Easterners headed to Yosemite area this summer, help!

86Scotty

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Jul 26, 2011
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Hey guys, I'm starting to plan our summer trip, and as usual, we will be fitting all that we can into 2 weeks, maybe 15-16 days tops. Sounds like we've got plenty of time, except we live just outside Knoxville, Tn. As we have for the last 3-4 summers, we'll be hitting the road hard for Colorado Springs (2 full days drive) first. We have family there, and love the area. So, let's see, I'm going to try to be concise here. Days 1-2 are driving, 3-4 with family in Co. Springs, then on day 5 or so our plan is roughly to head west out of Denver and head to the Canyonlands area for a day or two. We have spent a lot of time in the Teton/Jackson/Yellowstone area on up through Montana to Glacier, and we have also spent a good bit of time in the Southwest/Monument Valley/Mesa Verde/4 Corners/GC south rim area, so we're wanting to kind of just cut straight through and stretch a little further west to Death Valley/Yosemite. We will probably detour through Zion/Bryce because it's so beautiful, but I'm hoping you westerners and world travelers can help me do some planning.
Please throw me some ideas out there considering that we are 2WD at this point, and not opposed to getting off road but not capable of getting too far off of it. Dry camping is fine and great, but we like to hit a motel every 3-4 days for showers/laundry/AC.
Questions I have: Where are the people, so that I can go the other way?? :a1: We have spent most of our trips out West so far hitting the touristy NPs, because we want to see them and expose the kids to them, but I'm hoping to find a little more quiet and solace as I spend more time out there.
What are the best camping areas (prettiest, quietest maybe???) around Yosemite?
We will probably do a clockwise loop from Vegas over to Death Valley up to Yosemite and back across maybe through Salt Lake area and maybe end back up in Co. Springs.
Sorry for the long post, guys, your help is appreciated.
 
Scotty, DV and Yosemite are about as different as two parks can be. You'll never get away from the crowds in Yos unless you hike remotely or stay in the high country (tioga rd). In DV, it's easy to find solitude. You didn't mention if you had 4WD. In DV, that guarantees remote opportunities. There's NO offroading or freestyle camping in Yos. There will be people all around you in the campgrounds. However, along the Tioga road there is White Wolf and another camp area that are nice, and east of Tioga Pass there are some nice camp areas along the Lee Vining Caynon side roads. But, they are not close to the Valley if that is what you want to be near.

For DV, just get a map or book and look for remote unpaved roads. There are too many to write about in the time I have now.....
 
I don't have any specific plans (or even an SMB yet!), but I'll be reading this thread with interest, as I also like "non-campground" places, would like to explore those areas a bit, and will also be 2WD. Glad you posted it!
 
Neither DV nor Yosemite is a place I like to visit in the summer.

DV can be HOT!!! Like 120 on the valley floor. There are place in the park that are cooler - Scotty's Castle, Racetrack, Mesquite Springs, any of the canyons that go up into the mountains, etc. And, it would be easy to spend your entire two week trip in DV and not come close to running out of places to visit.

As mentioned earlier, Yosemite is crowded in the summer. To camp on the valley floor you need reservations and they are probably all booked for the summer already. You should be able to find campspace up on Tioga Road if you arrive early in the day. Outside of the park on the west is busy also. The Sierra's are very popular. There is boondocking off 120 on the east side of the park - but it is a several hour drive to the valley floor from there.

I would try and spend more time at Bryce, Zion, Cedar Breaks and the North Rim. Cooler, more comfortable and magnificent scenery at all of them. Boondocking exists just outside the North Rim. And, it can save you a day (each way) driving across Nevada in the summer.

Mike
 
Jeffrey, I'm 2wd. I know Yos will be crowded, but we want to see it anyway. Thanks for the campground ideas! Not sure if we will be spending time in Death Valley or just driving through, just want to see the area.
 
Thanks Mike. I know it will be hot and crowded at both of those places, but she teaches and kids are on school so we've got to fit it in a summer trip. We really want to see them even if we just spend 1-2 days in the area and then bail due to crowds and/or heat.
Keep the ideas/CGs/etc coming. I'm paying attention!
 
Forgot to mention the heat in DV (Thanks, Mike). Not many visitors there and the heat is intense, but as a phenomenon, it is interesting to experience even if just for a few hours of driving through. It's a dry heat, and the visuals and odors it provides are fascinating (other than your own, that is).
 
One of the problems with summer camping in California is that many campgrounds take reservations and those that are first-come, first-served may fill up early (like in the morning) if they are popular. 4WD gives you options but I realize that you have 2WD.

According to www.weatherbase.com, the average high temperature in Death Valley in July is 115 although it drops to 113 degrees in August. There will be plenty of spaces to camp in the paved Sunset Campground (it is a parking lot) but no shade! So, a drive through is a better idea. Driving down to Badwater and back will add an hour plus time to get out and get your picture taken at the lowest place in North America.

Assuming that you are coming from Las Vegas, I'd leave as early as you can and take Highway 190 through Death Valley to Highway 395. Highway 395 follows the backside of the Sierras all of the way to Tahoe and is beautiful high desert. You'll be at around 7,000' elevation with the Sierras going up to 12,000-13,000' in elevation a few miles to the west.

Las Vegas to Bishop, CA via Death Valley takes about 5 hours not including a detour to Badwater or lunch stops, etc. and there is camping all along Highway 395. You can also boondock off of Highway 395 and there are a lot of dirt roads which you can turn off onto to find a place for the night. However, the further north toward Highway 120 you get, the more time you'll have in Yosemite. For example, another 1.5 hours will get you to the Highway 120 turnoff to Yosemite. If you decide to spend more time on the road that day, turn west on Highway 120 (if it is near time to eat, the Whoa Nellie Deli in the Mobile gas station is great). A couple miles up the road is a turnoff to some County campgrounds along Lee Vining Creek. We've camped there in August and there were plenty of spots. Not a great campground but at least a place to stay for sure. The next day, continue west on Highway 120 over Tioga Pass (9,943' in elevation) and on to the Tuolumne Meadows area. This huge, high meadow is one of our favorite places. Camping along this section of Highway 120 is all first-come, first-served and very popular. The scenery along this section of highway is gorgeous...open meadows, granite, etc. Take your time (it has a 45 mph speed limit also) and enjoy the Yosemite high country. There are only a couple of places to eat along here...at the small burger place next to the Tuolumne Meadows general store (both are in tents!) or at the old stage stop at White Wolf, a mile or so off of the highway.

When you reach Crane Flat, see if there is space at the Crane Flat campground just west of the stop sign. If not, you can turn west on Highway 120 and see if there are camping spots at Hogdon Meadows near the 120 Entrance Station to the Park, 8 miles further up the road. This campground is usually the last to fill up since, although it has regular flush toilets, there isn't anything to do here.

If this campground is also full, I'd suggest figuring out where you are going to spend that night before heading into the Valley. I don't know if there is cell coverage at the Entrance Station but there is a pay phone (there might be a sign with phone numbers but I'd havethem with you). You can call the Yosemite Lodge in the Valley and ask if they have a room (room reservations in Yosemite can be made 1 year plus 1 day in advance and people with reservations start canceling a couple of days before arrival. My next suggestion would be Cedar Lodge (http://www.stayyosemitecedarlodge.com/) which is 8 miles out of the Park on Highway 140. We've stayed here a number of times...clean rooms, etc. Not in-expensive though in the prime summer months! There is also a motel in El Portal a couple miles closer to the Park (Yosemite View) but it is even more expensive. The next closest option is in Mariposa, 24 miles further west. There is camping along the river in only a couple of places. One is on the north side of the river opposite Cedar Lodge but it only has a few spaces which are paved parking spots along the road on that side of the river. There are also three BLM campgrounds further west on the way toward Mariposa:

http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/folsom/m ... errec.html

One of them is walk in only and the only two only have 9 camping spots between them. I don't know what the usage of these campgrounds is during the summer. It can be hot in the summer so maybe there would be spots available. There is also a KOA campground on the highway toward Mariposa although we've never stopped there.

Once you have a place to stay, head toward the Valley. There is a free shuttle all-year in the Valley...park at Camp Curry and take the shuttle to the Visitor Center to get oriented. From there, you can take the shuttle to Yosemite Falls but don't be surprised is the falls is only a trickle this year since the snow pack is very light so far. You'll see Yosemite Falls on the north side of the valley as you drive to Camp Curry. If you have the time, take the shuttle to Happy Isles and hike up the John Muir Trail (paved) at least to the bridge over the Merced River where you can see Vernal Falls. Remember that the Valley can get warm (90 degrees) during the summer. If you have a second day, I'd drive up to Glacier Point where you can see Half Dome and also look straight down to the Valley. I'd also visit the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias...check the Yosemite NP website for information on the free shuttle and parking problems during the summer at the grove.

To head home, I'd backtrack to Crane Flat and then continue west on Highway 120 to Groveland and on to the gold rush town of Chinese Camp and turn north on Highway 49 toward Sonora. The Columbia State Park north of Sonora is interesting...a basically intact gold rush town. Continuing north on Highway 49, there are several highways which cross back over the Sierras such as Highway 4 (a good road to the top of the range but narrow and steep on the backside) or 88 which is good all of the way. Once over the range, you can make your way to I-80.
 
Yvrr, thanks. This is exactly what I'm looking for! I just want to start narrowing down at this point. Your DV info and Yos info above are helping greatly. I've got to get my head in the atlas/google maps here for awhile.
I'm also looking for some advice from Denver over through Canyonlands area down to Zion/Bryce/North Rim.
 
I wouldn't give up yet on getting a site in Yosemite Valley just quite yet. You can make reservations on-line, but do it on the 15th of each month at 0700 hours standard pacific time exactly and use a fast internet connection. Gotta get 'em five months in advance, so it's about right for August window. Check out the rules at http://www.nps.gov/yose. Be prepared to take any site you can fit in - they get taken up within 15 minutes.

We went last September and loved it. Also stayed in Tioga Pass campground which is first-come-first-served, and I'd imagine August is more competitive. Sequoia National Park is another great place to stay (they also make on-line reservations and are much easier to get into).
 
I have several posts about the Yosemite area on my little site you can browse through.

My site


By far my favorite camp in Yosemite is a first come first serve camp called Tamarack Flat It's the most quite during the day. Porcupine and Yosemite Cr are other nice FCFS CG's. The key is getting to them in the morning hours...many people leave out early. None have showers and none are in the valley which can get hot in summer.
Hodgdon will require reservations and you will share with large RV's.

Bridalveil is kind of nice when it's hot in the valley but busy and cramped.

Also don't count out Sonora Pass but make sure to travel Tioga. Some great places to camp on Sonora maybe on the way out.

Dave
 
Hi. I'm new to the forum and have just been browsing for ideas for a van I have that I'm thinking of rebuilding. I haven't done any road trip camping as of yet so I can't help you much in that regard. I have however made a road trip out west each of the last three years and I have covered much of the area your planning so maybe I can be of some help to you.

I'm afraid you may run out of time if you try to cover everything you've listed. The sites could easily be done in two weeks but if you're not planning on leaving Denver until day 5 it's really gonna be tough to get everything you've mentioned in. From Denver to Moab will probably be around 7 hours so most of day 6 will be shot there.

Our itinerary for 2010 took in some amazing sights and was close to what you're looking at from Canyonlands so here is some insight.

2 full days in Moab for Canyonlands-Island district and Arches NP. Day 3 - all day driving from Moab to Jacob Lake Inn in Arizona close to Grand Canyon North Rim. Route was south from Moab on 191 through Blanding. Stops were Canyonlands-Needles district, Newspaper Rock. Then on south to 163, which takes you by Mexican Hat and through Monument Valley. At Kayenta took 160 to 98 and then over to Page and a stop at Glen Canyon Dam. From Glen Canyon took 89 to 89A for the long haul to Jacobs Lake with a stop at Navajo Bridge. This was a full day and we didn't arrive at Jacob's Lake until late. Day 4 - Jacob's Lake to North Rim. Spent most of the day here, then about a 3 hour drive to Bryce Canyon. Day 5- Bryce Canyon all day.

From Bryce we headed north to the Tetons and Yellowstone, but your plans would take you back to I-15 for the trip down through Vegas and Death Valley. As you can see, if you followed this plan you would likely be on day 11 by the time you hit Vegas. Then another day from Vegas through Death Valley to somewhere near Yosemite. If you allow 3 days for the drive back home that only leaves one day in Yosemite which is not nearly enough. So, if your really set on Yosemite, you would probably be better served to go with the initial thought of heading straight through from Denver and spending more of your time there.

As others have said, Yosemite is very crowded and Death Valley is very hot. I've been to many of the western National Parks and Yosemite is by far the most crowded one I've ever been to. Even though I am not into crowds at all, the place is so amazing it was worth it! The heat in Death Valley is so intense it's hard to describe. It's called Death Valley for a reason! Lol. My air conditioning spoiled family had a hard time with the heat but I still wouldn't have missed it.

If your going to Yosemite from Death Valley, you really should consider going through Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. Those trees are amazing!

Well, I've rambled long enough. Hope it was of some use to you.
Happy Travels!

Dave :i2:
 
Mammoth Lakes is a great area too. Not far from Yosemite, and not crowded at all in the summer. Hiking, fishing, mtn bike riding, it's all there in Mammoth & all accessible! Good day trips from there too, like Bodie, Mono Lake & even Yoesmite via Tioga pass. The temps are perfect in the summer!
 
A must stop on the way if you are going in Tioga pass. The gas station at the 395 and the road to Tioga pass is a must stop and eat.

went past a hundred times and on a DS ride we stopped in and OMG I dont pass it.


Ok you can hit kings Canyon and camp out at Big meadows. good hiking and fly fishing.

UJOINT said:
Mammoth Lakes is a great area too. Not far from Yosemite, and not crowded at all in the summer. Hiking, fishing, mtn bike riding, it's all there in Mammoth & all accessible! Good day trips from there too, like Bodie, Mono Lake & even Yoesmite via Tioga pass. The temps are perfect in the summer!
 
Thanks a lot everyone and keep it coming. This is awesome and a great help. I don't have the time to read/research all of this at the moment, but I will in the next few weeks. I'm bidding my summer vacation at work in the next few weeks and am thinking of trying to go early this year, early to mid June instead of July, given where I'm thinking of going.
Anyway, I appreciate the help.
 
From Limon on I-70 you can take US-24 west to CS. That's probably the best way from the interstate (and yet I have such a hard time convincing people that CO-86 through Franktown is better than going through Denver on I-70...) CS is slightly different location, however... when leaving there is really no reason to come up and go through Denver:

US-50 through Gunnison is really so much better than I-70 and you're splitting hairs for time from where I am, so it's got to be better for you. From Montrose to Moab you really can't go wrong- I've done several of the highways through there.

Of course I probably totally just talked you out of coming near us, so just let me know if you want to get together somehow as you come through.
 
Thanks Jage, yes we usually take 24 from Limon over to CS, and almost always drive into a wicked afternoon thunderstorm with the mountains in the background through there. Just beautiful, and seems to happen every time I'm on 24. I just Looked at the map to see where you are, I see your point, maybe we'll have time, you aren't far out of the way.
I like the way you're thinking going US-50 through Gunnison after we leave CS area, that would take us pretty close to Telluride, or Cortez/Mesa Verde, and keep us off 70. I like it. Ever been to Hovenweep? Very cool area just west of Cortez, and virtually void of humanity.
Ok, from there looks like maybe north through Monticello or Montrose to Arches, and then we'll play around in Canyonlands area for a day or two before moving on west.
I'm still looking for ideas in the Canyonlands area, but getting pretty fired up about how the plans are coming together. Thanks much for your advice. sitting here at work is killing me.
Perhaps if I can ever afford a 4x4 van I'll be able to get a little more off the beaten path, but I'm always ready to explore somewhere I've never been, on road or off.
 
Look up Horsethief campground in moab. It's a good spot or you can head down the road past the entrance 1/4 mile-ish and boondock.
 
Well, the trip has begun and we're hot as **** but having a blast. I decided to do my trip backwards and go see my brother and family down in Cajun Country first. Then we headed across Texas and wound up in Sedona Az last night. What a beautiful area! Today we drove over to Hoover Dam and were glad to say goodbye to the Freeway for a while. Tonight we are in Vegas and will head West through Parhump and in to Death Valley tomorrow. High is supposed to be around 115 but it was almost that in Vegas late this afternoon. Hoping to make an early camp over around Bishop late tomorrow afternoon, and be out of the extreme heat for the rest of the trip.
As for the rig, the 5-Star tuned 5.4 is doing great, especially considering how heavy we're loaded. Getting 13-15 mpg driving 70-75. Also, the CCV pop-top is wonderful too. We've only camped in it once on our 4 nights out but will be in it the next 4-5 consecutively I think.

Best sight so far: Pine Flat campground in Sedona and the scenery on Hwy 93 just east of the Hoover Dam in west Az.
Best food so far: honestly, crab legs and shrimp boil with my bro's family on his back porch.
Most enjoyable mod to the van: Scanguage giving me real time water and trans fluid temp. I just love that.
 
This stuff is why i Love you Guys and Gal

Proud to be on the road with you

bw

(going to the Thousand Islands with family for the 4th
then to Caymens, but would rather be in Wilson...)
 

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