Fiberine High Top Interior Finish Options

FeralOG

New Member
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Sep 7, 2020
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Hello everyone!

I've been lurking here for some time and have finally started our build on a '12 E350 EB.

One of the 1st things we did was install a Fiberine 30" Super Camper High Top.

I'll most likely start a build thread but am curious to see how others have finished off the interior of the high top, specifically the reverse flange/van roof mounting section.

I'm also curious if anyone has cut back more of the reverse flange/van roof mounting section without sacrificing structural integrity.

Thanks in advance!

James
 
If you can picture this

bent aluminum strap 2'' wide .125 think ( Home Depot ) cut them to length and bent them in my vice... think of a # 7 top side is like 4'' long leg is like 8''. Evenly placed along double flange. This creates a top plane and a side plane at an angle. I cut ply strips for the top and wider strips for the side. I wrapped it in 4 way stretchy carpet ( speaker carpet) but same could be done with foam and fabric. Would have done that but ran out after doing walls. Not sure these pictures will really show you.


 
Another alternative

At risk of adding ignorance to the conversation, I previously owned a 77 Chevy van with fiberglass high top that I put some time and effort into setting up before I got smart and went E-350. I ripped off the green carpet (honest) from the roof and took the van to a local auto upholstery shop. They applied a material that looked and felt like a rough fleece but they applied it with contact cement and it formed to the curves of the top very nicely. I am in San Diego and it provided reasonable insulation for heat and prevented condensation during winter camping nights. Sorry I don't know know the name of the material but I suspect the shop used it mostly for trunk lining. But for my purposes it was inexpensive and effective and available in a few colors
 
Here's how I did it. I put 3/4" elastomeric foam insulation down first and then Hull Liner (https://www.dltcorporation.com/category_s/343.htm) over that.

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...think of a # 7 top side is like 4'' long leg is like 8''. Evenly placed along double flange. This creates a top plane and a side plane at an angle. I cut ply strips for the top and wider strips for the side.

Thanks for the feedback everyone! This is most likely what I end up doing.

Anyone cut back more of the old roof structure to gain clearance?
 
fiberine top

I will be following your thread closely. I just bought a E-350, extended, 15 passenger van. 2011 . I am thinking of having Fiberine add a top. Why did you go with 30" Do I need that much ? I am 5'9 " Do they make a lower top ?How were they to work with.
350 roamer
 
I will be following your thread closely. I just bought a E-350, extended, 15 passenger van. 2011 . I am thinking of having Fiberine add a top. Why did you go with 30" Do I need that much ? I am 5'9 " Do they make a lower top ?How were they to work with.
350 roamer

they have many sizes of tops. Full Size Van Tops
 
I researched both pretty heavily before making a decision.

Tufport - $7500 installed. I liked it and I liked the guys at Wasatch but the top doesnt have a big reverse flange like the Fiberine. It sits on the drip rails and cannot hold more than 100# on the roof.

Fiberine - $5500 - $8500 depending on options.....Mega bomber. Marine grade fiberglass with 3 inch reverse flange. With reinforcement can hold 300# on the roof. Gonzalo (owner) is a pro.

---

I went with Fiberine. Did not have them cut in windows or max fan etc...just the top with reinforced sides for cabinets and reinforced roof for roof rack. $5500 then had a body shop paint it to match for $500.

Sold my pop top for $5500 so the total swap was +$1500. Best $1500 I have ever spent on my van.
 
Related to this, check your drip rails before installing a top. Many vans have the factory sealant cracking and leaking and rust is present underneath. Unless your 7' tall you can't see it until you get a ladder.
 
Related to this, check your drip rails before installing a top. Many vans have the factory sealant cracking and leaking and rust is present underneath. Unless your 7' tall you can't see it until you get a ladder.

above x 1000

Only use Reverse Flange Roof

Repair anything - rust/flaking paint - on the gutter or outer 6" of roof /windshield that looks even a little bit marginal.

After any repairs or even if OEM paint is in great shape, best practice is to paint from just under the gutter and from windshield seal to over the top of the roof and in about 6" with Raptor Liner or equivalent.

I am helping get a van repaired that has surface rust that has progressed under the fixed top edges. Only way to properly address it is remove the fixed top. It has OEM paint.
 

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