Considering I went "remote" with solar, this actually kind of makes sense...

If it wouldn't trash the antenna connection, no harm to routing through the access hatch from the electrical compartment and running the internal antenna where I would be more likely to use it, and just set up by the solar panels...