FICM Repair/Replace w/higher voltage FICM? 2005 6.0

[Yovan]

Hi all,

Looks like it's time for a new FICM at least... and maybe not too long for new injectors. But I think I'll start with FICM. Rough cold starts, longer warm up times for any power... and I seem to be running slower and hotter on long steep grades.

Anyway... has anyone gone to a 53 or 58v FICM and noticed an improvement over stock 48v? Having trouble sorting through truth from fiction as to whether this is worth the extra spend?

Thanks!

 

[BroncoHauler-SMB]

Before dropping the money for a new FICM, what kind of voltage are you seeing out of you alternator? If you have voltage supply issues to your FICM, a new FICM won't help.




Herb

 

[JoeH-SMB]

I did the Ultra service on my FICM with Ed at FICMrepair.com. I researched the 53 and 58v output options and performance gains mostly seemed to be hype. I do like the redundancy feature on the bulletproof power supply but it's ungodly expensive without much of a warranty. Not that you would need it as their units are highly regarded but Ed's work is warrantied for life.

 

[ShuttlePilot]

Greetings Yovan, I'll offer up my thoughts but understand I hold no credential in Ford 6.0's. Bear with me as you may have already done these steps. Before spending money I would confirm what your current injector electrical side status is.

1) I would obtain access to a diagnostic monitor like a Scanguage, Forscan, or AutoEnginuity.

2) Confirm both starting batteries are the same brand, age and 12.6-12.7 volts resting. Use multimeter.

3) With ignition on waiting for glow plugs observe voltage drop from glow plug demand. It is common to see voltage drop to 10-11 volts due to demand but if its 8 volts or less replace batteries. Indicated on scan tool.

4) Confirm alternator is supplying mid 14 volts at normal idle and is stable indicated on scan tool.

5) Confirm FICM voltage is 48 volts and rock stable at all rpm and driving conditions. Indicated on scan tool.

If all that checks out your performance issues are probably not your FICM or injectors. At that point I would upgrade the FICM as a reliability improvement for the future but not expect any performance cures. And, move on what the other issues are that are causing the issues your describing.

My only recommendations for FICM reliability improvements (only after confirming steps 1-4 from above are satisfied) are either Ed at FICMrepair.com who offers the lifetime warranty option OR the Bulletproof Diesel power supply with the 6 phase power supply for redundency.

Regarding the 53 or 58 volt options. It is my understanding that the higher voltage FICMs was from the high horsepower builds that were running higher and sustained HEUI oil pressures, think dyno rigs and sled pulling. Then it was believed by regular truck owners as a solution to prevent injector spool valves from sticking (sticktion). Sticking spool valves can not be prevented or cured by increased voltage in my opinion, that is an oil issue in the spool valve. I don't think it's just hype to run the higher voltage but 95% of all 6.0's aren't modified in a way that would need the higher voltage.

- Eric

 

[Yovan]

Thanks everyone,

Great call in checking alternator voltage first, it is relatively new--so I had bypassed that step in my brain but it is a good call.

My scan tool (a Bluetooth OBD2 reader) I don't believe can pull FICM voltage, but I will definitely be checking pre-crank and running voltage straight off of the FICM prior to ordering any replacements.

Appreciate the reminder about FICMrepair.com. That could be a could route and perhaps a mild tune out of it too.

I'll post back after I have chance to pull out the Multimeter and start pulling numbers.

Thanks!

 

[Yovan]

It WAS a good call on testing the alternator first... looks like I'm getting 13.6v max from the alternator, but after a few minutes of idle some kind of draw kicks in and it drops to 12.9v. That without me adding a lot of 'manual' draw like fridge, lights, etc.

Of course... I just had the entire front end off a few weeks ago for an AC compressor that seized and tore up the serpentine belt and bunch of other stuff... I know I likely don't have to remove all of that again for alternator replace, but it sure would have been easier!

 

[BroncoHauler-SMB]

It WAS a good call on testing the alternator first... looks like I'm getting 13.6v max from the alternator, but after a few minutes of idle some kind of draw kicks in and it drops to 12.9v. That without me adding a lot of 'manual' draw like fridge, lights, etc.

Of course... I just had the entire front end off a few weeks ago for an AC compressor that seized and tore up the serpentine belt and bunch of other stuff... I know I likely don't have to remove all of that again for alternator replace, but it sure would have been easier!

While you're at it, check your grounds too. A bad or intermitant ground can cause your voltages to fluctuate.


Herb

 

[ShuttlePilot]

Of course... I just had the entire front end off a few weeks ago for an AC compressor that seized and tore up the serpentine belt and bunch of other stuff... I know I likely don't have to remove all of that again for alternator replace, but it sure would have been easier!

Sounds good. I'm about to do the opposite of you. Over the winter I just replaced my alternator and now I'm going to dig it all out again (and much more) to replace my front crank seal that is pouring oil. Good times.

- Eric

 

[Glenn P.]

Everything is right on the money. I had a low output alternator that caused damage to the FICM and my FICM voltage was well below the 48V is should have. This is where having the CTS2 from Edge Products was invaluable as I could see my alternator and FICM voltages and knew I had a problem. I got a rebuilt lifetime warrantied Ultra FICM from Ed at FICMrepair.com and had the Atlas 40 tune added to it and I must say it it is great. Took a lot of the sluggishness out of acceleration. I also got a new higher output alternator from them as well at the same time and the heavier wiring to support the added current capacity.

Sounds like you have plenty to do this weekend with all this "help"! ;-)

 

[Yovan]

Appreciate everyone's thoughts. I ordered the 180amp alternator and two new Odyssey batteries from FICMrepair (I like to give them the biz). There's a fair amount of debate over whether that alternator will charge above where the Odyssey's like to be, but I'm going for it.

I'll get the weekend off from that as they won't arrive, but I'll check my grounds and drop the batteries and such in the meantime. Once I install the new gear, I'll check my FICM voltage.

I should have just gone with the CTS2... I had decided to go analog with gauges and wired the primary things I keep and eye on, but I now further see the value in the CTS2...

 

[JoeH-SMB]

Appreciate everyone's thoughts. I ordered the 180amp alternator and two new Odyssey batteries from FICMrepair (I like to give them the biz). There's a fair amount of debate over whether that alternator will charge above where the Odyssey's like to be, but I'm going for it.

I'll get the weekend off from that as they won't arrive, but I'll check my grounds and drop the batteries and such in the meantime. Once I install the new gear, I'll check my FICM voltage.

I should have just gone with the CTS2... I had decided to go analog with gauges and wired the primary things I keep and eye on, but I now further see the value in the CTS2...

Scanguage II is a cheaper and smaller option than the CTS2. Neither one has an EGT probe so have to do it analog with the Scanguage or it's another $130 for the probe with the CTS2.

 

[Yovan]

An update for the archives and on the small chance someone is following for their own situation. The cooler heads on this forum look to be right again: I didn't have a FICM problem at all.

Looks like my alternator crapped out and was just barely charging starting batteries enough to fire the 6.0 over, but lead to FICM symptoms (really rough cold start, really gutless cold performance). One new higher output alternator and 2 new Odyssey batteries later, the batteries, alternator, starter and FICM are in range with voltage. No more rough cold starts. FICM appears to be OK after that alternator abuse.

Now I'm off to chase lower power and high EGT's with electrical ruled out. Noticed I am generating less that 10psi boost at full throttle, 5 or less at cruise. Checked the hose on the intake and it's nipple, will more carefully check the actual turbo hoses (I thought I had already). I'm not getting any codes and while don't 100% trust my boost gauge, I also don't hear any turbo whine or spooling at all, nor do I feel it. Also, not noticing any exhaust color issues (excessive smoke, etc).

So... I'll check the hoses and then yank the turbo I guess and see if it is locked up... Onward!