Leaking where solar wires go through penthouse roof

[geoffff]

My old Sportsmobile has been getting mold on the penthouse top interior canvas over the past year, so apparently moisture has been getting in.

I took a close look at the roof today, and I see this. :a6:

Apparently the solar wires go through the roof and the gap is (was) sealed by some kind of soft rubbery translucent material, that now easily comes apart in my hands.

What is this stuff? Silicone sealer?

What should I seal this hole with? I read that if it was silicone sealer, I can't switch to any other product now, or it won't stick. (Or can I sand all the residue off?)



Thanks for any advice!
-- Geoff

 

[N147JK]

Yeah that's not a good way to go. Sealants that "dry" or cure are meant to be used between materials, not on top. You may want to pull the cables out, separate them, and use cable glands. These seal mechanically (no liquid sealant involved) and are usually leak-proof for as long as they are installed.

 

[1der]

These work very well. Lap sealant on bottom flange plus drill a few holes for screws to hold it down. E-trailer has a one with screw holes:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...fGuYA7Ppw_NL1WyZRJHGVpM9-FnI1QFhoCl-EQAvD_BwE

Or this one:


https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-W...f9e371730dea31fae85bfb6ecfe&gad_source=1&th=1

 

[Scalf77]

Here are a couple of solar entry devices I use.

Solar Entry Puck from DIYvan.com. This is a very low profile solution.

Another favorite is Scanstrut DS-HD6-BLK Horizontal Double Cable Seal. This not quite as low profile, but does provide easier access if needed.

Here is a picture of the Solar Entry Puck installed on my van.

 

[1der]

I like that ScanStrut unit!!

 

[geoffff]

Thanks everyone for advice on how to do it the right way.

I am usually a big fan of doing it the right way.


But, sadly, my van is on its last legs these days. I'm just trying to get some more local easy camping done this summer.



I don't think I will take the time to take the roof/ceiling apart to access these wires. I think for now I will put another big glob of silicone there (assuming that's what Sportsmobile used 20 years ago when my van was new).

 

[ScrapIron]

You can get marine grade cable glands that do not require pulling wires out or dismantling anything. https://defender.com/en_us/seaview-cable-gland-abs-plastic

 

[geoffff]

Nice, thanks!!

 

[Highplainsdrifter74]

I used glob on mine 5yrs ago. 3M marine 5200 I think ? Still holding. I like these lap/pucks though. Didn't know they exisited? Much nicer and cleaner.

 

[bobthecow]

I really like Scanstrut. I've used their seals for other things, but just picked up one of their horizontal entry seals for when I redo my solar:

https://www.scanstrut.com/rv/cable-seal/horizontal

 

[moorefc]

If they used silicone, then the caulk of choice would be the same, due to adhesion issues with anything else.....


On another question you had re screen repair, I have had good luck with Locktite Vinyl fabric plasic Adhesive. You can use scotch tape as backing and the adhesive leaves a small clearish film to bond the existing fibers....

 

[dogtubs]

The

These work very well. Lap sealant on bottom flange plus drill a few holes for screws to hold it down. E-trailer has a one with screw holes:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...fGuYA7Ppw_NL1WyZRJHGVpM9-FnI1QFhoCl-EQAvD_BwE

Or this one:
View attachment 916418

Amazon.com

How do you route the wires once they are through the roof to the inside? Seems like there will need to be slack for the top to go up and down.

 

[1der]

Typical SMB routing of the solar wiring from outside on a pop top - usually in the area around the driver side front corner.

Wires pass through a hole made (and sealed) in the fiberglass top a couple of inches outboard of the canvas. The wires are looped over (not thru) the canvas very near the driver side front corner and then led down along side the black split loom that has the wiring for ceiling lights, etc. The solar wires can be run inside the existing split loom if there is room, or loosely zip tied to the existing split loom. A slight bit of slack is left (top up) in the wires running down to the stock roof level for the rest of the run to the solar controller location.

When the top comes down, the wires loop themselves along with the split loom.

 

[dogtubs]

Got it! Thanks!