Clanging sound: shock bumping Transferflow tank on RB van

[geoffff]

For years I've been trying to track down this annoyingly loud "clangity-clang-clang" sound from under the van that happens whenever I drive over a series of bumps (which is anytime I'm trying to have "fun" with the van). This kind of problem is so hard to find when parked in the garage. I've been tempted to somehow hang upside down looking under the van as my wife drives.

Anyway, I've been spending a lot of time lately in the garage crawling around under my van, and -- I think I found it!

The left(driver)-rear shock is positioned only a few mm from my TransferFlow gas tank, and the shock appears to have been banging against it. A lot. See photo. And sure enough, if I tap on this with a wrench, it makes the same kind of sound I've been hearing while driving.



If you happen to also have a Ford regular-body with the TransferFlow gas tank, you might want to take a look into this as well.

I'm not sure how I'm going to fix this, as I don't think I can move the tank or the shock. I will probably try to find something strong and thin and impact-absorbing to wedge in that crack.

Any ideas?

-- Geoff

 

[Pschitt]

Since VivaLaVida have two shocks in each corner, had to relocate one on the left rear end when installing the Transflow tank. Just relocated a shock bracket by welding a new one and it now clears the tank well.

 

[86Scotty]

Since VivaLaVida have two shocks in each corner, had to relocate one on the left rear end when installing the Transflow tank. Just relocated a shock bracket by welding a new one and it now clears the tank well.

That's probably the simplest and best idea, since modifying or moving a tank that has already had fuel in it is trouble. For now, could you wrap a bike tube or something around it with a couple of zip ties and see if that quiets it for awhile? It might buy you some time at least.

:b5:

 

[TomsBeast]

Some shocks can be run normal or upside down (Bilstien, Fox, etc). It would take some research to figure out the fitment, since our van have a stud mount top, eye bottom configuration in the rear. If you didn't want to relocate a shock mount, running an inverted shock might be an option.

 

[geoffff]

If you didn't want to relocate a shock mount, running an inverted shock might be an option.

That would be a nice easy fix, but I don't think I can invert these shocks. The rear shocks have a loop on one end and a rod on the other, as pictured on the left below:



If I try inserting some kind of armor to block the clanging, I am considering wrapping the shock with the super-strong tape Sportsmobile supplied to protect the van roof from the penthouse rubbing, "Avery UHA" tape. Probably enhanced with some zip ties to prevent it from unraveling.

-- Geoff

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

You can not invert your shocks as they have different mounts top and bottom, also those shocks are dual tube an cannot be run upside down.

VidaLaVida and Ujoint do not use stock upper shock mounting so that is why that worked.

This is a problem we have run into on customers' vans. The simplest solution is to drill another hole in the upper crossmember, just a short distance away, and remount the shock there, where it will not interfere. Easy fix...

 

[geoffff]

This is a problem we have run into on customers' vans. The simplest solution is to drill another hole in the upper crossmember, just a short distance away, and remount the shock there, where it will not interfere. Easy fix...

Thanks for the idea! I take a look and see if I am up for making this change.

-- Geoff

 

[TomsBeast]

That would be a nice easy fix, but I don't think I can invert these shocks. The rear shocks have a loop on one end and a rod on the other, as pictured on the left below...

In my experience, not all shocks can be inverted and still work properly. But many can.

Looks like your interference is on the cover (that protects the shaft) You'd likely be looking at upgrading shocks to something like a Bilstein 5125 series. Here's a link to Bilstein's downloadable catalog:

Bilstein, Innovation and High Quality Since 1873

Then download the "Offroad" shock catalog. Scroll to page 23 'custom fit'. There are shocks in all sorts of configurations, shown by length, end type, and valving. My van has a 4" lift, so you will likey need a different shock p/n than I would. All the 5125 series shocks don't have a metal cover, rather, a compliant urethane boot.

I can't tell from you picture where the thing is hitting for certain, but you might find running a stud top eye bottom, right side up, would place the interference where the flexible boot is.

 

[TomsBeast]

or maybe

carefully cut off the upper protective tube, replace it with a urethane boot...

 

[geoffff]

This is a problem we have run into on customers' vans. The simplest solution is to drill another hole in the upper crossmember, just a short distance away, and remount the shock there, where it will not interfere. Easy fix...

Hi BajaSportsmobile --

Well, took the shock off and took a look.

The way the upper crossmember is sculpted, it looks to me that I can't really move too far left from the original position for a new hole. There doesn't seem to be room for another hole next to the current one, except for directly adjacent (essentially touching) the other hole (to the west or northwest in my photo). Seeing my photo below, do you agree? And I'd be up against where the upper crossmember starts curving down.

Also, I'm not sure I'm up for drilling a 1" hole with my handheld drill while sitting under the van.



Unfortunately in this process I tore apart the bushing that holds the top of the shock in the hole, so I'll have to figure out how to order a replacement for this:



Does anyone know how I can google up a replacement upper shock bushing?

-- Geoff

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

Yes, you only need to move it over just a little bit.

We throw those bushings away all the time - I'll see if I have one tomorrow.

 

[geoffff]

Yes, you only need to move it over just a little bit.

We throw those bushings away all the time - I'll see if I have one tomorrow.

Thank you!

Would you place the new hole overlapping the old one slightly, perhaps by a quarter inch?

Otherwise any new hole would start to be in the crease part of the crossmember that changes angle and starts tilting away from the shock mount angle, right? Would you still drill there?

-- Geoff

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

I wouldn't overlap without welding in a washer...

Just adjacent to it. It is going to be off angle a little, but this didn't seem to be a problem in our examples. The bottom mounts will also be a little stressed over... that is the trade off. I'll be under a van installing a RIP Kit later this morning and I'll take a better look and report back.

 

[geoffff]

I think I've figured out what the bushing part I need is called: a "shock mount isolator", such as the Motorcraft AD-947.

I'm going to be brave and drill a new hole when my new drill bit arrives. I'm thinking of putting my new hole in one of these two places:



-- Geoff

 

[Gooseberry-SMB]

I would cut the dust shield off first seeing it's already protected by the tank


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[geoffff]

I would cut the dust shield off first seeing it's already protected by the tank

Yeah, that would be simpler in some ways. The shield is pretty beefy metal, but I'm pretty sure I could take it off with 10 minutes of angle grinding.

Now that I look, plastic "replacement" shock boots are sold -- so I maybe could use one of those to keep dirt out: Tuff Country 69127 Black Universal Shock Boot

I'm a novice here. Each one of these van projects is a learning experience for me. But it feels good to understand more about my van, and not be driving around a magic box that I only investigate when it breaks down 30 miles from pavement.

Anyone else want to weigh in with a vote on what I should do here?

Thanks!
-- Geoff

 

[ert01]

I would personally relocate the shock, but the option of removing the dust shield and putting on a new rubber boot is also a good option if you don't want to drill.

The way I see it, drilling and relocating is free and 20 min of work. The boot option is probably the same duration of work but $10 for the boot. I'd choose free.

 

[geoffff]

My main concern is not doing anything that would lead to other issues down the road (or out in the field). When I'm not familiar with a system, I'm wary about changing it.

But it's sounding to me like either option should be low impact/risk.

-- Geoff

 

[Pschitt]

I would personaly relocate the shock because it will allow you to replace shocks in the future without having to do any change. But I would weld a washer as Ramsey does.

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

P.s. While you've got those shocks off, why don't you get some good ones.