Ford E-series spare tire carrier removal.

dbhost

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Joined
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Location
League City, Texas
In my prior thread I had asked about tanks. I got the tanks and am now working on clearing the space for the tanks. To do this I need to remove the spare tire crane and its associated cradle.

I see several others here have done it, I just want to verify the method of removal without damaging the vehicle frame.

Point #1. My van has a class IV receiver hitch so the frame is stiffened at the back end via this.
Point #2. The cradle for the tanks has to be stepped as they are 2 different size tanks, a 20 and a 25 gallon, and they are not the same height. I will add a stiffener where I can.
Point #3. After seeing what Chrome Valdez went through with his rear bumper / spare tire carrier / cargo box blowing out the rear bumper mounts. I will have a welding shop / fabricator create a beefed up bracing for this area as I do want a swing out tire carrier and cargo box for the back of my van...

I am looking at the rivets that appear to attach it to the frame. It looks like it will take some careful, but aggressive application of an angle grinder to cut the heads of the rivets out, and then simply drive them the rest of the way out, and likely have to cut the cradle to get enough clearance to remove it...

Is that the only way to do that?
 
I want to hear how it is done as well. although I have all of them, none of these sound appealing while lying on my back.
  • Plasma Cutter
  • Oxy-Accel cutting torch
  • Pneumatic hammer chisel
  • cutoff wheel
  • cutoff grinder

be very careful with a 120VAC power (with thin) cutoff wheel. They can explode (ask me how I know; 15 stitches later :eek::eek:) and so make sure to put back on the guard.
 
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From multiple experiences doing this:

SawZAll w the highest quality / highest tooth (TPI) count metal blades
Overalls
Safety Glasses
Mask and skin protection from hot chips
Gloves

Cut mount flush with edge of frame
Clean up edges with a grinder
Treat/paint raw metal cuts
 
some options

Undervan Storage Box continued:

Before I cut out the tire carrier I have to remove the emission canister. This is also called the charcoal canister or vapor canister. The canister is bolted to the inside of the drivers side frame rail next to the tire carrier. In this picture you can see the purge valve mounted on the top of the canister.
100815-004-mj.jpg


I made a mistake in that I removed the canister from it's badly rusted carrier first.
100815-006-mj.jpg


Getting the carrier apart was a real pain. I should have removed the carrier from the van first. In this picture you can see the two bolts on the outside of the frame rail that are holding the carrier in place. Just remove the two nuts and the carrier comes right out.
100815-057-mj.jpg


Here's the canister after removal.
100815-012-mj.jpg


This "V" groove is where the purge valve is attached. The canister must be positioned so the "V" is at the top.
100815-014-mj.jpg


Purge valve.
100815-009-mj.jpg


There is another connection besides the purge valve.
100815-015-mj.jpg


With the canister out of the way I can get to removing the tire carrier. My main tool for this is going to be a sawzall. Since I'll be laying on my back and cutting above my head I need to support the carrier first. Use a wood beam to support a couple of jack stands.
Hopefully his will keep the tire carrier from falling on me.
100815-023-mj.jpg


100815-024-mj.jpg


Cutting the carrier out from under the van has been without a doubt the absolutely worst job I've had to do on the van so far. It's a uncomfortable position using a power tool in a confined space while cutting directly above my head. I'm wearing hearing protection and goggles but it's still very loud and debris is hitting you in the face. Just nasty. I was in such a hurry to get it done I wasn't as careful as I normally am and almost didn't even stop to take pictures!
100815-025-mj.jpg


100815-026-mj.jpg


I said almost didn't take pictures. Couldn't help myself.

Because of my haste some of these cuts are ragged.
100815-029-mj.jpg


100815-030-mj.jpg


100815-033-mj.jpg


I was also hard on the sawzall blades. I straightened these out later. They will be reused
100815-059-mj.jpg


Success.
100815-036-mj.jpg


After removing the tire carrier I went back and cleaned up all the cuts.
100815-067-mj.jpg


I tried with mixed success to remove the parts of the tire carrier still riveted to the frame rails. If I couldn't get them all the way out I did reduced them in size.
100815-066-mj.jpg


The sawzall wasn't the only tool I needed for this job.
100815-062-mj.jpg


For curiosities sake I weighted the tire carrier after removal. 29 lbs.
100815-038-j.jpg


continued -



Thanks for the link WVvan!

I never had a problem with removing it from any of my old vans but they all had a hitch AND a steel bumper installed at the time. I will be grinding off the rivet heads and removing the cross member intact. I need to relocate my “Evaporative Emissions Canister” like you did. I haven’t made up my mind yet on how to do it cleanly but when I do I’ll post the pics. I may also “Box” parts of the frame rails depending on what a couple of local 4x4 fab shops have to say.
:b5:



If you want to get them out, use an air hammer, it was the only thing that worked for me.
I used a chisel end to knock the heads off the rivets, then a punch end to knock them through. There were a few stubborn ones, those I drilled out most of the way, then punched through with the air hammer.
 
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Any photos coming ?? Thanks -

If you are reerring to me, not yet. Van is still in the shop getting other things done like the fuel pump / dip tube installed for the Velit heater. I was thoroughly disinterested in dropping the gas tank myself in my driveway.
 
Thanks - understand - Enjoy seeing "tru artists" at work !

Don't look at me for artist then. I am more or a hack.

In all seriousness though, yeah I am trying to do this as "correctly" as possible.

I will likely end up under the van with my angle grinder and a pack of Harbor Freight abrasive cutoff wheels. I am going to make my best efforts to not damage the actual frame.

Went by the shop on Friday, it's a small shop with no "office staff" just a father, son and 3 or so shop helpers, and they are always elbows deep into a job so calling just won't work. Well looks like they took Good Friday off. No worries, just want to make sure they are not waiting on me for anything...

I am at a bit of a crossroads with the build that involves the tanks and spare tire carrier. I have nothing to replace the spare tire carrier with yet, other than one of those door mounts. My current tire size is 245/70R16 (basically a 30x9.5 but in metric). No real problems with the door mount, BUT...

When I go with the 4wd conversion, I will be going with a 33x12.50/17, I would DEFINATELY need to beef up the door and door carrier, and it may end up interfering with the operation of the door. My BEST option of course would be a custom bumper with a swing away spare tire carrier like a WeldTec or Aluminess... Not in the budget this year, or likely next...

Chances are I am going to just go ahead and do the door mount spare tire carrier, add some reinforcing plates behind the door to keep it from distorting the door or worse, tearing out sheet metal. I can always patch the door if I end up with a better bumper system, or, thankfully there is no shortage of these vans in the salvage yards, just replace the door in worst case scenario...

Of course conversely. I ALWAYS carry a plug kit and compressor onboard, and for long travel I will have my hitch haul / box on the van. I could just bypass the spare for now, haul it in the hitch haul for out of towners...
 
UPDATE.

I have farmed it out. I believe I mentioned I was unwilling to drop the gas tank in my driveway, well... The mechanic I use has the tank out, is going the fuel pump (factory one started screaming) and putting the dip tube for the heater in.

We went back over and sketched the cut lines and he fished out the recip saw as I was leaving. Started on the exhaust first (Muffler is in need of replacement, going with a Turbo style muffler, shorter body, with a side exhaust in front of hte rear wheel to get the exhaust out from behind the axle. I am going to suck up most of that space... . Class IV reciever hitch is being added and will, or at least should bring the torsional rigidity back to somewhere near original.

Once he is done, I climb under the van with the water tanks and measure / mark where the mounts upper, and lower need to go.

I have room in there, not much to spare, but I CAN fit 25 gallon freshwater, and 20 gallon gray water back there... Plumbing is going to be, uh.... creative. Good thing Pex is kind of flexible---ish.
 
How the heck did I miss this, and how am I still breathing from laughing so hard?

Holy smokes that is some awesome sarcasm at play there!

Glad you enjoyed it. I had forgotten that I typed that until Ray reminded me recently.

:d3:
 
So long story short, while the camper has been in the shop for a good long time waiting on various parts, the carrier is out, the class IV hitch is in and it is solid as a rock. I am planning on adding an additional cross member between the water tanks once I get them in place so I know where to put the cross member exactly, and another reinforcing member just inside of the rear bumper.

I am learning slowly but surely to weld, and am planning on doing a pair of MOVE off road bumpers, rear to include a swing out cargo box and swing away spare tire carrier. The cargo box is to carry the hot water heater, stand, and recovery gear. I am giving serious consideration to getting a mountable ensuite for the van as well...
 
Camper is in my hands now. Need to get some angle iron for the tank brackets... And time to learn a skill I should have learned almost 40 years ago...
 
I'm hanging a tank soon as well, hopefully this weekend although I'm not sure I have enough angle on hand.

I am 100% certain I don't as I have a grand total of zero angle iron at the ready unless you want to count recycling a roller bed frame, that is tempting to do...

My idea is to build a base cradle which will take the width of the wider tank, a cross bar connector to divide the tanks, and then a rear running brace to secure the narrower tank.

I measured the tanks so they would fit in the space and provide ample storage, I kind of forgot they need to be mounted together when I bought them...

But when it is done, 25 gallons fresh, 20 gallons gray, and I likely massively oversized my gray tank. Easilly could have used a 16 gallon. There is no way I am not using 9 of that 25 just lost on the ground by failed capture in my ensuite, or cooking...
 

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