Your “ledger is still ‘red’ from the ideas and knowledge”, well said!

I have been on the forum since 2016 and I do my best to read every post. It’s amazing the wealth of information that can be gleaned by doing so.

On another note, I know a Sprinter isn’t the platform of choice here, but various 4WD’s I have had in the past include Ford’s, Land Rovers, a Chevy and an International Harvester and I can say that for this time in our lives the Sprinter has turned out to be a great vehicle for us. It takes us where we want to go, it does so in comfort, it’s been dependable, and my wife is comfortable driving it anywhere. So much of the great information found here is all about using our vans, and of course helping us spend our money on our vans, and I couldn’t agree more with you regarding finding “inspiration from the contributions” found here.
 
Aluminess Swing Arm Bearing Failure

A new Aluminess rear bumper with two (square tube) bumper-mounted swing arms was installed in 2016. Over the course of the past couple of years I noticed that the passenger-side swing arm with the box on it was getting stiff, making it more difficult to swing open. I popped the cap off the top of the bearing assembly, sprayed in some lube, and that seemed to help the situation. It didn’t swing as easily as when new, but it worked ok so I didn’t give it much thought.

After a couple of iterations of spraying lube in the bearing assembly it was obvious that a repair of some sort would soon be in order. I did some research and ordered new bearings and caps from Aluminess, then put them on the shelf knowing that a future repair would soon be upon me. In other words, I procrastinated, thus making the inevitable repair more difficult.

Member barrel47 started a post on this topic back in July and member Charliesmom documented his repair there in September. See here for the post: https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/forums/f19/aluminess-swing-arm-bearing-replacement-32738-3.html

I recently completed the repair and wanted to document it here. From what I could see, the root cause of the failure is the design of the cap that sits on top of the bearing assembly. The original design had no means of sealing to prevent water intrusion, thus water found its way into the assembly and as we all know, where water goes rust soon follows…. Aluminess has since modified the design, and there is now an O-ring on the cap to prevent water entry. See the picture below showing the original cap on the left and the modified cap on the right.

9844-albums1448-picture49465.jpg


The cap has a small set screw on the side, once that is removed the cap pops off revealing a nut and washer below.

9844-albums1448-picture49464.jpg


Remove the nut and washer and lift the assembly off to replace the bearing. Sounds simple enough, right? Not so, not after rust has established itself in the assembly. Here is what the top of the bearing race looked like with the nut and washer removed:

9844-albums1448-picture49463.jpg


Note that I had removed the box and all of its contents on the passenger’s side and the spare tire on the driver’s side, thus there was no load on the swing arms except for the arm itself. I tried raising the passenger side arm with a 4x4 block on top of a bottle jack and that did nothing except raise the back of the van, then I resorted to the two pullers I had. I broke one and bent the other.

9844-albums1448-picture49462.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49461.jpg


About this time, I knew that this “simple” repair wouldn’t be so simple. I started working my way down from the top, using an air chisel to cut out the upper bearing on the passenger side and a cut off wheel to remove the lower bearings on both sides. Fortunately, the driver’s side upper bearing wasn’t as bad and it came out relatively easily.

9844-albums1448-picture49460.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49459.jpg


I did what I could to clean up both spindles, recognizing that their use case is a slow speed 90 degree rotation on an infrequent basis.

9844-albums1448-picture49458.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49457.jpg


Reassembly was straight forward following the Aluminess-supplied instructions.

9844-albums1448-picture49358.jpg


I did add one step prior to reassembly. I drilled and tapped a grease zerk on each arm assembly and then filled the cavity with waterproof grease. This idea came from member Sloya, who provided helpful advice as I worked my way through this repair. Thanks Sam!

9844-albums1448-picture49456.jpg


Note in the picture above that I also added a wrap of electrical tape around the joint where the cap sits on the barrel of the tube that contains the spindle and bearings. Call it belt and suspenders, but it seemed like the appropriate thing to do at the time.

This was definitely NOT one of Aluminess’ best designs. It appears that this has been addressed via the addition of the O-ring to the cap (I do not know when after 2016 this design change occurred), but I wonder how many customers had to (or still will have to in the future) go through this repair. As this now is a known issue, I would have felt better had Aluminess supplied the repair parts free of cost, but that was not the case.

If you have similar swing arms, the one piece of advice I would offer would be to pull the caps off and see if there is an O-ring present. If not, replace the caps with ones that have the O-ring, hopefully saving yourself the trouble of making this repair at some point in the future.
 
Nice post. I have done this exact same thing myself including using a grinder to get the old rusted bearings off. As I recall, the bearing size was a common trailer axle bearing that I bought at the local big box store. I didn’t know about the o ring at that time but I just silicone caulked the outside of the cap seam. It had been at least 5 years now and the boxes still swing smoothly. As I recall I thought there could be some water splashing up from the bottom which isn’t sealed on mine but the biggest problem are those caps. I will make sure to watch my caulking around those cap seams closely from now on and I would do that even with the o ring. That was a much bigger job than I anticipated. Thanks for posting this.
 
I feel your pain…
My Aluminess rear bumper and swivel arms were installed in 2020. My caps had the O rings. Unfortunately, there were no set screws in the caps! One side (driver) had a considerable amount of rust on the nut and washer on the spindle. I’m with you regarding the difficulty removing the swing arms off the spindles. As I mentioned in my post, I used a lot of penetrating oil, lithium grease, a rubber mallet and a few choice words to finally manhandle the swing arms off the spindles. Both lower bearings remained on the spindle and were the most difficult to remove. I had to cut the bearing cages and remove the bearings. Then, I used a pipe wrench and more penetrating oil to finally get the races off the spindles. I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning the spindle of rust and corrosion. I wish I had thought about putting a grease zerk on my tubes. If and when I have to replace the bearings again, I will definitely install the grease fittings. After I finish this post, I’m going out to put “suspenders” on the caps.
 
B5 vs. B20 Diesel Fuel

The number represents the percentage of biodiesel in the blend. B20 diesel is a blend of 20% biodiesel and 80% petroleum diesel. B5 diesel doesn’t need to be labeled at the pump, any percentage above 5% needs a specific label on the pump identifying the percentage.

Under the “Fuel grade” heading in my 2016 Operator’s Manual is found the following:

“! Do not use the following: …Bio-diesel…” Beyond that the manual is silent regarding B20 diesel fuel.

This sticker is found on the dash:
9844-albums1448-picture49496.jpg


And this sticker is found at the fill nozzle:
9844-albums1448-picture49495.jpg


Looking back, the van has been in 13 states so far this year, ranging up and down the country from CA to the west, IL to the east, NM to the south and WY to the north. Both here in CA and in all the other states one thing has been consistent, B5 diesel has been getting harder to find as B20 diesel is becoming much more prevalent at the pump. I’ll run B20 if I have to, but I have always kept it to a minimum (and it’s always bothered me a bit when I do so). So far, it’s been minimal, with maybe a half-a-dozen tanks over the course of 100k miles on the van, but lately it’s been getting harder to do so as more-and-more stations make the switch to B20.

The lack of proper fuel is worrisome, thus I started to look into this topic further. It turns out that in 2017 MB recognized the issue and since then they have changed the text in the Operator’s Manual to read:
9844-albums1448-picture49494.jpg


Interesting to note is that from what I have been able to see, MB didn’t change the fill nozzle sticker when they changed the Operator’s Manual text in 2017, choosing to retain the “Max. B5” sticker instead. This has since changed (I’m not sure in what year, please reply with input if you have knowledge on this), with this fill nozzle sticker found on a 2023 van:
9844-albums1448-picture49493.jpg


For my 2016 van the factory maintenance intervals are 1 year or 20k miles (whichever comes first) for both oil change and fuel filter. I’ve always thought that 20k is excessive for an oil change interval, but our annual mileage has been about 12k so I change the oil on an annual basis and so far, have felt good about that. I may send an oil sample off for analysis when the next change comes up, still thinking about that.

Future use of more and more B20 fuel may change my perspective on oil and fuel filter change intervals, TBD. One knock on higher percentage blends of biodiesel is that it tends to clog fuel filters sooner, especially in cold temperatures, thus that’s a consideration to be aware of. A mechanic I spoke with in Chicago this past year (where I had a lot of trouble finding B5) was emphatic about the importance of regular and timely fuel filter changes at a maximum interval of 10k miles.
 
I live in Wisconsin (no biodiesel mandate) but am only 60 miles from Minnesota which is a mandatory B20 state from at least April to October. I always remember that the Freightliner Sorinter dealer in our Wisconsin town told me that they sent a sample of the diesel fuel from the next door gas station in for a test. The fuel had no label which should mean that it was B5 but it tested close to B20. I am not sure that you can even trust the labels on the pumps that much. They sure aren’t stopping the fuel trucks at the state lines and the farmers have good lobbyists.

I have been changing fuel filters every 20,000 miles but probably should switch to 10,000 miles. As I recall the owners manual states changing it at 20,000 miles initially and then every 40,000 miles.
 
Catalytic Converter Theft Protection

Stories about catalytic converter theft don’t seem to be as prevalent in the news these days. I’m not sure if that’s because the problem has become less frequent or because the story ran its cycle and is now considered “old news”.

My van has a 2” lift and sits on 33’s, thus access underneath is relatively easy, with plenty of room to roll around under the van on the creeper when required. This is a great feature for maintenance, not so great when considering security.

The Sprinter’s Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) is located immediately upstream of the Catalytic Converter (Cat). When a thief steals the Cat on a Sprinter, he/she doesn’t know the difference, thus both are typically taken. Both are expensive and both can have long delivery lead times. Besides being out of service for the time it takes to obtain the parts and make the repairs, I have heard of $10k being the bill to replace both and to repair other associated damage when this happens.

Theft of the Cat has been an issue on my mind for several years, especially when parking at trailheads and leaving the van, something we often do. Recently my neighbor scared off thieves who were in the process of cutting off the Cat from a van parked on the street one door down from my house on a nice quiet residential street, this prompted me to action.

Researching various protection schemes and devices, I finally found this one to my liking. I know that a determined thief can cut it away, but not without spending a lot of time and making a lot of noise, both things they don’t want.

https://www.sprinterpitstop.com/skid_plates_hields/catalytic-protection-shield-sprinter-van

Sold by Sprinter Pitstop located in San Diego CA, they prefer to do the installation themselves. I’ll typically use any excuse to drive down the coast to San Diego and the area around it, but in this case, I simply didn’t have the time so I ordered the shield and had it shipped to me.

Installation was time-consuming but fairly straightforward. I had to go through several iterations of fitting the shield into place before identifying and using a center punch to mark the final mounting locations. The shield isn’t heavy, but working on your back and by yourself are constraints that add time, constraints we all know well enough. This is one of those jobs that can be done in a quarter of the time after doing it once, thus the term “the learning curve” applies.

The shield attaches in six locations via tabs that are bolted to the underside of the van. Five of the mounting points were via 3/8-16 rivnuts, the sixth was attached utilizing an existing bolt. If you are interested in installing this shield, I think the best way for me to illustrate the steps is to show pictures of each mounting point. Besides, who here doesn’t like pictures?

Here are pictures of the shield, both top and bottom. Nice job of fabrication!
9844-albums1448-picture49517.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49516.jpg


First I had to determine which attachment point would control the layout. This took a bit of moving the shield around to determine interference points, but I finally identified the Passenger Center mounting tab as being the one I had to establish first. Here it is looking straight on, the raised portion at the center of the bracket is where the rivnut needed to be installed in order to ensure that it would seat properly.
9844-albums1448-picture49515.jpg


Once the location was established, I had to identify interferences, in my case there were two. First was this rear driveline support bracket:
9844-albums1448-picture49514.jpg


Next was this welded pin that was utilized to support an electrical connector:
9844-albums1448-picture49513.jpg


The other issue I identified at this time was that the two front mounting tabs did not make contact with the mounting points when the back four tabs were mounted. This was easily resolved by measuring the gaps and stacking 3/8” washers for spacers. Three washers were required on the Drivers Front tab, six were required on the Passengers Front tab. FYI, I glued the washers together prior to installation, this made the process of installing them in the limited space available much easier.
9844-albums1448-picture49512.jpg


As I said above, there are six mounting points. Here I’ll show each location with a description of any pertinent points.

Mounting Location 1, Drivers Side rear.
This location utilized the driveline bracket bolt shown above. There was a 1” spacer present, in order to install the mounting tab here I had to make a new spacer that was 1/8” shorter.
9844-albums1448-picture49511.jpg


Also, in order to get the front-to-back alignment correct I had to elongate the hole in the mounting tab, easily done with a rat tail file.
9844-albums1448-picture49510.jpg


Here is the final installed picture, note the mounting tab is located above the shortened spacer.
9844-albums1448-picture49509.jpg


Mounting Location 2, Drivers Side center. There were no issues with this location.
9844-albums1448-picture49508.jpg


Mounting Location 3, Drivers Side front.
This is the location where the welded pin was located. I cut away the pin with a Dremel cut-off wheel, then cleaned up the area with a Dremel wire wheel before drilling the 9/16” hole to receive the rivnut. Note that in all cases I painted the newly-exposed edges of the steel before inserting the rivnuts. Also, this is the location where I inserted the stack of 3 washers as spacers above the mounting tab.
9844-albums1448-picture49507.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49506.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49505.jpg


Mounting location 4, Passengers Side front.
This is the location where I inserted a stack of 6 washers above the mounting tab.
9844-albums1448-picture49504.jpg


Mounting Location 5, Passengers Side center.
This is the location I described above as my control point. I had to bend the mounting tab up about 1/4” in order to align it with the slope of the mounting point, easily done.
9844-albums1448-picture49503.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49502.jpg


Mounting Location 6, Passengers Side rear. There were no issues with this location.
9844-albums1448-picture49501.jpg


All-in-all, I believe this resulted in a very clean installation that will serve its intended purpose well. Here is what the finished installation looks like, the first picture from the front and the other from the rear.
9844-albums1448-picture49500.jpg

9844-albums1448-picture49499.jpg
 
Thanks Tim for the mention!

My bumper system had caps with an O-Ring but didn't help much. Your write up was well documented as usual with illustrations.

Sam
 
Fitz,
I was adding my comments to this and it logged me and lost it...

My 2014 Sprinter was my first experience with this issue, my 2016 was before the added stickers. Both Sprinters have the commercial filler with no restrictions that came later. This was do to folks putting the wrong fuel in the tank. I'll use B20 if I have no other choice, but I'll fill-up as soon as possible with #2 diesel. This was advised by MBUSA in a phone conversation.

As for the filters, I change oil every 10K miles and fuel every 20K. This just makes common sense to me.

Sam
 
2024 Year-in-Review

Four years retired. When you get the chance, do it and don't look back!

In the past I have listed displayed odometer readings, this year I will correct for tire size, thus the difference if you happen look back.

103,620 - 92,009 = 11,611 miles and 52 nights spent in the van (vs. 14,145 and 84 nights in 2023).

103,620 miles / 8.33 years =12,440 miles/year.

We made another family trip to Pismo Beach this year between Thanksgiving and Christmas. Two grandparents, four daughters, four sons-in-law, five grandsons and three granddaughters. Interesting logistics, but the on-the-beach campfire is always worth it.

Wishing everyone a safe and happy 2025!

The view from on top of the van:
9844-albums1008-picture49683.jpg


And a view of all of our vehicles from the top of the sand dune:
9844-albums1008-picture49684.jpg
 
Last edited:
I learn something new every day, thank you, Fitz. I have a block heater on my van, but that in line coolant heater is another great alternative. Much better than lighting a fire under your van.
 
I always had in the back of my mind that my Mr. Buddy heater under the oil pan would be better than nothing in a time of need....

Interesting you say that. I actually routed the exhaust from our Espar into the area between the oil pan and bell housing. Figured why waste the heat and the hot exhaust will rise into the engine compartment and out the wheel arches / hood slot, much higher than the rockers. Also, if it snowed a lot over night then the heater exhaust would not get covered if it exited below the pinch seam. I curved the exhaust backwards at the end so it does not pick up road spray.
 
Interesting you say that. I actually routed the exhaust from our Espar into the area between the oil pan and bell housing. Figured why waste the heat and the hot exhaust will rise into the engine compartment and out the wheel arches / hood slot, much higher than the rockers. Also, if it snowed a lot over night then the heater exhaust would not get covered if it exited below the pinch seam. I curved the exhaust backwards at the end so it does not pick up road spray.

Brilliant Ray!
 
When Married to a Geologist...

On our way back from a recent AZ trip my Geologist wife informed me that we were going to load the van up with "a few" landscaping rocks. Much better/safer is to use the small utility trailer, but I wasn't given advance notice and I know when not to say no...

Not shown is the bulkhead I built out of luggage and a cooler in an attempt to provide some protection from "rolling rocks" in the event of a high speed stop. But then thinking about it, there isn't much high speed stopping in these heavy vans, and if there is, really bad things are going to happen.

At any rate, here is what the floor of the van looked like on the ride back home. We all know I'm not the first to do something like this!

9844-albums1008-picture49816.jpg


PS:

We also hit the odometer 100k milestone on this trip. Corrected for tire size the actual mileage is 104,634, but it's still fun to see the round numbers displayed on the dash. Happy with the van purchase at 34 miles nine years ago and still happy with it today!

9844-albums1008-picture49815.jpg
 
Nice load. My van has often been used to carry and haul cargo in a trailer including pavers and gravel in bags, but never rocks like that. I learned just to say “yes dear”. :cool:

Congrats on the milestone.
 

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