Help! Engine won’t turn off

vandiesel

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2009
Posts
1,309
Location
Portland, OR
I’m on my way to Moab in e350 6.0. Stopped for lunch 100 miles out of Ogden with a full tank for lunch. Engine turned off but ignition did not. I heard electric vacuum pump running and went to turn off ignition and on. Engine started and would not turn off. Key comes out. Starter won’t engage. Good news it’s running and I’ve eaten. Has anyone had this happen and do I need a locksmith or dealer?
 
Is it still running? Or were you able to get it to shut off?

Sounds like ignition has a broken return spring, or maybe the keyway stripped out.. It’s not too hard to change the entire ignition.. You can also remove the ignition cylinder and try to rotate the ignition internals with a flathead screwdriver. Basically, turn the key to ON, find the hole in the bottom of the column shroud, and stick something skinny in the hole like a long #1 Philips screwdriver. Or a mechanic’s pick. Push hard and that should release the cylinder allowing you to pull it out. This is step one for the ignition replacement as well, except to replace the ignition the shroud needs to come all the way off.
 
I’m at the Ford dealer and I remove the ignition. I also removed the switch down below on the column. The linkage in the ignition cylinder are working fine. If I move the rod on the ignition switch down below in any positions it doesn’t turn the rig off, nor does it change anything. On top of that my turbo has begin to stick, so I’ve lost power.
 
That’s not good. With the ignition functioning, and losing an injector, I’m suspecting a melted wire harness now…. Fingers crossed it’s those 2 faults are just coincidental though!
 
Update. Dealer says no compression on cylinder 8, no blow by and valve train looks fine from above. They also don’t think it’s the bottom end. What gives. I need to get it home from SLC. Motor built to the hilt by Orange County
 
Can anyone recommend a custom shop to swap godzilla motor with 10speed into my van? Need a capable custom builder.
 
Been talking to him. I have another great option as well. It’s a sales job. I don’t want to pay for someone to learn all of it. Michael would be the best.
 
Update. Dealer says no compression on cylinder 8, no blow by and valve train looks fine from above. They also don’t think it’s the bottom end. What gives. I need to get it home from SLC. Motor built to the hilt by Orange County

I’ll say it - that $uck$
I’m probably out of my element here; I don’t understand how you can achieve”no compression” if the valves are seating and no blow by??? Only other thing that would come to mind is head gasket issue, but I would assume they checked that as well. Could you get the same result from a bad glow plug or injector??? I’m rooting for something relatively simple, and interested to hear what the cause turns out to be.
 
Wishing you - sending GOOD THOUGHTS AND GOOD KARMA - gotta be a good light at the end of this tunnel for you !
 
Final verdict burnt exhaust valve. Driving it home on 7 with injector 8 unplugged. Wish me luck. Will start another thread on repair or swap. This engine and how it was built was a big reason I jumped on this van back in 2017. Cryogenic, double whammy throw down and I still get this. My mechanic alway said when not if on a 6.0.
 
Oh and the engine not turning off with the key was my head unit replacement install very recently where the house to chassis battery switch was misplaced on the PCM wire.
 

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