How much lift do I have?

[Larry Dog]

Does anyone know how much lift sportsmobile put on there 2002 E-350 I am trying to order new springs for the rear and can't figure out how much lift I need. I just replaced my stock coils and gained 1"

 

[boywonder]

Your question is a bit vague......we need a little more info....

You replaced your front coil springs? Do you have a Quigley 4WD conversion?

Do you have blocks under the rear leafs?

Are you trying to raise the rear up 1" to match the front?

Ordering Deavers?

 

[Larry Dog]

OK, I was hoping someone would bite. Glad it's you. I have a Quigly conversion with 3.5" blocks at the rear. After reading threads on here I decided to switch the front coils to Moog CC880S. That put me 1" higher in front then before. I am at 41.5" ground to top of arch on the fender well. My rear springs were sagging bad already 38.5" to fender. Alcan is going to make me some springs but wants to know what lift I want. My van looks like one of your so cal low riders right now.

 

[Steve C]

Maybe someone will correct me, but I’m pretty sure that Quigley just utilized blocks on the rear axles to gain lift during the conversion process. Therefore your 3 1/2” blocks plus your new front 1” lift “should” dictate you need a 4 1/2” lift in the back?

 

[boywonder]

Maybe someone will correct me, but I’m pretty sure that Quigley just utilized blocks on the rear axles to gain lift during the conversion process. Therefore your 3 1/2” blocks plus your new front 1” lift “should” dictate you need a 4 1/2” lift in the back?

Exactly....

Doing a little math....If we assume that when it rolled off the lot at Quigley it was level front and rear, then you had roughly a 3.5" lift. Lots of lifted E-series seem to be a little lower in the rear, but lets assume level. You just added 1" in front so now you need 4.5" total.

But using your new measurements the rear has sagged 2" from when it rolled off the lot 40.5"-38.5"=2". Using these numbers you need 3.5" (blocks) + 2" (sag) + 1" (new springs)=6"

I'm pretty sure you don't want 6" in the rear....

I would weigh the van (F+R), then F then R, give Alcan those numbers and ask for 4.5" lift. If its not enough you could put small lift blocks back there. ...Not sure how you remedy too much lift .....re-arching perhaps.

 

[REF]

Yes, I makes sense to say you need a 4 1/2” lift in the back. I can’t recall the details Deaver needs to determine the ride height for their springs, I do remember they wanted front/back weight and I took some measurements from various points, that being said, fender wells are not a good reference point as the openings are different front/back. I would get specific details from Alcan on what measurements they need, if any, or the best way to determine what spring lift is needed.
But….your best point of reference would be from ground to pinch weld, park on a level surface(bring a level), measure ground to pinch welds behind front tires and in front of rear tires, take the difference and add the height of your current rear lift blocks, that should get you the number needed.
Report back, I’ll be doing this sometime this summer to have Alcan make me a new set to replace my tired old Deavers. Good luck!

 

[Larry Dog]

Thanks

OK gentlemen, Thank you very much for your wealth of knowledge. After used the pinch weld measurement I guess my rear actually only had a 1/2" sag. I guess it just looked bad because of the fender wells. I am starting to wonder if my front coil springs sagged also. I only had 1 3/4" from the bump stop to the frame.

 

[boywonder]

I only had 1 3/4" from the bump stop to the frame.

...pretty much like the rest of us 4WD E-series owners......

 

[86Scotty]

...pretty much like the rest of us 4WD E-series owners......

Yep, that's normal Quigley. Not much travel. Your factory Q front springs were probably fine. They suck from the start, Lol.

 

[Larry Dog]

OK I think I will shoot for 4 1/2" with my rear springs. After reading all you guys' advice that seems like a safe bet. I am doing a full brake job, new hubs, rain gutter repair, and roof rubber rivet replacement. I am sure one of you guys has already figured this out, but I used Binder rivets for my top rubber, and they don't protrude at all, so I have no need for protective tape on the roof anymore. I will let you guys know how my springs work out. Thanks, again!

 

[Ramjet-SMB]

I'm a little late to the party but just to add- my '99 Quigley spec'd a 3-1/2" lift. Always looked a tad higher than level on the front to me. Anyway, I look forward to the other two cans of worms you have planned-brakes (don't forget the wheel bearings) and roof gutters (lots of hype there).

 

[Larry Dog]

I just got my Frozen rotors and Warn hubs in today. Now that the doc pulled the metal out of my eye "from grinding rust" I can get back on it.

 

[Ramjet-SMB]

I just got my Frozen rotors and Warn hubs in today. Now that the doc pulled the metal out of my eye "from grinding rust" I can get back on it.

Ouch! As if the pain of Frozen Rotors price wasn't enough (I have them on mine too). Heal well!

 

[hbmarcus]

Quigley conversion with no rear block.

Just wondering if anyone can tell me if you could upgrade to a 4" lift leaf spring pack when ordering a Quigley. I have a 2003 E350 with 110K, V10 and 4.10 which was ordered from a So Cal Ford dealer with Quigley conversion in 2003. Original owner until 90K+. I have had the van for a few years and obviously the rear leafs aren't a new addition. It rides level and the rear is pretty plush. If it was an option does anyone know who Quigley sourced the leaf packs from or did they produce their own?

 

[Steve C]

hbmarcus, Quigley left the rear leaf springs stock. All they did was put a 3 1/2” block in and called it good. That’s why many SMB owners have gone out and replaced the entire leaf spring packs with replacements. Let’s them pull out the blocks and hopefully gain a progressive rate spring.