*GRAPHIC* Cassette toilet leak - SMB interior ruined

[jamlip]

Hi all,

I'm the (formerly) happy owner of a 1999 7.3 4x4 EB-50.

During my rush last Sunday to clean out the interior after the previous week's camping adventures, I forgot to empty the waste from the cassette toilet.

I returned to the van today to finish the task. I noticed two large dried brown puddles underneath, followed by a smell that defies language acceptable for use on this board. On entering the van, I found that the toilet waste tank had split, emptying a large volume of liquified **** throughout the interior. It was absolutely impossible to breathe.

The floor has obviously absorbed this hellish faecal concoction and will need replacing, and 25 year-old fiberboard galley cabinetry has swelled and split around the base. Whilst it looks terrible, the smell is the real issue - it is absolutely satanic.

I appreciate that the only way to resolve this situation is to gut and replace the interior. I love this van and am a competent enough with a router and table saw to do a nice job (bah!), although I'd prefer an off-the-shelf solution if one is available.

So, does anyone know of anyone building replacement SMB interiors? I've seen the Econoline kit from VanLab and, whilst it looks nice, I want to keep the EB-50 layout as I need the rock-and-roll seat for my 7yo son.

Also interested to hear if anyone else has ever been down the road of rebuilding their SMB interior like this.

Off for a shower, and to burn my clothes.

 

[SMB123]

This is a lesson for all of us.

Did you use the "blue stuff" in the turlet?

Any chance at all that once the cabs are pulled out the bottoms could be salvaged with the bad wood cut out? Sounds like a monumental task but since you have a unicorn it's worth saving.

 

[jamlip]

Yeah, the 7.3, the 4x4, and now riding beautifully on and off-road - it's a keeper and worth doing right.

I used TST in the toilet, but it's academic now - absolutely the most hellish of messes.

 

[N147JK]

Man I'm sorry to hear this. We have a similar toilet in our van. I wonder if it pressurized and burst? We've learned (the hard way) to be VERY careful when opening it after a drive that involves any elevation changes.

 

[jamlip]

Yeah, I live in the desert and I think the heat didn't help. I take very good care of this van and this was easily avoidable. I feel really, really stupid.

Lid down -always- when you pull the toilet 'flush' slider back! You only make that mistake once.

 

[Twoxentrix]

It may be a longshot, but I'd check with my Insurance to see if they would cover any portion of the repairs since the issue developed from an appliance failure.
Certainly not an incident I would wish on anyone, but it's amazing where your mind goes when you become 'privy' ( ) to something like this...believe I'm going to start searching for some type of Tupperware bin which my port-a-potty would conveniently sit in (just in case), to serve as an exterior liner. That or just using a construction type trash bag it would sit in after use.
Really feel bad for you, but it serves as a warning for all that visit this Thread.

 

[1der]

Sorry to read about this mishap. I can only imagine the devastation. First, please consider adding your location info to your profile - I want to make sure I am upwind of your rig - jk

A 1999 50 layout is fully ready for replacing and since you have the skill set, tools (and lots of us to help remotely) and cabinets as templates you can do the job right this time around. Be prepared for some shocking typical SMB discoveries once you remove the cabinetry. You will end up redoing/upgrading the electrical, so count that in. I am going to add that you will end up doing insulation, too.

Take your time, remove the compromised stuff and 30 lbs of angle brackets and no-longer-holding screws. Bleach, Dawn based solutions and lots of air. Careful multiple rinsing and allowing to thoroughly dry. It is going to be those missed hidden spots that will cause the most trouble with ongoing smells. Every old piece of material will go in the trash after being used to make a template. Bag and tag the hardware and take LOTS of pictures while disassembling. Incorporate the changes you have always wanted to make and embrace this opportunity.

Re: toilets - we make it an absolute checklist item to pull the flush lever out a slight bit on our Porta Potti. This allows the tank pressure to equalize as we change elevations. Not only is tank rupture a problem but also the deformation of the seal between the bowl and tank can present as the holding tank expands and contracts if not allowed to equalize on the go.

This a GREAT reason for NOT gluing down a floor to the metal floor.

The suggestion of a catch pan is a really good one but may be hard to put into effect with space constraints. We have traveled for 20+ years w a PP and not had any burst tanks or major leaks.

 

[86Scotty]

I just clicked because it said graphic.

What a shitty deal.

This forum is chock full of SMB rebuilds. Get your mask on and dive in.

:b5:

 

[boywonder]

Reminds me of when my 94 year old mother left a pot roast in the trunk.....for about two weeks.......that car was hard to sell even though it only had 28K miles on it.

...or my college buddy in Florida who had a Burmese python die in his 1977 Nova....it was rough riding to class with him even with all the windows rolled down. ...took him weeks to find it, and I started riding my bike to class.

 

[jamlip]

Thanks for the emotional support, everyone.

I'm interested in seeing some top-class interior refits - anyone fancy sharing any standouts on here that come to mind?

Is sealed (varnished) lightweight ply still the best option for the cabinetry? I'd like to use something that doesn't swell up next time the shitter explodes.

Regarding flooring, the current (original) SMB floor seems to be a very hard wearing plastic / fabric wrapped over board and I kinda like it. Seems totally indestructible. Anyone know what it is?

I really appreciate any assistance.

 

[86Scotty]

Any plywood will swell if moisture permeates the ends so careful sealing and cabinet design are key, but most of all it is important to note how rare your failure was. I'm on lots of camper forums and have never heard once of a porta potty or cassette toilet seam splitting. Sure, some folks have had spills but your issue is exceedlingly rare.

Many SMB's here, made of particle board, still last for years with average care. It's usually the T-molded edges that start giving way and certainly bottoms of cabinet faces that are often sitting on old carpet in old vans. Especially near the doors or under a window. Once you have a small leak things get ugly fast.

The go to for most of us in cabinet builds is birch. It's light and strong and pretty easy to work with. I guess I've done 4 or more vans in stained birch ply. There are many of these builds, mine included, in the home-made/ground up build section. Some custom DIY builds, some SMB rebuilds.

Another thing that is noteworthy is that very few Sportsmobiles have cassette toilets, not that the type really matters. Most late model vans have a removable porta potty. Or is that what you meant?

In your next build I would recommend a composting or separating toilet that doesn't hold large quantities of liquid. I am currently ditching my Thetford PP for a Joolca, if it ever arrives. It has separate chambers for urine and poo and you can use it as chemical or composting. If you haven't researched this it is the mixing of the two that causes the worst smells.

Top tier builds/rebuilds?
@REF
@Pschitt
@Boywonder
@Aarcaris
@teeots
@mgmetalworks
@scalf77
@saline
@bodhi1960

I'm sure I'm forgetting lots of folks

:b5:

 

[jamlip]

Thanks so much - that list should save me some trawling time.

Right, it's not a cassette toilet - it's a removable portable type thing with a holding tank. I'll investigate the Joolca toilet. I've already seen their hot water systems - might do that, too.

Birch ply it shall be. I had a look into composite plastic sheet, but can't find anything that isn't really heavy and expensive. Also considered doing a layup in epoxy and woven fiberglass over a 1/2-inch Divinycell core. Light, but a time suck.

After I got the van, and discovered a dozen loose L-brackets floating around inside the cabinets, I glued everything using Sika construction sealant. It is flexible and wicked strong. Is there a better way of doing this on new construction?

 

[1der]

Glad you are researching options.

Lightweight - use MULTI-ply 6 to 9 layer birch - you can do can do cabinets in 3/8" and 1/2" thicknesses. There is almost no where you need 5/8" or 3/4". You will use perhaps three sheets. Ask yourself what you are really saving weight wise , plus what you will give up in interior cabinet volume by using something "exotic", not to mention cost financially.

You can use 1/16" annd 1/8" aluminum angle for joining pieces, you can use high quality glues and fasteners, there are many great ways of fastening together and to the floors/walls. Figure out how to create a flexible coupling between your cabinet banks and either the floor or wall. The van body walls and floors flex. Your cabinets need a way to accommodate that flex so they do not become a stressed component (part of the reason so many of the original SMB screws pull out) I am a fan of a floating floor that is not affixed to the metal floor. Reduces noise and thermal conduits. I hard affix the cabinets to the walls with bolted in nailers. Cabinets affix to the floating floor. VanTug makes for a reasonable insulator below the floor. Not great but at least it is closed cell so it will not absorb water.

Run all your electrical and plumbing inboard of the interior wall panels so they can be accessed/serviced without disassembling the van interior. There are plenty of ways to run these system components at the base or back of cabinets.

 

[jamlip]

Thanks Ray. I'm reading REF's build thread right now and realized how running the systems inside is just way simpler and cleaner for future access (plus no sheet metal edges to eat into anything).

I've gone from 'FFS/FML' etc to kind of excited. I'm pretty handy (did a 1000sqft house addition alone during Covid, a few car and truck engine swaps, rewired a plane etc) so I feel confident I can do a nice job of this alongside a bit of advice and hand-holding from the SMB brain trust!

 

[1der]

You are welcome.

House remodels are VERY different than the van. First, that level that was so critical in an house remodel is only good as a straight edge in a van build, lol!

Starting point, once the interior is gutted, is a fore-aft center line and getting a flat floor plane. The metal floor is arched from front to back and side to side. Spend the time getting the plywood floor "flat" and a large speed square becomes your best friend. "Plumb and level" are ALL relative to your van floor, not Earth!

 

[jamlip]

This is the kind of insight I came here for, thanks!

 

[N147JK]

Birch ply it shall be. I had a look into composite plastic sheet, but can't find anything that isn't really heavy and expensive.

Another benefit of hardwood plywood is aesthetics. Ours is an all-wood, oak interior and we love it. Instead of cold plastic, you will be surrounded by warm wood and you will feel it just sitting there inside. One of the most enjoyed parts of our van.

 

[jamlip]

Thanks John. Sounds nice - do you have any pictures?

Hope you're still enjoying that RV-4.

 

[vandiesel]

I did a build thread on mine jamlip. It should be easy to find with search by. I b basically made my own "50" layout with some twists. Happy to help you walk through it.

 

[86Scotty]

Lightweight - use MULTI-ply 6 to 9 layer birch - you can do can do cabinets in 3/8" and 1/2" thicknesses. There is almost no where you need 5/8" or 3/4". You will use perhaps three sheets. Ask yourself what you are really saving weight wise , plus what you will give up in interior cabinet volume by using something "exotic", not to mention cost financially.

Unless you happen to like 3/4". It's easy to find, work with and T-mold. And my vans always scale out less than comparably equipped Prevhost buses.

The current one is even below GVWR! Imagine that for a camper van!

:d3: