new engine for 2004 6.0 diesel

Berta-SMB

Advanced Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Posts
35
Location
Boise, Idaho
Hi All,

Biggie my 2004 EB50 needs a new engine. It's at 156K miles. I have 3 estimates from 30-40K.
Do I go for a Ford stock engine, or a studded long block, or have the replacement engine bullet proofed? Will a fresh new engine probably be fine without bullet proofing? I'm in Boise Idaho. It's in the shop now and will need to be towed.

Thanks!
 

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The $30 to $40 grand seems high to me. Granted I replaced my 6-0 with a 'NEW' engine (not a remanufactured) back in 2015 for $32k. I chose a dealership since the warranty would be good across the country, private builds normally have to be brought back to them - which would prove a huge obstacle when you're 500, 1000, 2000 miles away!

The dealership I had it done at (just outside of Napa, Ca) had several Bullet Proof Diesel staff working with them & training their mechanics at the time, So, I took advantage of the opportunity and had the new engine completely bullet proofed, along with replacing everything in the engine bay (all hoses as well). The Dealership engine replacement involved reattaching all the others stuff as well, so when we bought all new components they didn't charge me for installation of almost 80% of the parts since the engine was out.
When you finally make your decision, I would inquire to see if you're able to get the same commitment - I saved quite a bit of money!

Member ShuttlePilot has a comprehensive list outlining a thorough Bullet Proofing which I suggest you review:
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/forums/f33/6-0l-engine-bulletproofing-25269.html

The extras I had done (all included in the $32k price):
Engine was outfitted with all the Bullet proofing suggestions including the head studs, Aluminum radiator, tension pully, degas bottle, new steering box, new Turbo & all the pipes, OEM Trans cooler, Intercooler, water pump & thermostat, vacuum canister, all belts & hoses, a slew of sensors, fuel pump & regulator, go-plug harness, injector harness, trans harness and FICM, EGR cooler & valve, and more!- any of these available in BPD brand was purchased from them & installed on the new build.

The mistakes I made:
I didn't replace the Alternator (High output and they said it looked recent) - went out on me about 6 days after I picked up the van!
Blew the seams out of the first 2 aluminum radiators, and finally went with a Mishimoto Aluminum radiator...highly suggest you also install the Mishimoto low temp thermostat (it allows the engine to run much cooler than the OEM - a real benefit in controlling high temps for these heavy vans)
I didn't replace the Engine wire harness - they said it was in really good shape, but despite that I still ended out with problems several years later.
 
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Oh man, I would be reaching out to member vandiesel to get some out on a 7.3L Godzilla gas swap if faced w 6.0 replacement. He has his thread Go Go Godzilla going here. His mechanic is really good and will have lots of engine knowledge and will have a good database to draw on for the next swap.

I think $$ wise you are in the realm of the cost of that swap and would end up with one heck of a power plant and transmission.

Getting the van to Portland from Boise is not too bad
 
There's no way I would do any other replacement engine that doesn't have headstuds.

In order of preference my suggestion would be:

1. Ashville or Kill Devil
2. Jasper
3. Ford reman

Personally, I wouldn't even touch #3 but the reason I went with Jasper was availability and it comes with headstuds. My rig was also stuck in Idaho so it was either flatbed it back to AZ or have the diesel guy I stumbled on stick in a Jasper. All the other stuff TwoXentrix describes is good info to consider and if possible I'd also stick a new engine wiring harness in there while doing the swap.
 
If you want to stick with the 6.0 Berta my old engine is a great candidate. I had a stuck injector melt a piston. My block and heads were cryogenically treated and built by Bud's diesel in Orange co. I'm not saying Rob would do it but his entire business is keeping diesel fords on the road and the 6.0 keeps him plenty busy. My block just needs a sleeve on 1 piston and he could build it back for WAAAAAY less than the 30k. I'm happy to discuss with you over the phone or speak with Rob on your behalf. Send me an IM if you want to talk. -Brad
 
My block just needs a sleeve on 1 piston and he could build it back for WAAAAAY less than the 30k. I'm happy to discuss with you over the phone or speak with Rob on your behalf. Send me an IM if you want to talk. -Brad

^^^This sounds like a real opportunity (even when you factor in shipping), That’s a call I’d make!
 
Wow 30-40K?!?!

Thats Cummins swap, sell it for $10k blown up to someone willing to wrench and buy a new rig for 50k, or 2nd, 3rd, 4th opinion time!

As a fellow 6.0 van owner, if mine pops its getting a Common Rail Cummins swap for that kind of coin. Or a junkyard 6.0 and run it till it pops again.

Would love to see a parts and labor breakdown of the $40k engine swap considering a Kill Devil Diesel complete engine is $25k and thats a top tier engine. Its not another $15k in labor to swap like-for-like. Sounds like you are getting taken for a ride.


https://killdevildiesel.com/collect...gine-ready-to-run?_pos=3&_fid=4a2015800&_ss=c
 
Wow 30-40K?!?!

Thats Cummins swap, sell it for $10k blown up to someone willing to wrench and buy a new rig for 50k, or 2nd, 3rd, 4th opinion time!

As a fellow 6.0 van owner, if mine pops its getting a Common Rail Cummins swap for that kind of coin. Or a junkyard 6.0 and run it till it pops again.

Would love to see a parts and labor breakdown of the $40k engine swap considering a Kill Devil Diesel complete engine is $25k and thats a top tier engine. Its not another $15k in labor to swap like-for-like. Sounds like you are getting taken for a ride.


https://killdevildiesel.com/collect...gine-ready-to-run?_pos=3&_fid=4a2015800&_ss=c

Wow, that's gone up quite a bit. Still, if it were me I'd go with the $12k long block and re-use all the top endstuff of the old motor. Asheville is a bit cheaper but definitely a step up from a Jasper.
 
Thanks everyone!!! I shopped around I think I found the right mechanic to will install a fresh running engine for a less than the 1st quotes. I really appreciate everyone’s help.
 
Well thats good! Make sure to do all the PMs on this engine while its out - stud it, delete it, if its not brandy brand new check the cam and lifters.
 

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