Ford Transit 2020 350 HR CARGO AWD (High Roof – Extended)

Internet Access Update - It includes StarLink

I installed Insty-connect on my van over a year ago. It has worked well and brings pretty good coverage when traveling, so for cellular it has been great. Of course, there are those times when you just can’t get coverage, so I have been looking into satellite coverage or Starlink. The big choice will be the new mini or standard Gen3.

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So that brings us to the next decision, how to integrate the two. So far, the Insty-Connect router has been OK, but certainly not top tier. And if I really wany to have multiple capabilities for the internet, it would be nice to have something that could switch over automatically if needed. So that got me looking into a newer router. In my old van I used a PepLink SoHo router, I hooked up an external antenna for Wi-Fi, GPS, and cellular from my USB modem. This worked well, I’m sure I never got the most out of the router.

Peplink makes a few mobile routers, and most are now updated with the 5G X62 chipset. I decided to look at the new B One, this is a Soho replacement. It does not have any built-in modem, so it only has Wi-Fi antennas. While not necessarily made for the road, my old SoHo always worked well. It does have 2xWAN and USB port for something like my Insty-connect. While they do have a B One with built in 5G (X62 chipset), this one should offer the capabilities to integrate the Starlink and Cellular options. My first thought was to purchase the new Peplink B One router and see if it works with replacing my existing router.

As I investigated that update some more, I found that Insty-connect had moved to a new antenna, the Insty Squared, that contains a modem that has the (X62cchipset). One of the big selling points to the Insty-connect is the router is in the antenna. This keeps the antenna wires short for better performance. The new unit is not connected via USB, it uses ethernet and is powered by a POE adapter. More importantly, the modem can be controlled by itself, and not tied through any router software.

Cellular Modem Specs:
  • Cellular Modem: Single 5G
  • Modem Module or Chipset: Qualcomm Snapdragon X62 (Quectel RM520N)
  • Supported Networks and Bands: Verizon, AT&T, T-Mobile
  • 5G Bands: n1, n2, n3, n5, n7, n8, n12, n13, n14, n18, n20, n25, n26, n28, n29, n30, n38, n40, n41, n48, n66, n70, n71, n75, n76, n77, n78, n79
  • LTE Bands: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 12(17), 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 26, 28, 29, 30, 32, 34, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 46, 48, 66, 71
  • 3G: UMTS/WCDMA B1, B2, B4, B5, B8, B19
  • Carrier Certification: Not Specified
  • MIMO Support: 4x4 MIMO
  • 5G Cellular Performance:
  • Max Theoretical 5G Performance: Not Specified
  • 5G Carrier Aggregation: 2x download and upload - low and mid-band can be combined
  • LTE Performance:
  • LTE Performance Category: Cat-19 Download / Cat-18 Upload (Max Theoretical Speed: 1.6 Gps down/ 200Mbps up)
  • LTE Carrier Aggregation: Cat-19: 4x Download, 3x Upload
  • Cellular Antennas/Ports: 4x4 MIMO
  • SIM Slots: 2 Nano
  • Power Source: 12V DC
  • Outdoor Rated: Indoor Router / Outdoor Modem & Antenna system
  • Special Features: Special User Interface, Custom Insty VPN Features, Band Scanning, Locking, Multi-WAN, Starlink Integration, Speedify Integration, available in Black or Grey.

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Adding a new Insty-connect would be about as much as purchasing a Peplink router with built-in modem. The big difference is that I would need to purchase an antenna also. With the Insty-connect, that includes the antenna.

So now while internally debating this decision, I find that Insty-connect comes out with their second-generation router. While Starlink was usable with their old router, it wasn’t seamless. There wasn’t a good failover mode from Cellular to Starlink or Starlink to Cellular. This new router was designed with just this in mind. Now for the kicker, the introductory offer of a new router with the new antenna modem would cost as much as what just the new antenna was going to cost. So, I thought I might as well try out their new router also.


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Router Specs:

  • Wi-Fi Router:
  • Wi-Fi Standard: Wi-Fi 6
  • Wi-Fi Antennas/Ports: 4x4 MIMO
  • Wi-Fi as WAN: Yes
  • Guest Wi-Fi Network: Yes
  • Default Control Panel Address:
  • Address: http://my.insty or 10.1.1.1
  • USB Tethering Support: No
  • Ethernet Ports: 2x Ethernet WAN, 3x Ethernet LAN
  • Router Throughput: Not Specified
The first step was to install the new antenna and router. This Should be easy; I need to remove the SIM card from my existing router and move to the new router. The cable needs to be changed from the existing USB connection over to an RJ45 (POE) connector. Of course, I need to mount the new router in the van and change the power to a barrel connect, versus the existing 4 pin connector. Insty Connect has pretty good instructions on doing this. You of course must connect to the Wi-Fi and configure the router. I set it all up with a new password and change the SSID for Wi-Fi to what my existing router was, same password for that log in also. At least I won’t have to change any device connections.

Now I must mount the router, while not hard I don’t really like the mounting system for the new router. It is under the router, so it is just a little more difficult and not as secure in IMHO. My next nit on the router is that the antennas are not removable.

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Of course, the new thing is the new modem connection is through POE (Power Over Ethernet) instead of the previous USB cable. This means I will need to swap out the USB cable for the Ethernet cable provided. Luckily it is not difficult to change the cable with the existing DIYvan solar Entry Puck I used for cable access . After this It was time to test and get the cellular connection working. For better or worse my van is connected 24/7 if cellular is available. I must connect my MokerLink 8 Port Gigabit Industrial DIN-Rail Ethernet Switch to the router. I will then need to verify the IP addresses for various devices so that I can make sure my software will still see everything correctly.

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Installation went as expected, new router and antenna is installed, I located all the devices and made the appropriate changes for the software. I am back up and running, now just waiting for the Starlink to show up.

A while back, I embedded a web browser on my RV status rearview mirror display. I am using it for a remote connection to my Victron Cerbo. I decided to add another page to my router’s dashboard. This allows me status of my connection on the go. This connection also works on your phone.


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Now back to the decision of what Starlink to go with. Really the big point of contention is the price point between the Mini vs Standard Gen3. If you get the Standard before Oct 6 it is reduced to$299.00 from normal $499.00 cost. The Mini is going for $599.00. It became a moot point as I was not ready to pull the trigger to get the cheaper cost of the standard. Without that, the lower power usage and smaller size of the Mini becomes the targeted choice. At one point connection packages favored the Mini but now the Roam package is available for both.

I expect that I will need to make some changes to my 80/20 roof rack to accommodate the mini mount. This is mainly because I just don’t want to use magnet mounts. By adding a couple 80/20 bars I will be able to use the Starlink Mini - Roof Mount Kit from Striker Fabrication. I need to add an additional cable entry mount from DIYvan.com. The Mini is not POE, so it has a separate power cable. While the Mini can run on 12 volts it takes a wide-ranging power input of 12 to 48 volts. I plan on installing 12 to 24 converter to power Starlink. Of course, here is another case waiting paid off, as the Mini price dropped to $449.00 for cyber black Friday sale.

Of course, the big reason for this change was to add Starlink, the mini arrived late on a Friday and as luck would have it was raining on Saturday. Anyhow I decided to mockup the changes to the roof rack in the garage, this would also allow me to check for clearance on where the roof access would go. As noted earlier I am using the Starlink Mini - Roof Mount Kit from Striker Fabrication

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Here is a picture of the modifications I made to hold the Mini in my 80/20 roof rack.


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I drilled the hole, deburred the edges and masked it off for some paint and installed the DIYvan cable access.

.
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I ran the power cable via a 12 to 24 step up converter. The Mini can run on 12 volts, but this will make sure there is no problem with voltage drop.
After the initial check out in the driveway I decided it was time to move it to the roof. Everything fits like intended.


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I hooked up the RJ45 cable to the Lan4 port of the router. Currently the Lan4 port is configured as another Wan port. This gives me three possible sources for internet connectivity, Wi-Fi Wan, Cellular Connectivity and StarLink. Here is a shot of all three being seen on my router dashboard.

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The Primary source is my home Wi-Fi, I could use it for any available Wi-Fi hotspot if needed. The second source is my cellular network via the Insty-connect antenna. And finally, the third is the Starlink mini. I can easily slide these around to change which has the higher priority. The great feature is the seamless failover to the next priority. When I pull out my driveway and lose connectivity to my home network, it switches to my cellular network. If that drops, it moves to Starlink. The Insty Dashboard is also available as a phone app.

In review I am generally happy with the New Gen2 Insty Connect. It seems to provide all the things needed to make a very good system. You can also use Speedify with the router, to bond multiple connections. I find the Insty Connect website a little lacking, I would like to see more specifications of their product listed. I did find and use some good data from Mobile Internet Resource Center in my investigation of the product.

It should also be noted that Insty Connect also sells data plans for access Insty.Online. They have a variety of plans, including multiple networks. Their data plans are per month and can be paused for when they are not in use. I have not used this feature, so no real experience.
 
I'm new to this thread and haven't read everything but I'm very impressed with your craftsmanship. I can't imagine what a commercial builder would charge for this level of quality.

Oregon isn't that far from Sacramento, will you come build one for me?:d3:
 
I'm new to this thread and haven't read everything but I'm very impressed with your craftsmanship. I can't imagine what a commercial builder would charge for this level of quality.

Oregon isn't that far from Sacramento, will you come build one for me?:d3:

Bob, thanks for the kind words.

For anyone interested in a Starlink Mini, this Referral Link will get you a free moth of service if you meet their criteria. For the record I also will be given a free month of service if someone uses the link for purchase. Their sale price of 449.99 is over.

For anyone that might want to purchase a used Insty Connect Gen1 5G antenna and router, let me know.

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Updating or Fixing Front Console Power

I have had my Mobile Mule DVR installed for some time and it works great. When installing it, I originally was going to have it turned on when the van was running. I had a picked out an “Engine Run” soft ground signal from the High Specification Vehicle Interface Connector. Between originally installing the front console switches and implementing the engine run enable, I decided to also change the power source based on the engine run signal. The goal was to have the front controlled power come via the transit while running.

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The initial installation did not go well as the power was always on. My manual controll front switch still worked and I put the issue on the back burner as there was camping to be done and other things rose above the priority line.
I finally got around looking into the issue, and dug out the drawings above, I tracked the always on condition to be from my engine run signal. It was grounded all times. I thought maybe I has shorted out the wire. Nope, it was just bad at the High Specification Vehicle Interface Connector. Not wanting to go back into the Ford connector I decided to use my existing “Engine Run” signal that I use for my Wakespeed enable. This was already wired into a switch for my overhead console.
The original control was supposed to be a soft ground, but now it was a 12-volt signal. I had to solid ground the ground input of the relay coil and remove the power side from direct 12-volts and instead tap it into the Engine Run wire. Luckily, I only needed to run a wire from the overhead console down the windshield pillar and connect to the existing line that I had run for the previous High Specification Vehicle Interface Connector connection. I used a PosiTap at the Wakespeed switch.

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All is working great now, and though the power draw is low, it now is being powered by the transit system while driving. This enabled me to monitor the “engine run” signal in my Transit Status program. Now if the engine is running and the shore power is plugged in, I have a warning screen come up on my console screen. (this only works if there is active power to the shore power plug)

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I have to say Greg, most of this stuff is just beyond my comprehension but I read it all anyway hoping I can decipher some & gain knowledge along the way (it’s certainly interesting!)….I wouldn’t be surprised if one (or more) of the builder out there aren’t following along so they can incorporate ‘your latest and greatest’ into their build. You’re certainly a trend setter!
 
Felix,

There are a lot of people on the Transit Forum that are integrating things into Home Assistant. So definitely people thinking outside the normal box.

It also helps to be working on a newer platform. I ordered my transit with what they call the High Specification Vehicle Interface Connector.
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This gives us a easy way to tap into some of the vehicle parameters even the Can Bus if we like.
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Lighting Controller update.

I had previously installed Smart Switches from Safiery.com.
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These light and relay controllers came with two sets of switches that provided feedback on the status of the lights. The heart of the original controller was a FIBARO RGBW Controller 2, Z-Wave Plus. This should have enabled me to control the lights via other z-wave controllers. This looked relatively simple, but it was the only Z-wave device I was using, and I just kind of lost interest.

Well Shelly finally came out with their Shelly Plus RGBW PM controller that had both WIFI and Bluetooth control. I quickly checked the layouts for each device, and it looked like it would be a direct match.
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So I purchased one to try. I pulled out the Fibaro unit and added the Shelly unit. At first, I ran into some issues, while there appeared to be connectivity the buttons were not working well. I realized that the device had three working modes, RGB, RGBW and 4 light. I properly set it to light mode, giving me 4 independent switch controls.
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With that It started working perfectly. More importantly my Shelly phone app now showed up with four independent switches, giving me phone access to control my lights. I quickly went back into the house and ordered a couple of more units, as this would give me a controller for my second unit, and a spare (although I already have some ideas for using it).
 
Updating the Transit Status Program

The weather has been pretty lousy here (even by Oregon standards) so I had some time in front of the computer. So I added a few changes to my Transit Status Program. First I added a AC load monitor.

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This took some extra hardware, basically some Hall Sensors and a Phidget wireless hub.

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The next thing was add Weather Data. I send an API request to Openweather.org every hour for an update. This is based on my current GPS location.

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Dude... I so enjoy our posts. I usually read while shaking my head and laughing. That is some high level work you're doing there and you're obviously having fun with it. I agree it's important to have the temp of not only the outside, but the fridge, ceiling, sink cab, rear of the van, dash, solar cell and alternator... crazy cool. BTW - is the Transit Status Program of your design?

Mad skills there son.
 
Light Control from the Status Program update

I had put a placeholder for light control back when I did the max fan control. After updating my Safiery Smart Switches with the ShellY RGBW-PM controllers, I put this back on the to do list. It wasn't overly complicated, I will probably try and redo the access method to a different protocol in the future as it will be more efficient, and I need to learn it, or want to learn it.

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All the buttons are just for on/off, basically I toggle them. This will do 90% of what I want. I also added a slider input for the brightness level.

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And being that I now read the Transit Engine Run Status. I implemented the code that will turn off and close Maxx Fans when the engine is running, for both front and rear fans. If the fans were off when receiving the signal they will stay off when it goes away, if they were on, they will be turned back on when the signal goes away.

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Adding Solar Forecasting

Decided to add solar forecasting along with the weather. I query the data using a free API from Forecast.Solar. By providing my latitude, longitude, plane declination, plane azimuth and installed array size. I can get the forecasted available power for today and tomorrow. They provide the data in watt hours; I calculate amp hours using a constant of 14.4 for battery voltage. I currently do this by the day, although I could break it down by hour.

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As you can see the results for today and tomorrow kind of suck.
 
Transit Status Program OpenWeather Update

I added a full weather page, with weather alerts, daily and hourly forecast. I also went to OpenWeather.com and used their One Call API 3.0. I can access their server 1000 times a day, before incurring cost. At this moment I only access it when I open that page. While somewhat useful, this was more an act of learning a couple of things I hadn't done.

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This full weather page gives me eight days of forecast data and twenty-four hours of hourly data. I could do rain by the minute but decided against it.

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This also gives me access to weather alerts, so I included a weather alert warning page. This will probably be the most useful part of this update, as this data is all generated from current GPS location.

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Starlink Mount Shield Update

StrikerFab, the manufacturer of my Starlink 8020 mount came out with a Polycarbonate Shield Upgrade Kit - 8020 Starlink Mini.

  • Durable Protection: Made from high-strength polycarbonate, designed to withstand impact.
  • Weather-Resistant: Shields your Starlink Mini from extreme conditions including hail
  • Off-Road Ready: Provides extra protection from road debris, branches, and other obstacles you might encounter on rugged trails.
  • UV-Stabilized: Blocks UV and protects against sun damage, ensuring long-lasting performance.

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I took advantage of the dry weather when it showed up today, Quick and easy. Removed the 8 screws and the caps.

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Added foam pads to the bottom of the mounts.

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Reinstalled the Mini and then screwed down the polycarbonate.
 
Software Control of the Refrigerator

This is much easier than it sounds, well maybe because I already have the equipment needed to do this. I am just replacing the refrigerator thermostat (Inkbird ITC-1000) with software control.

I already use a Ruuvi temp sensor to monitor the refrigerator temp inside the van and have a couple of unused software-controlled relay outputs. The first relay controls the power to the Inkbird, if I go into software control, it disables power to the Inkbird. The other relay is hooked in parallel to the refrigerator thermostat control. I already use a Merlin II-speed control board, to set the best speed (aka power settings) for the conditions. The only thing I am controlling is the temp it turns on and off.

In testing last year, I found that I have control of the temp setpoint and differential to the tenths versus the ones. This gives me better more precise control of on and off. These can also be adjusted based on seasonality or outside ambient temps.

The other area I found is that with the Ruuvi temp sensor being a wireless connection, I am not seeing any accuracy drift that I have seen with the Inkbird controlled thermostat. I decided I would try this year, based on last years test result and my Cerbo-Transit Status uptime percentage.


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Maintenance and Security Update
I started out looking for a solution for maintaining my “Transit Status Program”. Really just wanted to have access to some logfiles and push over software changes. It is a windows platform, but I didn’t really want to pay for windows pro to get remote desk capabilities. I did settle in on RustDesk, a open-source remote access and support software. It also allows you to use self-hosted server

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I figured that my primary use was maintenance, or when the system was already attached to my local network. I found out quickly that it was so easy to set up and use, instead of running a copy of the program on my home computer, I would just remote in. One day I left my MobileMule camera system on and thought it was kind of neat to have access to the four cameras,

The problem is that the cameras are controlled by hard switches, I would be at the mercy of what camera it was on, usually the rear view,

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I decided to add some soft controlled capabilities using some hardware I had laying around.

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This arrangement allows me to keep the hard switches, for quick access while driving and still have soft access. So now I can check cameras from any location. I have also added the fifth camera for an interior view. This allows me to check on the dogs when traveling, and an enhancement in security

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RustDesk, provides access from both iPhone and Android devices also.

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A couple of Small Updates

I finally decided on where to locate the fifth camera hooked to my mobile mule DVR. I originally wanted it somewhat hidden, but in the end decided on practical. Being a big part of this was to monitor the dogs when left inside, I decided a camera was needed that I could view one of their favorite spots, the front seats. (generally tracks to how wet they got)

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this way I can view the back of the van

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or the front seats

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I also took the time to wire the monitor power to be connected to a controlled output of the MobileMule. This was always an option, but I decided it became more practical as I can take advantage of the programable shut off delay. This means the whole system stays alive when I'm filling up at the gas station. It is still controllable so I can turn off when remotely connecting to the DVR system.

While working on this I moved my Amp Research Override Switch over to the B- Pillar so it is easily accessible while exiting or entering the sliding door. This is the door that doesn't always stay in sink when camping.

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