New start batteries but van no electrical power

[Ocsmb]

2006 ford e350 6.0
New pair of agm start batteries, installed 2 months ago. Almost a daily driver. No issues with starting and driving until now.

Just Drove up from LA to mammoth no issues. Stopped for food once. Gas another time on the way up. Didn’t notice any issues.

Pulled into mammoth and stopped for food. Jumped back in the van and no electrical power other than Flickering cluster. Won’t start. Barely enough power to light up map lights.

Flipped the blue sea switch to Connect house battery with start battery. Could see the battery gauge on the cluster rise about 1/4 way up from the bottom. Hooked up a NOCO jump stater to the positive post and chassis ground aft of the start battery on the frame, passenger side. The battery gauge on the cluster rose to the 1/2 way mark, started the van and off we went to our hotel. No issues driving those 2 miles.

Today I jump back in the van. Same issue. No electrical power. Not even enough power to remote unlock the doors.

Hooked up a Noco tender to the start batteries (I connected a Noco quick disconnect from one of the start batteries terminals when I installed the new batteries last month) and the tender shows the batteries are fully charged.

We need to get back to LA for kids school and work for us. Debating a tow and renting a car.

Please advise on what you think it might be.

Thanks in advance

 

[marret]

Alternator? Suggest you check all the connections at the battery, starter, and alternator. I know you said the batteries are 2 months old, so I would check the alternator output while running with a multimeter. If good, then load test the batteries. The batteries could be bad, or they are low due to a bad alternator. Bad cable connections could be a problem as well.

 

[KTMRIDER-SMB]

I would start with alternator also. Check the plugs going in and into the wiring harness and follow the harness to see if it maybe got baked somewhere. Those 6.0s can have bad wiring harnesses after years. Could just be the alternator gave out as well. From symptoms that is where I would start could be as simple as something came unplugged, or loose.

When it does run does the voltmeter go up or no? I wouldn’t run it much without good output, don’t the FCIMs need good voltage? I haven’t had a 6.0 but have heard people discussing it.

Rent a car and get the family home so you are not in the doghouse, then refocus on the van. Sorry, I’ve been in a similar situation and it isn’t fun.

 

[1der]

In addition to alternator check -

First thing :
Do you have a voltage meter?
What is battery voltage at the battery terminals which in a 6.0 is a bear to get to since they are on the frame.

I would drop those battery holders down and check the connections to the battery terminals.

Where is the NOCO Quick Connector? Your NOCO is telling you batteries are full, likely because the connection is just making contact to read 12 volts but not good enough to provide connection to rest of van system.

AND as KTMRIDER saidI would NOT run that 6.0 with a bad electrical system.

Get the batteries dropped.

 

[Ocsmb]

Don’t have a multimeter on me. I’ll add that to the road trip list of tools to bring.

Could it also be the isolator? I know smb installed those sure power ones.

Anyone have success calling a tow service from mammoth for their 4x4 10k# van?

 

[Ocsmb]

Yeah I just changed those batteries recently and it was a beast to do with 2 floor jacks and thick wood blocks. don’t have those with me on the road.

 

[Ocsmb]

Noco quick connect is on the battery terminal of the aft battery

In addition to alternator check -

First thing :
Do you have a voltage meter?
What is battery voltage at the battery terminals which in a 6.0 is a bear to get to since they are on the frame.

I would drop those battery holders down and check the connections to the battery terminals.

Where is the NOCO Quick Connector? Your NOCO is telling you batteries are full, likely because the connection is just making contact to read 12 volts but not good enough to provide connection to rest of van system.

AND as KTMRIDER saidI would NOT run that 6.0 with a bad electrical system.

Get the batteries dropped.

 

[1der]

Next point of check if the engine is running - what is the reading on your voltage gauge? If it is reading 13.5 to 14.5 volts then the alternator is probably okay and the issue is likely a connector that is bad and not flowing the charging current into the batteries.

Who installed the batteries?

 

[Ocsmb]

Next point of check if the engine is running - what is the reading on your voltage gauge? If it is reading 13.5 to 14.5 volts then the alternator is probably okay and the issue is likely a connector that is bad and not flowing the charging current into the batteries.

Who installed the batteries?

I did.

Got some daylight now. I’ll start poking around the areas you all suggested

 

[1der]

I did.

Got some daylight now. I’ll start poking around the areas you all suggested

See if the Napa store or someone there has a voltage meter you can buy/borrow. That is needed to troubleshoot this.

Will the rig start with the NOCO this morning?

I just tried to call you but your phone went to voicemail right away.

 

[Twoxentrix]

Anyone have success calling a tow service from mammoth for their 4x4 10k# van?

I’ve had to have my Van towed 3 times, and 2 of the 3 they sent the wrong sized truck. So make it a point to reiterate the weight and length (include it’s a lifted 4x4), AND make sure you send them a picture of it.
I ended out waiting 2 additional hours on one of the Tow’s and a little over 4hrs additional for the other (I was 97 miles outside of Salt Lake, so it already took the first driver 90 minutes just to get to me and realize he was undersized… then they had to locate a larger flatbed to make the trip to me which took 4hrs to accomplish).

 

[Ocsmb]

Turns out it was poor terminal connection.

Dropped the batteries cleaned them the best I could with a shop towel. Reconnected all of the battery terminals for both batteries and also the ground to the chassis. She started right up. Showing 14 V on the scan gauge.

When I get back in town, I’m definitely changing the cables as well.

Thank you for everyone’s help and suggestion and especially Ray for reaching out and giving me both moral support and technical support lol

 

[1der]

:b5: You are welcome.

the batteries will like the charge from the drive back home.

Suggestion: when you get home, connect up a good quality battery charger to the jumper post and ground a let charge for a couple of days. The batteries were receiving very marginal charge from the alternator got most of this time. A couple of days on a three stage 10A to 15A capable charger (not a 2A trickle/maintainer) would be good for the batteries' longevity.

If you have shore power based charger and a bi-directional isolator that could be use,as an alternative, but not quite as good as the direct connected charger.

Have a fun day on the slopes and safe drive back down 395. :d8:

 

[marret]

Welcome.

Excellent, glad to hear it was something simple. Thanks for following up.

 

[Ocsmb]

:b5: You are welcome.

the batteries will like the charge from the drive back home.

Suggestion: when you get home, connect up a good quality battery charger to the jumper post and ground a let charge for a couple of days. The batteries were receiving very marginal charge from the alternator got most of this time. A couple of days on a three stage 10A to 15A capable charger (not a 2A trickle/maintainer) would be good for the batteries' longevity.

If you have shore power based charger and a bi-directional isolator that could be use,as an alternative, but not quite as good as the direct connected charger.

Have a fun day on the slopes and safe drive back down 395. :d8:

Thanks Ray. Great suggestion. I do have a decent Noco tender.


Also was able to squeeze in some runs this afternoon.

 

[KTMRIDER-SMB]

Good job tracking that down. Glad it wasn’t anything more serious.

 

[moorefc]

When reconnecting the batteries use grease, etc on the terminals and connectors so they don't oxidize, which sounds like your problem. Wire brush and or fine sandpaper after neutralizing with baking soda prep....
Lots of info on internet and in auto stores on that...
You probably don't need to replace the cables, just inspect and fix ends....
Get a multimeter, and if not familiar learn how to use it, very handy tool!

 

[Glenn P.]

Those terminals look terrible! I replaced all my battery cables when I upgraded to a higher amp alternator and I always use a product called NO-OX-ID on all connections at the batteries, alternator, starter and grounds. Seems to work well on my 4x4 pickups and van that see regular off-road use.

 

[Ocsmb]

Those terminals look terrible! I replaced all my battery cables when I upgraded to a higher amp alternator and I always use a product called NO-OX-ID on all connections at the batteries, alternator, starter and grounds. Seems to work well on my 4x4 pickups and van that see regular off-road use.

That’s the grease I got. Tapatio hooked me up with his shopping list from when he redid his cables

 

[Tapatio]

NO-OX-ID for the win. I haven't found anything better for keeping moisture and oxidation off of electrical components and anything else that rusts. It's thicker than dialectric grease and lasts longer.

Amazon Link